History of Camp County Viticulture

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History of Camp County Viticulture

Running Head: HISTORY OF CAMP COUNTY VITICULTURE

History of the

Viticulture Industry in Camp County,

Texas

Phillip A. Jones

Texas A&M University

Texarkana

Texan’s have many reasons to be proud of their state. One source of pride is the viticulture industry. Texas wines win awards and compete with the best the world offers, such as Jacob’s Creek from southern Australia, winner of three Silver Medals in 2007, or Barefoot Cellars of Napa, California which proudly mention on their bottles, that they won twenty plus awards since 2005. Table grapes are also continually being studied and tested for viability as a production crop for Texas. Another reason of pride is the ability of some Texans to buck trends, go against the grain and succeed when conventional wisdom says it cannot be done. Camp County, located in the northern half of east Texas, has three such entities, producing grapes. Their historic contributions to an increasing Texas viticulture industry are waiting to be told. This is a modest attempt to do just that.

East Texas as a region is considered “grape disease territory,” and Camp County is located wholly within this region (McEachern, 2003). Diseases fatal or near fatal to grapes prevalent in Camp County are Black Rot, a fungal disease, and Pierce’s Disease, which is bacterial in nature (McEachern, 2003, Burns, 2004). Because of the prevalence of these diseases, the common practice for wineries located in the east Texas region is to bottle wine from grapes grown in other regions of the state or nation. A good example of this is another recent startup in East Texas, LouViney Vineyard and Winery located in Wood County (Marshall, 2007, pp.203-205). One vineyard, Headwaters Farm and two wineries, Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards and St. Rose Vineyard & Winery are attempting to reverse that trend.

Los Pinos Ranch has created a “Texas Niche” in Camp County (East Texas Journal, 2005). The vineyard grows varieties of vinifera grapes, and produces and bottles its own wine, with a present production level of 5,000 cases annually (Lankford, 2007). The self-promotion efforts of this vineyard have been noted and are creating increasing interest about viticulture in East Texas. There are many varieties of vinifera grapes and these cultivars are what the majority of the Texas viticulture industry concentrates on growing. This fact is shown by the time and effort spent on cultivar trial plantings and constant testing (Lipe, Davenport, 2004). These continual trials support an industry response guided towards wine production as opposed to table grapes. St. Rose Vineyard & Winery, nee Guerra Vineyard & Winery has taken a completely different track, with increasing recognition outside of self-promotion. They are producing award-winning wine from the Muscadine grape (Siegel, 2007).

A word about Muscadine grapes. Long considered unsuitable for wine production, Muscadine grapes have been modernized and improved through extensive breeding programs located at Universities in Georgia, Florida, North Carolina, and South Carolina (Hoffman, 2005). Hoffman also mentions they are resistant to many of the diseases that affect vinifera cultivars, and have great potential in the Texas Market (2005). These two wineries are ignoring conventional wisdom that grapes, which will make quality wines, cannot grow in East Texas. Each one is contributing to Texas viticulture using two of the six “types” of grape grown in Texas. These types are Vitis vinifera, French X American hybrids, American varieties, Muscadines [Vitis rotundifolia], rootstocks, and natives (McEachern, 2003). Native varieties and American varieties may be considered the same thing to laymen’, however, the two are as distinctly different as a housecat and a tiger, same Genus, different species. These differences include fruit size, skin thickness, bunching characteristics, and leaf shape. In order to give the story of Los Pinos, St. Rose, and Headwaters Farm vineyards their true perspective, a general overview of the viticulture industry’s checkered past in Texas is needed.

McEachern contends “Grapes have grown naturally along rivers and streams in Texas for thousands of years” (2003). While others claim that viticulture in Texas is only three centuries old and was introduced by European settlers, especially Franciscan monks (Handbook of Texas, 2001). Anthropologists and Historians can conceive that the earliest tribes of man in Texas did realize grapes were, at the least a food source, and took steps to protect the vines.[*] This, in the purest theoretical sense of viticulture constitutes viticulture by this author’s standard. However the traditional cultivated vineyard must be credited to “Franciscans who in 1682 established a mission at Ysleta … near El Paso” (Handbook, 2001, McEachern, 2003). Texas Wine Ambassador Program, or T.W.A.P., helps those interested in Texas viticulture history by dividing it into five “eras” the time before prohibition (pre 1919), the time following prohibition (post 1933), and the final three eras beginning in the early 1970’s (T.W.A.P., 2007). These final three eras break down to approximately the early 1970’s, when interest was expanding, the rapid expansion of the 1980’s where production increased exponentially, and post 1980’s (Handbook, 2001).

The time before prohibition gave viticulture one of its greatest minds. Thomas V. Munson of Denison Texas catalogued the 1,000 varieties of grape native to North America and Texas between 1880 and 1910 (Handbook, 2001 McEachern, 2003). He established a nursery in Denison, which allowed him to propagate and ship grapevines throughout the South (McEachern, 2003). It was at this nursery where Wagner credits him with the discovery of one of the best “native” species for wine making, the Catawba (1933, p. 50). Chemistry of Winemaking even cites him in many chapters determining which grapes make good “native American” wines (Webb, et al, 1974). Muscadines were not considered as suitable for wine production. Wagner also notes that Munson himself “admitted that out of the 75,000 seedlings which he grew, not more than 100 could be looked upon as worth perpetuating” (1933, p. 67).

It was during the early 1900’s some progress in the viticulture industry was made as small wineries were sprinkled around Texas, such as Fredericksburg, Brenham, and El Paso (Handbook, 2001). Munson undoubtedly helped these wineries either through the provision of stock, or the knowledge gleaned from his research. Prohibition effectively ended commercial viticulture in Texas with only Val Verde Winery surviving (McEachern, 2003). Between the end of Prohibition in 1933 and the late 1960’s there was little interest in commercial viticulture.

The general public’s revived interest in wine starting in the late 1960’s ended the practice of viticulture mainly conducted by small growers for home or local consumption (Handbook, 2001). The tale of Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards, St. Rose Vineyards, and Headwaters Farm starts in the later half of this revival, in fact not until after the turn of the century. However, disease and climate are such limiting factors for viticulture in Texas that one more aside from their story is required to explain the effects of both and provide some insight into why Los Pinos, St. Rose, and Headwaters Farm are defying historical norms.

It was during the time of little interest in viticulture that extensive trial plantings conducted by the Texas A&M University Extension service helped to delineate regions and viability of grape species for commercial production (McEachern, 2003). The Texas Winery Guide or T.W.G. divides the state into four distinct regions: central, north, southeast, and west (2007). McEachern further divides the regions into the South Plains, Far west, Hill country, West Cross timber, East, and South (2003). These trials identified the prevalent climate and disease issues that have to be addressed by viticulturists throughout Texas. East Texas, where Camp County is located, is in the North region or the East region depending on which authority cited (T.W.G., 2007, McEachern, 2003). Specific disease’s affecting Camp County have already been addressed, those being Black Rot and Pierces Disease, which makes cold hardiness a major climatic concern, of many for both of these two vineyards in Camp County. Cold hardiness is an issue because some varieties of grapes do not do well when the temperature goes below freezing.

Pierces’s Disease, a major factor in Camp County, is extremely hazardous to vinifera cultivars. The disease can completely destroy a vineyard causing “grape clusters to shrivel and the stem of the vine to grow stunted and misshapen” (Burns, 2004). It is such a problem and threat to the viticulture industry that numerous “multi-institution interdisciplinary” programs are working on ways to manage Pierce’s (Hellman, 2006). One of these is a DNA study conducted to fight Pierce’s in the Texas hill country region (Burns 2004). Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards is involved in assisting researchers of this disease (Sneed, 2008). Armed with this necessary information, Camp County Texas viticultural history can now be told.

Camp County and Precinct’s with Alcohol sale’s Status

Camp County Texas was formed out of Upshur County on April 6, 1874 by an act of the Texas Legislature. (Spencer, 1974, p. ix) For all of its existence it has been primarily agrarian and largely rural. The county is best known as the birthplace and headquarters of Pilgrim’s Pride, the largest poultry producer in the United States. It has also been a “DRY” county, meaning a total ban on alcohol, until the voters of the third precinct voted themselves “WET” in 1978 (CNTY CT Minutes Vol. 10, p. 602). This distinction is important as all the vineyards and wineries are located in the remaining three “DRY” precincts.

The growing of sustenance crops for their own families and a very few cash crops was the focus of agriculture in the early years of the county. These early cash crops were cotton, sweet potatoes, and pecans (Spencer, 1974, 135-137). The copy of the United States Agriculture Census for 1880, stored in the records of Camp County’s Faye McMinn Genealogical Research Center, lists by precinct the farmers and ranchers of Camp County.

Vineyard Locations

On this form there is a column for listing the number of acres planted in vineyard. While most sections are illegible, the ones clear enough to read show that no vineyards, commercial or private, were noted then. Evidence of viticulture activity is not found in the United States Agricultural Census until the year 1987 (Ag Census, 1987). In that year there is recorded a total of three farms in Camp County with a total of seventy-two vines of bearing age. In 1997 the number of farms had increased by one, Guerra Vineyard, to four and the data on number of bearing plants is withheld to protect individual farms. This is not an auspicious start. The growing of grapes for other than home consumption was likely not considered by farmers busy working to feed themselves and their families. Viticulture as a business was non-existent. Still, attempts at winemaking of a sort went on as the following recollection shows.

One of the earliest memories of Kitty Bynum, born and raised in Camp County, is of traipsing after her older brothers and sisters during the late 1930’s, early 40’s as they harvested the wild Muscadines that grew along the creeks of her family’s farm in the southern part of the county (2007). She remembers that once they had enough to fill a “big ol’ [sic] jug” about three-fourths full, they would crush the gathered grapes, put them in the jar, seal it, and then bury it in the woods for six to eight months (Bynum, 2007). This concoction would ferment into a primitive sort of wine, which her older siblings would mix with water and add sugar if needed, then drink. This process was far from the refined methods and product being produced from genetically the same grape today at the St. Rose Vineyard and Winery.

St. Rose Vineyard and Winery began life in 1994, with initial plantings, a deep well, and installation of irrigation, which makes it the oldest verifiable existing vineyard in Camp County. The winery is the project of the late Rosemary Guerra and is presently owned by her daughter and son-in-law Mark and Ann Arra. Business started as Guerra Vineyard and Winery in 2005 with the name being changed to St. Rose in late 2007 to honor the late founder (Arra, 2007). A short version of how Mrs. Guerra started the winery can be found in The Wine Roads of Texas, by Wes Marshall.

As Marshall states in his opening paragraph on Guerra Vineyard, Rosemary and her husband Dr. Manuel Guerra had spent the last forty years in Pittsburg TX (2007, 200). Marshall was able to speak with Mrs. Guerra prior to her passing on February 3, 2007. Her husband, who still practices medicine in Pittsburg, survives her. Dr. Guerra established his practice in Camp County in January of 1966 and Rosemary worked with him for the remainder of her life, both in the office and as a lab technician (Pittsburg Gazette, 2007; Camp County Customs & Characters, 1986).

Rosemary Guerra, who graduated with a B.S. degree in Microbiology from Iowa State, went to Grayson County College in Denison and studied viticulture and enology at the school established there in honor of T.V. Munson. Her degree and work as a lab technician for her husband’s practice gave her a good grounding in the chemistry needed to eventually produce quality wine. Testament is the numerous awards handed out by appreciative judges when judged at wine tasting events like GrapeFest, mentioned further below (Siegel, 2007).

Ann, present owner and Rose’s daughter, second generation viticulturist explains that when her mother initially planted the vineyard on the family property northwest of town, it was to indulge her love of farming, as well as provide both her and Dr. Guerra “something to do” when they retired (Arra, 2007). That was the plan, but her untimely passage and his continued practicing of medicine is allowing Ann and her husband Mark to finish Rose’s dream. The winery and tasting room sit on approximately 50 acres of gently sloping land in the lower half of the northwest corner of Camp County. There are approximately 4 acres under vine with 800 plants in cultivation (Arra, 2007, Marshall, 2007, p.201). These are divided into sections based on type of Muscadine. ISON, a patented dark variety, and Carlos a bronze variety, are just two of the types she planted. As a daughter of a farm family growing up, and with a love for the land, Rose understood that farmers have to work with the land not against it. This was the driving reason she chose to plant Muscadine varieties of grape instead of vinifera types to grow. The natural hardiness of the Muscadine and a sensible pest control plan are the only concessions made by the vineyard to the prevalent disease and climate issues that would be so damaging. Her common sense can be seen throughout the vineyard. The supports for the wires are recycled railroad ties, and the wire for the vines to trail on is plain barbed wire, which is less expensive and readily available in Texas displaying her foresight and thrift. The tasting room itself is also recycled, as a promotional flyer states. It is believed to be one hundred years old, and was a sweet potato smoke house (Arra, 2007).

The initial planting of grapevines was in 1994 and is located closest to the road and next to the wood frame building that is now the office of Joe Carattini, a family friend from Ecuador who Ann has employed to manage the day-to-day operations of the vineyard. At the time the Guerra’s purchased the property it was the farmhouse. As Marshall quotes and Carattini explains with Ann filling in any missing information, the initial offerings from the vineyard were jams, jellies, syrups, and preserves (2007). The large number and sheer vitality of the plant, as Rose was quoted explaining to Marshall “In our ground, Muscadine grows so fast that the shoots will touch each other…within days” (2007, p. 200), soon had Rose trying to find ways to use the grapes. Grapes were initially advertised as a “U-pick” operation to anyone who wanted to come and pick. Things then progressed to selling grapes and all the above-mentioned types of grape products at local and regional farmers markets (Arra, 2007). Eventually even these efforts were not enough to handle the amounts of grapes grown and the winery was created.

Opening for business as a winery in 2005, St. Rose continued to make the fruit wine she had been producing and used her skill with chemistry to start making award winning Muscadine wine. Rose’s handwritten notebook, or diary, still in use by Ann with chemical models of the ingredients, lists of how much of each ingredient to add and other vitally important information is amazing to read. There is no doubt after examining this book and tasting the results of such meticulous care as to why St. Rose Signature Red won a Silver medal at the 2006 Lone Star Wine Competition and a Gold medal in 2007 at the same competition. These competitions are tasting’s where connoisseurs, Enologists (wine scientists), and critics judge samples of wine by drinking them and comparing them against their peer wines. The same wine was the 2007 People’s Choice award winner at the 2007 GrapeFest, a trade show, or celebration sponsored by the city of Grapevine Texas annually, to celebrate Texas viticulture. FoxyBlue and FoxyPeach two other varieties of Muscadine/fruit proprietary blends won 3rd and 2nd place respectively at the very same GrapeFest. This is an amazing accomplishment for a winery in its first two years of production and bodes well for the future.