Report on WHO’s NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARISfair held at Porte de Versailles, Paris
from July 6-9, 2013
Introduction about the fair:
Global, international, worldwide….. Fashion now is just about these words. To be anchored perennially in the market, thinking beyond borders is necessary, as is adapting to the demands of a customer who no longer belongs to just one country. Keeping within your own national territory is a step backwards, regression. The season’s theme of “Mexico” was in line with these engagements. Today, all of fashion, or moreover ALL fashions, are at WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS and the city of Paris actively adds to this strong power of attraction. Basically, WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS is thinking global more than ever, and is applying this in order to best support exhibitors in this cross-cultural fashion voyage.
This fair is unique as it is focussed on offering enormous opportunities to young talents both young French and foreign designers to display their creatives and benefit from communication support and reduced tariffs. Spread out across all areas of the trade show, in the men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and urban wear sections, this rich, cutting-edge range of young designers differentiates WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS from other international trade shows. Numerous partnership initiatives and competitions allow some of these designers to benefit from complimentary stands for one or more seasons.
The fair was held in four Halls-2, 3, 4 & 7 under seven categories namely FAMEin Hall 4 for women’s ready-to-wear labels and designers under the headings FRESH and ATELIER respectively. PRIVATEin Halls 3 & 7.1 for all women’s ready-to-wear trends, 600 labels of more than 30 different nationalities come together here each season. MR & MRS BROWN in Hall 3 is the trade show’s collection of ready-to-wear unisex urbanwear. ACCESSORIES in Hall 7.1 & 7.2, PREMIERE CLASSE in Hall 7.2 for fashion accessory designers for 25 years, displaying the designer trends and emerging labels. The selection here is made based on the criteria of creativity, uniqueness and style.
WHO’S NEXT ACCESSORIES in Hall 7.2 represents all categories of fashion accessories. Three sectors known for having specific distribution networks: shoes, leather goods and luggage, and jewellery; and additionally, a sector grouping together textile accessories collections, directly linked with the ready-to-wear market. MR & MRS BROWN ACCESSORIES in Hall 7.2 had collection of urban, unisex accessories. FROM in Hall 7.1- For 25 years, the international producers of textile items and accessories have come together in Paris to promote and sell their fabrication specialties. FROM selects fashion companies for their level of quality and aims to highlight the “made in” aspect of different countries (India, Turkey, etc.).
Mii stands for Made in India at Hall 7.2: The double i’s are like two figures, referring to the meeting of two textile designers from two different countries. Hiding behind the three letters are a couple of scarf designers whose colour palette and choice of patterns are anything but dark and gloomy! After being designed in Paris, the pieces are woven, printed and hand-embroidered in their workshops in Kolkata, India. Mii privileges not only noble materials like Khaddar, Silk, Cashmere and wool but also the finest cottons and linens.
The winners of WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS blog contest during July 2013 are Apres-Ski ( label founded in Barcelona 2009 by Lucia Vergara in Accessory Category, El Colmillo de Morsa launched by Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco in Barcelona in 2009 in Womenswear category and Whitehorses by Lilija Larionova from Lithuania in the Menswear category.
Trade visitor’s analysis:
France: France has shown a decline of 7.5% with 27,872 visitors, making up 63% of all visitors. This reduction is attributed to mediocre summer sales with Retailers staying back in their boutiques to take care of the sales period. Buyers from Paris and the Paris region were the most numerous, with 14,124 visitors. Visitors from the rest of France totalled 13,748.
EUROPE (outside of France): Europe (excluding French buyers) showed an increase of 1.8%. With 11,676 entrants counted, Europe represents 70.2% of foreign visitors. Within the European visitors, exhibitors celebrated revival of Italy, Germany, Belgium and the UK. The presence of Brits from Browns, Net-A-Porter, Liberty PLC and Feathers was certainly noticed. Even Spain and Greece, impacted with the full force of the economic crisis, gained ground and saw significant increases.
> Italy: 2,672 (+10%), highest proportion of foreign visitors
> Spain: 1,710 (+7.7%), second-highest proportion of foreign visitors
> Belgium: 1,690 visitors (+5.8%), third-highest proportion of foreign visitors
> UK: 916 visitors (+9.8%), fifth-highest proportion of foreign visitors
> Germany: 682 visitors (+10%), sixth-highest proportion of foreign visitors
ASIA: Despite a decline of 7.7% and 2,548 buyers, Asia, carried by Japanese visitors, remained the second most represented continent in the trade show's halls (15.3% of foreign visitors). Japan is the fourth most common country represented among foreign visitors, with 1,532 entrants. The most important Japanese buyers, including Barney's Japan, Ron Herman, American Rag, Journal Standard (Baycrews) and United Arrows, remained faithful to the show. The number of Chinese visitors suffered a loss of 4.9% with 538 buyers, but exhibitors celebrated the presence of major retailers such as the four largest Chinese concept and department stores based in Hong Kong: Liger, P-Plus, Ooak and Harvey Nichols. South Korea, which has, until now, had a very small presence at WHO’S NEXT PRÊT-A-PORTER PARIS was more strongly represented by boutiques such as 10 Corso Como, Koon and Handsome (Space Mue).
AMERICAN CONTINENTS: The American continents constituted 6.9% of foreign visitors, with 1,146 entrants. The USA experienced a slight decline of 3.9% with 446 visitors. Canada followed Guadeloupe with 138 and 140 visitors respectively.
THE MIDDLE EAST: The Middle East showed the largest progression of the season with +18.1% and 678 buyers (4.1% of the foreign population of the show), a great
performance considering the pre-Ramadan period. Israeli visitors overtook Lebanese nationals, with 152 and 148 visitors respectively. The United Arab Emirates followed with 138 visitors. Many beautiful boutiques made the trip, following the example of Harvey Nichols Ryhad (Saudi Arabia), Bloomingdale's (UAE), Aishti (Beirut), Harvey Nichols (Dubai), ABC Department Store and Piaff Boutique (Beirut).
AFRICA: The African continent totalled 386 visitors. Reunion registered the largest number of retailers, 136 in total. Tunisia and Mauritius also stand out with 58 and 32 buyers respectively.
OCEANIA: The 196 buyers from Oceania were primarily Australian, with 106 entrants.
Theme at WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS:
Light Shadow: This theme has a Japanese feeling with silhouettes enhanced with sophisticated purity and supple volumes. Somewhere between silk and concrete, structure and fluidity, inky blue and chalky transparency, this dreamy vision is bathed in transparency with a glow that celebrates a noble, timeless monastic aesthetic and makes room to contemplate a future that’s not very far off.
New Soul: This theme a tale from other worlds, explores the soul with a hybrid mix that symbolizes an influx of authenticity. Luxury’s arts and crafts fuse with elegance and reveal new, rare and unexpected urban horizons. Tropical customs and more geometric silhouettes produce a subtle mix of both classic and new “totem pieces”. The New Soul Woman is optimistic, true to herself and full of life and color.
Escale: The first stopover in our trip is to an island tucked away beyond land’s end. Its coastline is formed by the passing of time, and its part-living clan shows off chic, sophisticated Japanese accents. It is a rediscovery of seaside wardrobe codes with the polished charm of maritime folklore-structured volumes and a weathered aesthetic. This first visit marks the encounters and exchanges between the artisans of the world’s major trading posts from the North Sea to the Japanese coasts.
Export of handloom products to France:Comparative analysis of export of handloom products for the years 2009-10, 2010-11,
2011-12 and 2012-13
(Rs. in crores)
Products / April 2009-March 2010 / April 2010-March 2011 / April 2011-March 2012 / April 2012-March 2013 / % change 2010-11 over 2009-10 / % change
2011-12
over 2010-11 / % change
2012-13 over 2011-12
Fabrics / 1.15 / 1.52 / 0.26 / 0.87 / 31.37 / -82.80 / 233.71
Madeups / 39.65 / 38.27 / 46.49 / 59.18 / -3.49 / 21.48 / 27.29
Floor coverings / 1.53 / 5.71 / 11.38 / 26.49 / 274.26 / 99.13 / 132.90
Clothing Accessories / 0.01 / 0.09 / 0.26 / 0.81 / 979.61 / 195.02 / 209.75
Grand Total / 42.34 / 45.59 / 58.39 / 87.36 / 7.67 / 28.09 / 49.61
Position among top 10 countries:
France has been continuously hovering around within top 10 export destinations of handloom products. From 5th place in 2009-10 it shifted to 6th place in 2010-11 subsequently to 7th place in 2011-12 and finally again to 5th place in 2012-13.
Year-on-Year growth:
It is inferred from the above matrix that export of handloom products to France has witnessed an increasing trend from 7.67% during 2010-11 to 28.09% during 2011-12 and further to 49.61% during 2012-13.
Composition of Handloom products export:
Among various products in the export basket of Handloom products, Floor Coverings and Clothing Accessories have shown steady growth while Fabrics and Madeups categories registered a mixed trend during 2009-10, 2010-11, 2011-12 and 2012-13. Madeups, which were Rs.39.65 crores during 2009-10 decreased to Rs.38.27 crores during 2010-11, which subsequently increased to Rs.46.49 crores during 2011-12 and further increased to Rs.59.18 crores during 2012-13. Fabrics, which were Rs.1.15 crores during 2009-10 increased to Rs.1.52 crores during 2010-11 but decreased to Rs.0.26 crores during 2011-12 and then increased to 0.87 crores during 2012-13. Floor coverings, which stood at Rs.1.53 crores during 2009-10 increased to Rs.5.71 crores during 2010-11 and reached Rs.11.38 crores during 2011-12 and further increased to Rs.26.49 crores during 2012-13. Clothing Accessories, which stood at Rs.0.01 crores during 2009-10 increased to Rs.0.09 crores in 2010-11 and reached Rs.0.26 crores during 2011-12 and further increased to Rs.0.81 crores during 2012-13.
Percentage share of products exported to France:
(Rs. in Crores)
Products / April 2009-March 2010 / April 2010-March 2011 / April 2011-March 2012 / April 2012-March 2013Value in Rs. / % Share / Value in Rs. / % Share / Value in Rs. / % Share / Value in Rs. / % Share
Fabrics / 1.15 / 2.73 / 1.52 / 3.33 / 0.26 / 0.45 / 0.87 / 1.00
Madeups / 39.65 / 93.65 / 38.27 / 83.95 / 46.49 / 79.62 / 59.18 / 67.74
Floor coverings / 1.53 / 3.60 / 5.71 / 12.53 / 11.38 / 19.48 / 26.49 / 30.33
Clothing Accessories / 0.01 / 0.02 / 0.09 / 0.20 / 0.26 / 0.45 / 0.81 / 0.93
Grand Total / 42.34 / 100.00 / 45.59 / 100.00 / 58.39 / 100.00 / 87.36 / 100.00
The percentage share of various products exported to France have been analysed for four years from April 2009 - March 2013 in the above table. It is inferred that while percentage share of Floor coverings and Clothing accessories show an increasing trend Made ups have a decreasing trend and Fabrics shown a mixed trend during the said period.
Fabrics, which had registered 2.73% during 2009-10 increased to 3.33% in 2010-11 subsequently decreased to 0.45% in 2011-12 and subsequently increased to 1% during 2012-13. Madeups has continually witnessed a declining trend from 93.65% in 2009-10 to 83.95% in 2010-11 and 79.62% in 2011-12 to 67.74% during 2012-13. Floor coverings, which was 3.60% in 2009-10 increased to 12.53% in 2010-11 and 19.48% in 2011-12 and further to 30.33% in 2012-13. Clothing accessories had witnessed an increasing trend from 0.02% in 2009-10 to 0.20% in 2010-11 and 0.45% in 2011-12 to 0.93% in 2012-13.
France's share in total export of handloom products
Rs. In CroresProducts / April 2009-March 2010 / April 2010-March 2011 / April 2011-March 2012 / April 2012-March 2013
India's total Export / 1252.24 / 1574.96 / 2623.97 / 2811.97
France's Share / 42.34 / 45.59 / 58.39 / 87.36
Share of France in % / 3.38 / 2.89 / 2.23 / 3.11
It is inferred from the above table that France’s share of Handloom products export vis-à-vis total export of Handloom products from India had registered mixed trend from 3.38% during 2009-10 decreased to 2.89% during 2010-11 and further dipped to 2.23% during 2011-12 and had subsequently increased to 3.11% during 2012-13.
Exports and intercultural aspects:
The intercultural approach is a powerful leverage for success of a brand’s international strategy. However even today it is often neglected widely in the export sector. This is primarily because the exporter concentrates on transferring a domestic product to a new market and fails to focus on adapting the product to the needs of the external target market. The needs and buying motivation of the local consumers are not taken into account and this considerably slows down the brand’s development in the new market. The key therefore is to have an in-depth understanding and this takes time for which patience is also important. For example, establishing a durable business relationship in China, where pragmatism dominates might take a foreign company 3 or 4 years. A North-American buyer has no time to waste and is precise and direct, whereas a Chinese buyer tends to take his time returning several times before sealing a deal. Then for a Japanese buyer his trust needs to be won, who will make a small first order to try out the brand, its delivery delays, if delivered products match those ordered. International buyers have a greater tendency to place orders with new brands even those not represented by an agent in their countries at an international trade show like WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS.
Council’s participation:
Council under Comprehensive Handloom Development Scheme (CHDS) of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms (DCH), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India participated in the summer edition of WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS held at Porte de Versailles, Paris from July 6-9, 2013. Council has been participating in this fair from 2010 and this was Council’s 2nd participation in the WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS.
During 2012, the summer edition of WHO’s NEXT was shifted to June instead of September for the first time. Council participated for the first time in June 2012 edition with 10 member exhibitors, which witnessed footfall of 47,064 visitors. During the current edition, Council participated with 12 participants by booking space of 125 sq. mts. (108 sq. mts in 2012). Minimum booth size offered to members was 9 sq.mtrs and in response to Member Exporters request, stalls were allotted in a scattered manner and not sequentially as was done during previous editions. Council had put up a promotional stall and also hired hostess for distributing publicity materials to visitors.
The following Member Exporters participated in the fair and were allotted booths at Hall 7.1:
Sl. No. / Company Name and address1. / Anushree Accessories Pvt. Ltd., Delhi
2. / Tushar Handworks, Jaipur
3 / B.B.K.Textile Mills, Amritsar-143001.
4. / S.R.Overseas, Bhagalpur
5. / Kamini Krafts, Mumbai.
6. / Mangalam (India) Expotex Pvt. Ltd., Varanasi
7. / Nano Overseas, New Delhi
8. / Rawsitasa Exports Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi
9. / The Himalayan Bodh Women’s Galicha, Handloom & Handicrafts Co. Op Industrial Society Ltd., Himachalpradesh
10. / Aeshaane, Chennai
11. / Ganpatiji Exports Creations, Uttar Pradesh
12. / Diamond Silk Co-Op. Society Ltd., Varanasi
Council’s Member Exporters displayed products ranging from stoles, scarves, jewellery, handmade bags, fabrics, silk, linen, modal, nylon, handbags, handloom silk, cotton, viscose, shawls, handcrafted ladies collections etc. Participants have reported that through this fair they were able to gain entry into Japan, Italy, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Portugal, China, Malaysia, Russia, Uruguay, Turkey, Netherlands and Sweden. In total nearly 107 buyers had visited stands of Member Exporters at the fair and all participants have expressed their desire to participate in the next edition of WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS through the Council.
H.E. Shri. Arun K. Singh, Ambassador of India to France on July 6, 2013 inaugurated the Indian Handloom Pavilion consisting of 12 members exporters. Subsequently, Ambassador visited the stalls of Council’s members and interacted with them.
As per feedback received from member participants spot orders worth Rs.1.17 crores (Rs.1.75 crores during 2012) had been booked and enquiries to the tune of Rs.1.37 crores (Rs.4.10 crores) were generated. The Council has successfully registered the following 16 buyers for IIHF 2014 edition and contact has been established with nearly 20 companies for registering their profiles for IIHF 2014.
Sl.No. / Name of Company1 / Celine Malhoeuvre, France,
2 / Nita's Boutique, Canada
3 / Tristan, Canada
4 / Venera Seth In, Canada,
5 / Audacious, Belgium
6 / Sarl Adnails, France
7 / Eden, France.
8 / Olaneta, Spain
9 / Bea Beatrice, France
10 / Aperitif Sjaler, Denmark
11 / TDT Intl., Denmark
12 / Comema Hakimi, France
13 / Anna Lodi, Italy
14 / Lalli.s, Finland
15 / Eur Dalaha, France
16 / 3GI, New Zealand
Photo Gallery
July 6, 2013
L-R H.E. Shri. Arun K. Singh (second from left), Ambassador of India to France inaugurating the Indian Handloom Pavilion also seen in the picture is Dr.Mrs.Beela Rajesh, I.A.S., Executive Director, HEPC (first from left). /
H.E. Shri. Arun K. Singh (second from left), Ambassador of India to France greeted with a bouquet at the fair also seen in the picture is Dr.Mrs.Beela Rajesh, I.A.S., Executive Director, HEPC (first from left).
/
H.E. Shri. Arun K. Singh (second from left), Ambassador of India to France along with Dr.Mrs.Beela Rajesh, I.A.S., Executive Director, HEPC visiting stalls of Member exporters at the fair.
Conclusion
Dr.Mrs.Beela Rajesh IAS, Executive Director of the Council coordinated the participation of members at the fair.