BUILDING SEQUENCE:
Fuselage and Tail Layout and Parts Cutting:
1. Print and assemble plans.
2. Butt join two DTFB sheets along20" sides to make one sheet 20' X 60".
3. Tape the plans over the sheet carefully matching all 4 corners.
4. Transfer the cut, score and fold lines to the DTFB with your favorite transfer method. Considering the detail I would suggest spray adhesive and cutting right through the plans.
5. Transfer locations for:
Parts A and E. These two have to be positioned accurately to control structure.
The angled marks on part G as they are critical for proper power pod position.
The wing hold-down and pod securing dowel locations.
6. Cut out all foam board parts.
7. Transfer the layout for the wooden parts. Part Q will be needed early in the building process.
8. Cut out the wooden parts.
9 Cut 3/16 wooden dowels:
One piece 16” and one 8” for the horizontal stabilizer.
Two pieces 6" long and slightly paper both ends with sand paper for wing hold-downs.
One piece 4 ¼” long for holding the power pod in place. Taper one end and put a 3/8”glue knob on the other.
Fuselage Assembly:
1. Glue the two parts A in pace on the two fuselage sides.
2. Glue wood part Q onto foam part D
3. Remove all 3/16 strips from the fold areas on the fuselage and other parts.
4. Crease and pre-bend the fuselage on the crease marks with a straight edge and the tip of a skewer.
5. Assemble the lower fuselage joints making sure to hold them square.
6. Install parts B and C to brace the lower fuselage.
7. Install parts D, E, F and F in that order.
8. Install part G being careful to center both ends in the fuselage.
9. There are 4 of part H. Glue them together in pairs making two doubled pieces. Install one pair on each side on the marks on top of part G gluing the lower ends to the fuselage sides. Be sure they are centered in the fuselage and that they are 2" apart at the upper ends. The power pod has to fit between them.
10. Install the two nose doublers part J (X2) aligning with the sides.
Note: For more nose strength make the nose doublers (part J) from 1/8 lite ply instead of foam board.
11. Install the front wing hold down dowel. Pierce with a skewer from each side then push the dowel through from each side. Reinsert the dowel all the way through. Center it then glue top and bottom all along part F.
12. Install the top fuselage panels K and L. Make sure K wraps over the top of parts FF at the front of the wing opening.
13. Install the wooden fuselage parts M, N, O (X2), P and R (X2) in that order. You may have to nip a small corner off of part R where it touches the turtle deck (part L).
14. Use a pie lifter heated with a heat gun, or hot plate to smooth all the outside joints and flatten any glue lumps.
15. Seal all outside joints and board edges with packing tape including the bottom folded joints and wing seats.
16. Install the rear wing dowel. Pierce each side with a sharp knife, then a skewer then the end of the 3/16" dowel. Reinsert the dowel. Center it and then apply a generous bead of glue all around the inside penetration. Properly installed the dowel should be just under part R, 1/2" behind the rear wing seat and project the same amount on each side.
17. You are now ready to paint the fuselage and then install servos, control horns and push rods.
Tail Assembly
1. Clear out the two dowel slots in the horizontal stabilizer. Cut two 3/16 dowels to fit and glue in with hot glue. Make sure to keep flat in both directions till the glue cools.
2. Assemble the vertical and horizontal stabilizers. Be sure to keep them square.
3. Install the tail onto the fuselage for a dry fit. Use a straight object held across the wing seat to check tail alignment. Trim sides of the fuselage slightly if needed for good alignment.
4. When satisfied with the fit spread glue on the insides of the fuselage where the tail tab fits between and on all other mating surfaces. Install the tail. Pinch and hold the fuselage sides together while checking the alignment with the wing seat. Twist the fuselage slightly while wet if needed for alignment. Run a small bead of glue all around the mating surfaces smoothing with the gun tip.
5. Smooth all glue joints with the heated pie lifter.
6. Seal all exposed cut edges with shipping tape
Power Pod Installation:
1. Build a standard FT power pod from FT plans. Remove the tabs. Completely line and cover with packing tape.
2. Insert the power pod and center it in the front. The back should be centered and held in position by the ramp and side guides. Insert and glue skewers into the foam per the standard FT method to secure the front of the pod in place. Make sure to penetrate at least 2".
21. Pierce the fuselage sides on the layout for the pod holding dowel with a skewer. Insert the power pod pushing it all the way back on the skewers. Use a long sharp object (flag wire) to pierce the pod in the same location as the skewer holes on each side. Pull the pod out and enlarge the pierced holes with the skewer. Reinsert the pod and work the skewer all the way through all 4 holes. Insert the 3/16 dowel from each side to further enlarge the holes and then straight through to secure. Reinforce holes in the pod and fuselage with gift card or cutting board.
Wing Half Assembly:
1. Transfer one of the wing drawings to a sheet of foam board using your favorite method.
2. Cut out the first wing.
3. Trace the second wing from the first marking score lines on the opposite side.
4. Cut out the second wing.
5. Back cut the foam board 45 degrees at top and bottom leading edges and the leading edges of the ailerons.
6. Open the wing fold slots with the blunt end of a skewer. Use several strokes and bear down to slot the foam all the way to the front paper.
7, Cut the wing spars from the lower wing tip cut-outs. There will be 12 pieces 3/4" X 7 /78". Three pieces are used for each spar butted end to end.
8. Glue the spars into place just inside of the two wing fold slots. Be careful not to get glue in the slots.
9. Fold the wing together for a trial fit. It should easily form to the wing shape. There should be some resistance at the leading edge but the wing folds should go easily.
10. If all goes well unfold the wing and place glue in the two top surface fold lines next to each spar. Quickly fold the wing back to the final shape and hold till the glue sets. This will set the wing top surface to shape.
11. Unfold the wing. Place glue in the leading edge and along the full length of each spar. Do not glue the trailing edge yet.
12. Fold the wing back together to the final shape and hold till the glue is set.
13. Work the glue gun tip into the joint at the trailing edge and spread a light bead between the two surfaces.
14. Quickly place the wing on a flat surface and hold down till the trailing edge glue is set.
15. Run another heavier bead along the joint spreading it with the gun tip to a light even bead.
16. Repeat the process with the other wing.
17. At this point you have to decide if you want a wing with dihedral for moderate skill level or a flat wing for more advanced training.
Wing Assembly:
1. a. If you are making the advanced trainer with no dihedral the wing ends should not need any trimming as long as the top and bottom surfaces came out even at the butting ends. Place the wing halves together flat on the building board and check the fit. Trim anything needed to make the top and bottom surfaces join tight.
1. b. If you are making the Intermediate Trainer you will have to trim the top wing panel about 1/16 at the top center (spar to spar) on each side. Trim from that to nothing at the leading and trailing edges. This small amount can be removed easily with a sanding block. To check the fit and to assemble the wing later, place a wing dihedral gage (2 1/2”) under each wing tip between the spars.
2. Place the wing halves bottom side up and connect the bottom joint with packing tape.
3. Turn the wing over and apply hot glue to the edges of one side of top and bottom wing surfaces.
4. a. For the Advanced Trainer: Immediately lay the wing flat on the building board right side up, check and adjust alignment and squeegee any excessive adhesive from the joint. Hold it down firmly till the glue is set.
4. b. For the Intermediate Trainer: Do the same thing except place the dihedral gages (W-6) under the wing tips as you turn it over.
5. Tape the top joint lapping about 2" onto the bottom surface at the leading edge and trimming flush at the trailing edge. At this point the part of the top surface between the ailerons will still be hinged to the front portion of the wing.
6. Turn the wing over and install the bottom wing doubler, part # W-3. Dry fit it aligning the center line with the wing joint and the 6” wide portion with the hinged portion of the upper wing panel. If the fit is good apply a generous bead of hot glue all around the perimeter and about every 1 ½” through the middle. Reposition the piece and press it firmly in place. Check and adjust alignment quickly, then hold firmly in place till the glue sets. For the intermediate trainer the bottom doubler will have to be flexed slightly to conform to the angle of the wing.
7. Glue part W-3 onto the top side of part W-2 matching edges all around. Also glue it to the back edge of the lower wing panel.
8. Apply glue to the scored joint and bottom surface of the hinged portion of the upper wing panel and press it down to part W2.
9. a. For the Advanced Trainer: Dry fit the Upper Wing Doubler, part W-4 to the top wing surface aligning the center line with the wing joint at front and back. The score joints should match the wing folds. The front edge should be even with the wing leading edge and the back edge should be at the aileron hinge line. Apply hot glue all around the perimeter and every 1 ½” through the middle. Press into place and hold till the glue sets. Run a neat bead all around the perimeter of part W-4.
9. b. For the Intermediate Trainer: The Upper Wing Doubler will not make contact with the wing joint at the middle because of the dihedral angle. Install part W-5 at the center of the wing as a filler between the wing joint and W-4. W-5 gets set in a generous bed of hot glue at the center of the wing. Spread a generous squiggle on the top of part W-5 and a generous double bead around the perimeter of part W-4. Press part W-4 into place aligning the center line with the wing joint and the front edge with the leading edge of the wing. Make sure to hold pressure where needed to eliminate all gaps between W-4 and the wing top surface till the glue sets.
10. Cut two wing centering blocks (part W-7) as shown on the plans. Hot glue them in place at the locations shown on the plans. Run a small bead of hot glue all around each.
11. Cut two pieces of skewer 6" long each. Glue one to the top corner of the leading edge and one to the top corner of the trailing edge centered on the wing joint. Reinforce the bottom of each with generous beads of hot glue. These will prevent the rubber bands from digging into the foam at the front and back of the wing.
11. The wing is now complete ready for painting then servo and control horn installations.
Painting:
1. Paint the fuselage and wing using Rustoleum or similar aerosol spray paint. There are several articles here giving pointers on technique. The main cautions are to spray light coats and to spray from a distance of about 18" so the propellant does not attack the foam. I used Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow on the one pictured in the article.
Main Landing Gear:
1. Join the two main landing gear drawing sheets.
2. Cut a piece of 1/8" music wire 24" long.
3. Bend the music wire to match the pattern on the plans starting with a 90 degree bend at the center.
4. Trim the axel portion to 1 1/2" long on both sides.
5. Make sure the axels are angled to produce 2 degrees of toe-in as shown on the plans. This will help with ground handling making the steering self-correcting and avoiding ground loops.
6. Measure 1" back from the front edge of the flat bottom center portion of the fuselage.
7. Use a triangle or some other square object to make a square line across at that point. Mark both outside corners.
8. Hold the bent main gear in place on the two marks and trace both sides of the wire at the center "V" portion.
9. Use a hobby knife and straight edge to make score cuts at the centers of the traced lines.
10. Use the blunt end of a skewer to open slots on the score marks all the way through the foam.
11. Trial fit the landing gear in the slots making any corrections needed till it inserts fully.
12. Remove the gear and fill the slots with hot glue.
13. Reinsert the gear and immediately squeegee the slots smooth.
14. Add more hot glue if needed to completely fill the slots and squeegee smooth.
15. Add your favorite wheels using hot glue or wheel collars to secure.
16. The main gear is now complete and ready to roll.
Tail Skid:
1. Print the "Tail Skid" drawing.
2. Cut a piece of flag wire 7 3/4" long.
3. Cut a piece of 1/8 OD brass or aluminum tubing 1 5/8" long.
4. Make a bend on the flag wire at 2" from one end to match the angle of the bottom of the rudder. Double check the angle to the rudder on the model.
5. Insert the longer end of the flag wire into the tubing.
6. Make a second bend at the bottom of the tubing to match the drawing.
7. Make two or three additional bends to form the curved skid matching the drawing.