For Lemon Dipping Sauce

APPETIZERS

BEER BATTERED ASPARAGUS

For lemon dipping sauce

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For asparagus

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup lager such as Harp (pour beer slowly into measuring cup; do not measure foam)

About 4 cups vegetable oil

1 lb medium asparagus, trimmed and cut into 3-inch pieces

Special equipment: a deep-fat thermometer

Make dipping sauce:

Stir together mayonnaise, lemon juice, zest, and pepper in a small bowl. Chill, covered, until ready to use.

Make batter and fry asparagus:

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 200°F.

Whisk together flour, salt, zest, and pepper in a bowl until combined, then add beer, whisking until smooth.

Heat 3 inches oil in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately high heat until it registers 375°F on thermometer.

Submerge asparagus spears in batter to coat. Working in batches of 10, drag 1 at a time gently against rim to remove excess batter, then transfer to oil and fry, stirring gently to keep asparagus from sticking together, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer as fried with a slotted spoon to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet and keep warm in oven. Return oil to 375°F between batches. Serve with lemon dipping sauce.

Cooks' note:

Asparagus can be kept warm in oven up to 30 minutes.

Makes 4 first-course servings.

SOUPS

FRENCH ARTICHOKE SOUP PERIGOURDINE

(SoupeD'ArtichautsPerigourdine)

This hearty French soup comes from the land of truffles and foiegras, where it is popularly eaten by Perigord farmers for breakfast as well as other meals. It's an easy, attractive, and filling soup for you artichoke diehards out there. Serve hot over toasted French bread to four for lunch or a light dinner.

3 small onions, sliced

1 Tablespoon bacon fat

1 Tablespoon flour

1 garlic clove, minced

1 15-oz. can tomatoes, seeded and chopped (reserving liquid)

4 cups chicken stock

4 cooked artichoke bottoms, diced, or 1 8-oz. package of frozen artichoke hearts, quartered

Garnish: 4 thick slabs of toasted French bread

Sauté the onion in the bacon fat until lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour and minced garlic and stir over medium heat for a minute or two. Stir in the tomatoes and cook until soft--about 5 minutes. Mash the tomatoes, then pour in the stock and reserved tomato juice. Boiling gently for 30 minutes. Stir in the artichoke and cook 20 more minutes.

When ready to serve, ladle over the toasted bread slices.

POTAGE PARMENTIER

This excellent French soup is as smooth and elegant as it is simple; serve hot to 6-8 people as a first course.

Soup Tale: France was beset with famine following the Seven Year War (1756-1763). Native son Antoine AugusteParmentier, who had been fed the so-called poisonous potato root in a German prison-of-war camp, returned to France to find his country men starving. He set up potato soup kitchens throughout Paris to assist the poor. Ultimately, Louis XVI recognized his work by saying, "France will thank you some day for having found bread for the poor." In fact, he is best honored by the pleasure his country take in digesting Potage Parmentier.

3 cups leeks, white and tender green parts, sliced (although not original to the recipe, the soup is enriched by sautéeing the leeks in 3 Tablespoons of butter as a first step)

4 cups potatoes, peeled and chopped

8 cups water (chicken stock is not original, but enriches it)

1 Tablespoon salt

6 Tablespoons heavy cream

Garnish: chopped parsley or chives

In a Dutch oven, simmer the potatoes, leeks, and salt in the water until all are very tender--about 50 minutes. Puree the mixture, then correct seasoning.

When ready to serve, stir in the cream, ladle into bowls or a tureen, and decorate with herbs.

ENTREES

BEEF AND GUINNESS PIE

Irish stouts produce a thick head when poured, so chill the can or bottle well before measuring to reduce the foam.

2 lb boneless beef chuck, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

3 tablespoons water

1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup beef broth

1 cup Guinness or other Irish stout

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons drained brined green peppercorns, coarsely chopped

2 fresh thyme sprigs

Rough puff pastry dough

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon water

Special equipment: 4 (14-oz) deep bowls or ramekins (4 to 5 inches wide) or similar-capacity ovenproof dishes

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F.

Pat beef dry. Stir together flour, salt, and pepper in a shallow dish. Add beef, turning to coat, then shake off excess and transfer to a plate. Heat oil in a wide 5- to 6-quart ovenproof heavy pot over moderately high heat until just smoking, then brown meat in 3 batches, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch, transferring to a bowl.

Add onion, garlic, and water to pot and cook, scraping up any brown bits from bottom of pot and stirring frequently, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in beef with any juices accumulated in bowl, broth, beer, Worcestershire sauce, peppercorns, and thyme and bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to oven. Braise until beef is very tender and sauce is thickened, about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Discard thyme and cool stew completely, uncovered, about 30 minutes. (If stew is warm while assembling pies, it will melt uncooked pastry top.)

Put a shallow baking pan on middle rack of oven and increase oven temperature to 425°F.

Divide cooled stew among bowls (they won't be completely full). Roll out pastry dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 13-inch square, about 1/8 inch thick. Trim edges and cut dough into quarters. Stir together egg and water and brush a 1-inch border of egg wash around each square. Invert 1 square over each bowl and drape, pressing sides lightly to help adhere. Brush pastry tops with some of remaining egg wash and freeze 15 minutes to thoroughly chill dough.

Bake pies in preheated shallow baking pan until pastry is puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Reduce oven temperature to 400°F and bake 5 minutes more to fully cook dough.

Cooks' note:

Stew (without pastry) can be made 2 days ahead, cooled completely, and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before using.

Makes 4 main-course servings.

Gourmet

October 2004

CHICKEN AND MUSHROOM PIE WITH PHYLLO-PARMESAN CRUST

Boneless chicken thighs give a moist result, but chicken breasts work well, too. Mix wild mushrooms with cultivated button mushrooms for a deeper flavor. Goes great with: Mashed potatoes flecked with chopped fresh parsley or tarragon. What to drink: Chardonnay or Merlot.

1 1/2-ounce package dried porcini mushrooms

1 cup hot water

9 tablespoons butter, divided

1 pound assorted fresh mushrooms (such as crimini, stemmed shiitake, and button mushrooms), sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 cups low-salt chicken broth

3/4 cup Riesling or other fruity white wine

2 ounces thin prosciutto slices, cut into thin strips

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 1/2 cup water

12 sheets fresh phyllo pastry or frozen, thawed

2 pounds skinless boneless chicken thighs, excess fat removed, thighs quartered

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Combine dried porcini and 1 cup hot water in small bowl; let stand until porcini are soft, about 20 minutes. Drain porcini, reserving liquid.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add fresh mushrooms and garlic; sauté until mushrooms are browned, about 8 minutes. Add porcini, porcini soaking liquid (leaving any sediment behind), broth, wine, prosciutto, lemon peel, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer uncovered 20 minutes to blend flavors. Whisk cornstarch mixture to combine and add to skillet; stir until mixture thickens slightly, about 1 1/2 minutes. Season sauce to taste with more salt and pepper, if desired.(Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool slightly, then cover and refrigerate.)

Preheat oven to 425°F. Melt 6 tablespoons butter in small saucepan; remove from heat. Place 1 phyllo sheet on work surface (cover remainder with sheet of plastic wrap, then damp towel). Brush phyllo sheet with some of melted butter. Using both hands, gently scrunch buttered phyllo sheet into loose ball, about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter; set on work surface. Repeat with remaining phyllo sheets and melted butter.

Bring mushroom sauce to boil. Mix in chicken and parsley. Transfer mixture to 13x9x2-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Cover hot filling with phyllo balls. Sprinkle Parmesan over. Bake 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F; bake until phyllo is golden and chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes longer.

Quick Trick: Phyllo pastry dough is scrunched to form the pretty "biscuits" that top this pot pie.

MUSHROOM-LEEK FRITTATA

1 1/2 cups croutons

2 T butter

2 T olive oil

2 minced cloves garlic

1 T butter

1 T olive oil

1 cup chopped leeks

3 cups sliced mushrooms

1 T fresh or 1 t dried dill or marjoram

Salt and pepper to taste

4 oz cream cheese, cut into ½ inch cubes

1 1/4 cups grated sharp cheddar

4 eggs

1 1/4 cup milk

Sauté garlic in 2 T each butter and olive oil, until golden. Toss croutons in garlic butter.

Sauté leeks in 1 T each butter and olive oil, for a minute or two. Add mushrooms, herbs, salt and pepper, and cook covered until tender.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-inch baking dish. Layer croutons, cream cheese cubes, vegetables, and cheddar cheese into dish.

Beat eggs and milk with salt and pepper, and pour over layered ingredients in baking dish. Bake 30 minutes or until fluffy and golden. Serve immediately.

PEPPER-CRUSTED STEAKS WITH WORCESTERSHIRE-GLAZED PORTOBELLOS

It's important to splurge on well-marbled choice or prime strip steaks for this recipe. Lighter eaters might want to share one of these substantial cuts.

4 14- to 16-ounce New York strip steaks (each about 1 to 1 1/4 inches thick)

3 tablespoons black peppercorns, cracked with mallet

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) butter

4 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 pound portobello mushrooms, cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices

Sprinkle steaks with cracked peppercorns and coarse salt. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes.

Melt 1/2 cup butter in large skillet over medium heat. Stir in Worcestershire sauce and vinegar. Stir in mushrooms. Sprinkle with salt. Remove from heat.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Grill steaks until cooked to desired doneness, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to plates. Top each steak with 1/2 tablespoon butter. Tent with foil to keep warm. Grill mushrooms until soft and beginning to release juices, about 3 minutes per side. Divide mushrooms among steaks and serve.

Test-kitchen tip: To make crisscross grill marks, place steaks on the grill pointing to ten o'clock. Halfway through cooking on one side, turn steaks to point to 2 o'clock. Turn steaks over and repeat.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Bon Appétit

July 2004

SPAGHETTI WITH GARLIC

The secret to this dish is perfectly golden garlic. Pale garlic won't crisp properly while cooling, whereas overcooked garlic will be bitter.

About 1 1/2 large heads garlic, separated into cloves (about 30)

5 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

1 lb spaghetti

1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Accompaniment: finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Peel garlic without crushing cloves and thinly slice lengthwise as evenly as possible (you should have about 1 cup; peel and slice more if necessary). Cook garlic in 4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until just golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer garlic with a slotted spoon to a bowl. (Garlic will crisp as it cools.) Add hot pepper flakes to skillet and cook, stirring, 1 minute, then remove skillet from heat.

Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain spaghetti in a colander. Stir zest and salt into oil in skillet, then add spaghetti, parsley, and 1/2 cup reserved cooking water. Toss over moderately high heat until combined well, 30 seconds to 1 minute, adding enough reserved cooking water to keep spaghetti moist. Add half of garlic and toss. Remove from heat and toss pasta with remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with remaining garlic.

Makes 4 main-course servings.

Gourmet

September 2004

TUNA NOODLE CASSEROLE

1 medium onion, finely chopped

4 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

10 oz mushrooms, trimmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick (4 cups)

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1/4 cup Sherry

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 cup whole milk

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 (6-oz) can tuna in olive oil, drained

6 oz dried curly egg noodles (preferably Pennsylvania Dutch style; about 3 1/4 cups)

1 1/2 cups coarse fresh bread crumbs (from 3 slices firm white sandwich bread)

4 oz coarsely grated Cheddar (1 cup)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a shallow 2-quart baking dish.

Cook onion in 1 1/2 tablespoons butter with a pinch of salt in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to moderately high and add mushrooms, then sauté, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms begin to give off liquid, about 2 minutes. Add soy sauce and continue to sauté mushrooms, stirring, until liquid mushrooms give off is evaporated. Add Sherry and boil, stirring occasionally, until evaporated. Remove from heat.

Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat and whisk in flour, then cook roux, whisking, 3 minutes. Add broth in a stream, whisking, and bring to a boil, whisking. Whisk in milk and simmer sauce, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Stir in mushroom mixture, lemon juice, and salt. Flake tuna into sauce and stir gently. Season sauce with salt and pepper.

Cook noodles in a 5- to 6-quart pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain noodles in a colander and return to pot. Add sauce and stir gently to combine. Transfer mixture to baking dish, spreading evenly.

Toss together bread crumbs and cheese in a bowl. Drizzle with oil and toss again, then sprinkle evenly over casserole. Bake until topping is crisp and sauce is bubbling, 20 to 30 minutes.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

DESSERTS

NEAPOLITAN BISCOTTI

These not-too-sweet cookies are based on an old recipe seldom seen these days. Although the combination of almonds, honey and cinnamon is still a typical one, contemporary Neapolitan biscotti tend to be less aggressively flavored.

1 1/2 cups whole almonds

2 cups all purpose flour

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/3 cup honey

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line large baking sheet with foil.Butter foil. Finely grind 3/4 cup almonds in processor. Transfer to large bowl. Add flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon. Whisk honey, oil, egg, yolk and orange peel in small bowl to blend. Add to dry ingredients and stir until dough just begins to hold together (if dough seems firm and dry, let stand 10 minutes to soften).

Turn out dough onto lightly floured work surface. Add remaining 3/4 cup almonds and knead to distribute evenly. Divide dough in half. Roll each half into 12-inch-long, 2-inch-wide log. Place logs on prepared sheet, spacing 4 inches apart. Bake until firm to touch and dark brown (logs may crack), about 40 minutes.

Cool logs on sheet on rack 15 minutes. Transfer logs to work surface. Using serrated knife, cut logs diagonally into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Place cut side down on same foil-lined sheet and bake until light brown and dry, about 12 minutes. Cool on sheet on rack. (Can be made 1 week ahead.Store airtight at room temperature.)