Hiking Scotland’s West Highland Way
Self-Guided Itinerary
Drymen to Fort William, Scotland
The completion of The West Highland Way, one of Scotland’s classic long-distance foot paths, was in 1980. Taking almost 20 years to complete, it offers some of Scotland’s most spectacular scenery. Beginning near Scotland’s largest city, Glasgow, and following alongside Britain’s largest body of inland water, Loch Lomond, the route ends in Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain. The Scottish Highlands and Lowlands are separated by the Highland Boundary Fault, which runs through the middle of Loch Lomond, creating both a contrast in geology as well as human history of the two areas. Along this 95-mile route through Scotland, you will hike through a variety of landscapes; moorland and heath, river valleys and farmland, mountains and woodlands.
Traveling on foot is a wonderful way to experience Western Scotland. You’ll stay at old inns, small hotels, and B&B’s. After a hearty Scottish breakfast each day, you will set off toward your next destination, either picnicking along the way or enjoying the hospitality of local pubs and restaurants. From village to village, from the central lowlands to the heart of the Highlands, you’ll have the opportunity to explore this route while at the same time enjoying the changing landscapes from day to day. Spending two nights in Rowardennan on the shore of Loch Lomond will give you the opportunity to climb Ben Lomond (3,195 ft), one of Scotland’s notable Munro’s, a mountain over 3000 feet high. The route will end in Fort Williams at the foot of Ben Nevis, the official end of the “Way.”
Itinerary
CHAMPS
September 10 – 19, 2015
Location: Western Scotland
Length: 10 Days
Accommodations: Inns, small hotels and B & B’s
Grade: moderate and some strenuous
· At note about the difficulty of this hike: this hike is not as strenuous as Slovenia, however it is not easy. We grade it moderate with some strenuous. All hikers need to be comfortable on varied terrain including roots, rocks and cobbled roads. We have done our best to describe the terrain but it is impossible to be exact. There are taxi options each day should you opt to take a day off.
Day 1: September 10: Arrive Drymen
Private group transfer from the airport to Dryman, travel time is about 45 minutes. This village, with its quaint village green, boasts one of the oldest registered pubs in Scotland, established in 1734. Overnight at a country house hotel located in a quiet part of town not far from the village square. The hotel has an indoor pool with sauna, steam room, and spa facilities. Dinner and breakfast included.
Day 2: September 11: Dryman to Balmaha
Leaving Dryman on foot you join the West Highland Way footpath just outside of the village. Walking on a wide track the route ascends gradually through the Garadhban Forest as you approach the first major climb of the route, Conic Hill (1184’). From the top you’ll have great views of Loch Lomond and the mountainous Scottish countryside. After a steep descent you will arrive in the small village of Balmaha on the shore of Loch Lomond. Britain’s largest body of water, 23 miles long, Loch Lomond was formed by a glacier about 10,000 years ago. Elevation gain: 1,700’; Elevation loss: 1,000’; Distance: 7 miles; Hiking time: 4 - 5 hours. Breakfast included, dinner on your own, there is a pub and a restaurant to choose from at the inn. The inn has more than one building and you may be in staying in a building that is a five minute walk from the main building. There is a national park visitor’s center just across the street.
· Hiking Terrain: The route today begins on a dirt path alongside a road, then it climbs gradually on a dirt road. When you reach Conic Hill the trail becomes narrower, a hiking trail, with some rocks and with some rock steps built in. The route down to Balmaha is steep, but not long, with a series of narrow stone steps, like a roman road, and then dirt steps as you enter the forest and finish on a nice gentle path.
· Alternate Transportation Options: Local taxi in Drymen or bus service to Balmaha. It is 4.2 miles by road. The taxi cost about £8.
Day 3: September 12: Balmaha to Rowardennan – two nights in Rowardennan
Your day begins with a side trip to the small island of Inchcailloch, where there are a number of trails, and beautiful views looking back at Ben Lomond and down the length of Loch Lomond. There is a small ferry to the island which takes about 10 minutes. One of the five islands at the mouth of the Endrick River managed as a nature reserve, Enchcailloch, “a jewel in Loch Lomond”, is well worth the trip. This side trip takes about 2 – 3 hours.
· Hiking Terrain: The trails on island of Inchcailloch are dirt hiking trails, nicely graded with some ups and downs, but with easy footing.
Once the ferry has brought you back to Balmaha, the route to Rowardennan follows along the “bonnie banks” of Loch Lomand, with its native woodlands, rocky coves and small beaches. You should reach Rowardennan with some time to explore and relax. Elevation gain: 1400’; Elevation loss: 1291’; Distance: 7 miles; Hiking time: 4 - 5 hours. The hotel is located on Loch Lomond, and Breakfast and dinner included.
· Hiking Terrain: Hiking to Rowardennan from Balmaha is a combination of road, some sandy beach, a small hill in the beginning, and then the last couple of miles up and over a series of small hills. The footing is gentle, though when you reach the series of hills there are some ascents on stones, with some roots.
· Alternate Transportation Options: Local taxi available for transfer Rowardennan; it is 6.5 miles by road. The taxi cost about £16
Day 4: September 13: Hike Ben Lomond and return to Rowardennan for a second night
In 1891 Sir Hugo Munro published the first list of all Scotland’s peaks over 3,000’. Until then there had been much debate as to exactly how many 3,000’ peaks there actually were in Scotland. Since then these peaks have been referred to as “The Munros”.
Ben Lomond, (3,195’) is the most southerly of Scotland’s Munro’s. It stands high above Loch Lomond and is the first real mountain you will pass along the West Highland Way. There are two routes to the summit, which you may hike as a circular route, hiking up one of them and down the other. If you prefer a shorter hike you may hike the main route up the mountain and turn around and come back the same way at any point. From the summit of Ben Lomond, there are superb views of both the Highlands and the Lowlands. Elevation gain: 3,045’; Elevation loss: 3,045’; Distance: 7.5 miles; Hiking time: 6 hours. Returning to the Rowardennan. Hotel for a second night, dinner and breakfast is included.
· Day Hike: This is and an “out and back” hike up Ben Lomond or a loop hike. If you opt for the out and back hike you can turn around at any time. The loop hike is a challenging hike, with longer distance and rougher terrain. Both are exposed the entire way.
· Hiking Terrain for out and back hike: The main route up the mountain is a wide worn rocky dirt path, with steady elevation gain, but very manageable. There is one short section in the beginning with a little scramble over rock slabs, but we don’t think it is too difficult.
· Hiking Terrain for Loop Hike: This route will add about 2 hours to your hiking time. It is less used, and more challenging. It is a narrow dirt trail and is steep in places. The last section, about 45 minutes to an hour, is over large boulders and stone steps to the summit.
Day 5: September 14: Rowardennan to Inversnaid and Transfer to Bridge of Orchy
Leaving the Rowardennan, your hike continues along the shores of Loch Lomond. This section is considered by many to be the most “arduous” section of the “Way”. There really is a high road and the low road, naturally. You will be hiking the more scenic of the two, which is the low road. The trail hugs the shore crossing sections encumbered by boulders and tree roots, but is well worth the effort.
The scenery is spectacular as you hike among an oak forest with views across the Loch, including the landmark of the “Cobbler,” a rugged mountain on the opposite side. You will arrive in Inversnaid, where there is a large hotel, for lunch. You may picnic, purchase a sandwich, or eat in their restaurant. Early afternoon around 2:00 o’clock you will board a ferry, crossing Loch Lomond in less than an hour, to Tarbet. Here, a private bus will meet you for your transfer to Bridge of Orchy. You will have the opportunity to a stop along the way at The Drover’s Inn, the oldest, and a very interesting pub in Scotland, where the waiters still wear kilts. It’s a 20 minute drive from the ferry terminal to the Drover’s Inn, and from the Drover’s Inn it is another 30 minutes to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel. Elevation gain: 1,000’; Elevation loss: 800’; Distance: 8 miles; Hiking time: 3 - 4 hours. Breakfast included, dinner is on your own. The hotel has a pub and a restaurant.
· Hiking Terrain: The first half of the hiking route to Inversnaid is a narrow trail right along Loch Lomond. It is undulating as it hugs the shoreline, with some short steep sections with rocks and roots, both up and down. The second half of the hike is on a wider trail, with more gentle footing, through some flat areas, and some gradual ups and downs.
· Alternate Transportation: To shorten the hike you can take the ferry, which departs from near the hotel, across the loch to Luss. Once in Luss there is a bus service to the small village of Tarbet. You may also ask the hotel to arrange for a taxi to meet you in Luss when the ferry arrives. It is in Tarbert where the hiking group will meet the private van for transfer to Bridge of Orchy.
Day 6: September 15: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
Today you will hike across the Black Mount through the most exposed and isolated section of the “Way.” The Black Mount is a high moorland plateau between the large mountains to the west and the Rannoch Moor to the east. Though a challenging day it is plenty rewarding with its beautiful landscape of the Highlands.
Leaving the hotel on foot, the route climbs up and over a small hill overlooking Loch Tulla and on to the Black Mount. From here the route climbs gradually to the summit, or the highest point of the moor, at 1500’ and then begins a long gradual descent into Kings House and the Kings House hotel. Built in the 17th Century, the hotel is believed to be one of Scotland’s oldest licensed Inns. Elevation gain: 1,480’; Elevation loss: 1,300’; Distance: 10 miles; Hiking time: 4 - 5 hours. Breakfast included, dinner on your own, they have a pub style restaurant.
· Hiking Terrain: This day begins with a short gentle climb, and then descent, on a dirt track, about an hour in total, if it is wet the dirt could be slippery. The trail then continues to the wide open moorland, it is a wide trail of dirt with rocks embedded in it, a natural cobblestone. The trail climbs very gradually to its high point of the day, then descends to Kingshouse with a medium grade.
· Alternate Transportation: It is possible to hire a taxi for a transfer to Kingshouse; 13 miles by road.
Day 7: September16: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Though today’s hike is a bit shorter it is still demanding as you cross over the highest point of the “Way” at 1850 feet. The climb begins with a gradual climb and then a descent as you approach the “Devil’s Staircase.” Not as bad as the name may suggest, the route follows an old military road built in 1750 by about 450 soldiers. The nickname comes from the switch back section near the summit.
As the long descent to Kinlochleven begins and the views of the Glen Coe Mountains are behind you, you will enjoy the new scenery that lies ahead: the ridges of the Mamores with the massif of Ben Nevis rising behind it. Elevation gain: 1,410’; Elevation loss: 2,200’; Distance: 9 miles; Hiking time: 4-5 hours. Dinner and breakfast included at the hotel.
The village of Kinlochleven came about because of an aluminum smelting plant built there in the early 1900’s, and the houses in the village were built to house the employees of the plant. A hydro-electric plant was built to power the smelter, along with the village, which became the first village in the world to have every house connected to electricity, it was nicknamed “The Electric Village”. It is also home to the world’s largest indoor ice-climbing wall, where if you like, you can give it a try.
· Hiking Terrain: The trail begins as a wide dirt path, climbing gradually before descending to the beginning of the Devil’s Staircase. The Devil’s Staircase is a series of switchbacks with occasional steps built in. In less than an hour you will reach the top, and the highest point of the Way. The descent to Kinlochleven begins as a wide dirt path, and gradually narrows until you reach a dirt road. The dirt road is well graded but steep, this will take you all the way to the valley. Just before reaching town the trail winds along the river and out onto the main street.
· Alternate Transportation: There is a bus service through Glen Coe to Kinlochleven, and it is also possible to hire a taxi; 18.5 miles by road.
Day 8: September 17: Kinlochleven to Lunarvra, overnight in Fort William – two nights in Fort William
The day begins with a climb of 900' arriving at the Lairigmor, the “great pass,” situated between high hills on the left and the even higher Mamores to our right. There are 11 Munros in this section of the West Highland Way. Because this section of the “Way” is 14 miles from Kinlochleven to Fort William, you will be met at Lunarvra, about half way, by a taxi and driven into Fort William. You will spend two nights in Fort William. Elevation gain: 1,000’; Elevation loss: 500’; Distance 7.5 miles; Hiking time: 3 - 4 hours. Breakfast and is dinner included. The hotel is located in the bustling center of Fort William, and not far from Loch Linnhe. Overnight in Fort William for two nights.