Choosing the Right Pot: By members’ request, from Chris’ session on potting from last September……...
“Gender” of Trees and Pot Selection
A so-called “masculine” tree gives an impression of strength, often possessing a heavily
tapered trunk, craggy, mature bark, and/or strong angular branching, it may have
deadwood. It may have a straight, powerful trunk or a dense canopy. A feminine tree
will have a more delicate appearance, a smooth trunkline, smooth bark, sinuous movement
in its trunk and branches and tending towards a light canopy and slow taper.
Some tree species are predisposed to being considered feminine or masculine; Pines or
angular Hawthorns are often considered masculine whereas delicate Japanese Maples will be considered
as naturally feminine. However, trees can have features of both genders…..or be considered androgynous.
The artisan then considers which is dominant: A strong, heavily tapered Japanese Maple with delicate
leaves and branching could be considered to be a feminine species with masculine features, whereas a tall
elm with craggy, rough bark, gentle curves and very gradual taper could be considered a masculine species
with a feminine characteristics. With trees such as these it is common to identify which is the dominant
aspect and replicate this in pot selection. Is it the craggy, fissured bark of the hawthorn or the gentle curves
of the trunk which have the strongest visual impact? Is it the delicate branching of the Maple or the powerful
tapered trunk that attracts your eye most? Fortunately, it is possible to find pot designs that can reflect
both femininity and masculinity. Pots are considered feminine or masculine. Deep pots with strong angular
features are considered masculine whilst more feminine pots are shallower with softer lines. For instance,
strong chunky, deep rectangles with sharp corners are very masculine pots, as are square pots. These are
suited to thick heavy trunked masculine trees, especially conifers. For thick-trunked deciduous trees, the
corners of the rectangle can be rounded thus reducing the masculinity of the pot a little. Working down
through the ‘scale of masculinity’, deep chunky ovals come next and then we have drums/round pots that
are androgynous i.e. are suitable for a masculine or feminine tree. The most “feminine” pots are often more
shallow delicate ovals and very shallow round literati pots. They tend to have a less angular or pronounced
rim. (Additional information provided by
In choosing the right pot for your bonsai, you should consider the colour of the tree and any flowering, height and
width of tree, thickness of trunk, and the style in which the tree is, or is to be, formed.
While it’s really a question of personal taste and aesthetics, here are a few “rules” and tips:
1. For oval or rectangular pots the length (widest dimension) the pot should measure 2/3 of the height of the
tree and no less than 2/3 the width of the canopy.
2. Some enthusiasts place emphasis on the symmetry between the leaf shape and the pot shape.
3. If “potting down” [=potting from a larger training pot or styro box to something of eventually MUCH less soil
volume], go gradually.
4. Consider the stage of development: if the tree is not entirely formed, you’ll want to provide slightly extra room
for a good root system in order to encourage the remaining desired growth.
5. Specifics of the species is also a factor: Japanese maples and crabapples often require deeper soil.
6. Also consider the physical support need of the tree and whether dedicated wiring holes are required.
7. Beware of pots with indentations in the bottom where water could pool and lead to root rot.
8. For tall slim trees, the pot should be less broad than the width of the branches.
9. With the exception of cascades, the depth of the pot should be equal to between once and twice the thickness
of the base of the trunk.
10. Traditionally, trees have been deemed ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’. Masculine trees are suited to more angular
pots, whereas feminine trees are more ‘at home’ in softer or rounder pots. (See item below….)
11. With very few exceptions, the pot should have at least one drainage hole. Consider the drainage needs of
the tree to be potted when deciding on number and size of drain holes. Ideally the pot should have ‘feet’ to
allow for proper drainage.
12. Regarding tree placement, for square, round (drum), and polygonal pots, placement in the centre; for oval or
rectangular pots, place tree off-center. (Note that style such as formal upright or slanting will also influence
placement.)
13. The pot should compliment the tree rather than diverting attention to the pot itself.
14. Regarding colors: dark green and dark blue work well with trees of striking colors [yellow, orange, red] in
flower, trunk or foliage. Grey or white pot: often for trees with a darker feature color (blue).
15. Traditionally pines and most conifers are best suited to unglazed pots.