Specification for Woven Fabrics for Uniforms

KS 08-541: PART 1: 2007

DRAFT KENYA STANDARD

Specification for woven fabrics for uniforms

Part 1.Cotton, man-made fibres and blends

PUBLIC REVIEW DRAFTNOVEMBER 2007

KENYA BUREAU OF STANDARDS (KEBS)

KS 08-541: PART 1: 2007

TECHNICAL COMMITTEE REPRESENTATION

The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee:

Sunflag Textile & Knitwear Mills Ltd.

United Textile Industries (K) Ltd.

Ministry of Works, Housing and Physical Planning – Supplies Branch

Bonar (E.A.) Ltd.

Manchester Outfitters Suiting Division Ltd.

Bubanks

Kenya Industrial Research and Development Institute

Ministry of Transport and Communications – Materials Branch

T.S.S Weaving and Spinning

Jaydees

Spinners and Spinners

Bedi Investments Ltd

Thika Cloth Mills

Specialised Towels Manufacturers

Kenya Bureau of Standards - Secretariat

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Foreword

The First Revision of this part1 of this Kenya Standard has been prepared by the Technical Committee on Woven Fabrics under the guidance of the Textile Industry Standards Committee and the National Standards Council.

The First Revision of this Part 1 of this standard specifies requirements for woven fabrics made from cotton, man-made fibres and their blends.

The fabric references allocated to the fabrics listed in Table 1 are intended to help a non-technical purchaser in making a choice of fabric type for his own end-usage. Appendix A is included to provide assistance in narrowing the choice still further, so that the non-technical purchaser is not overwhelmed by a vast array of technological data and fabric types.

During the preparation of this standard, reference was made to the following publications:

BS 1771: — Part 21990Fabrics for uniforms and workwear.

Part 2 – Specification for fabrics of cotton, man-made fibres and blends.

KS 08-520Specification for woven fabrics used for suits, jackets, slacks, trousers and shirts.

KS 08-116Specification for cotton drills (First Revision).

Acknowledgement is made for the assistance received from the above sources.

KS 08-541: PART 1: 1987

KENYA STANDARD

Specification for woven fabrics for uniforms

Part 1. Cotton, man-made fibres and blends

1Scope

This Part of this Kenya Standard specifies constructional details and other technical requirements of woven fabrics made from cotton, man-made fibres and their blends, used for making uniforms.

2Definitions

For the purposes of this standard, the definitions given in KS 08-209[*] and KS 08-210 shall apply.

3Requirements

3.1Yarns — The yarns used shall be of such quality as to produce cloths, which meet the requirements of Table 1.

3.2Construction — The cloths shall be constructed in accordance with Table 1.

3.3Selvedges — The selvedges shall be straight and firm.

3.4Finish — The cloths shall be finished to match the required patterns in respect to handle and appearance. The shade shall be uniform throughout.

3.5 Width — The width of each piece shall not vary at any place by more than one per cent below or two per cent above the declared or marked width. This shall be determined in accordance with KS 08-834.part 1

3.6 Length — The length of each piece shall not be less than the declared or marked value. This shall be determined in accordance with KS 08-834.part 2

3.7Colour fastness — the colourfastness of the cloth shall comply with the requirements of Table 2.

3.8Other requirements of cloth shall be in accordance with Table 3.

4Blended fabrics

Blended fabrics shall be manufactured from the mixture of staple fibres in accordance with Table 1 subject to a tolerance of  5 per cent. This shall be tested in accordance with KS 08-127.

5Grading

Each fabric shall be graded in accordance with KS 08-697: Part 1.

6Fabric references

The fabrics specified in this Part 1 of this standard have been allocated references, arranged so that the general end-usages and fabric types can be easily discerned. The key to the references and general descriptions are as follows:

C — 100% Cotton

CD — Cotton drill

PC — Polyester/cellulosic

TP —Textured polyester

CB — Cotton Bedford cord

PV — Polyester/viscose

N —Nylon

PS —Polyester staple

NoteMore detailed information about recommended end uses is given in Appendix A.

7Marking

7.1Pieces/rolls — The following information shall appear in legible and indelible marking on a label securely attached to the top layer of each piece or roll of cloth:

(i)Manufacture’s name or registered trade name.

(ii)Grade of the material in accordance with KS 08-697: Part 1.

(iii)Fibre composition of the fabric.

(iv)Width and length of material.

(v)Date of manufacture.

(vi) Care instructions in accordance with KS 08-68.

(vii) Fabric reference in accordance with table 1

7.2Bulk containers — The following information shall appear in legible and indelible marking on the outside of each bulk container:

(i)Information specified in Clause 7.1.

(ii)Total net length in meters.

(iii)Quantity of pieces or rolls.

Table 1 — Physical characteristics of woven fabrics

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5
Mass in g/m (min.) / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Thread per cm (min). / Breaking load in N on 50 mm x 200 mm strips (min.) / Tear resistance in N (min.) / Crease recovery angle in degrees (min.) / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft
C1 / 100% cotton / Plain / 31 / 20 / 90 / 511 / 231 / - / - / — / — / Stabilized
C2 / 100% cotton / Plain / 44 / 42 / 100 / 450 / 400 / - / - / — / — / Stabilized
C3 / 100% cotton / Plain / 42 / 24 / 110 / 576 / 295 / - / - / — / — / Stabilized
C4 / 100% cotton / Plain / 41 / 25 / 140 / 655 / 346 / - / - / — / — / Stabilized
PC1 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Plain / 45 / 39 / 90 / 570 / 380 / 60 / 55 / 120 / 120 / Stabilized, heat set, staple fibre spun
PC2 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Plain / 38 / 25 / 140 / 793 / 566 / 60 / 60 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, stabilized, heat set
PC3 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Plain / 41 / 21 / 170 / 1 285 / 620 / 60 / 60 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, stabilized, heat set
PC4 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Plain / 41 / 21 / 170 / 1150 / 580 / 60 / 60 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, stabilized, heat set

Table 1 — Physical characteristics of woven fabrics (cont’d)

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Thread per cm (min.) / Mass in g/m (min.) / Breaking load in N on 50 mm x 200 mm strips (min.) / Tear resistance in N (min.) / Crease recovery angle in degrees (min.) / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft
PC5 / 65% polyester 35% Cellulosic / Plain / 18 / 17 / 220 / 920 / 800 / 89 / 98 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, stabilized, heat set
PC6 / 65% polyester 35% Cellulosic / Plain / 31 / 22 / 240 / 1210 / 810 / 89 / 98 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, stabilized, heat set
TP1 / 100% polyester / Plain / 15 / 13 / 230 / 1840 / 1490 / 160 / 175 / 120 / 120 / Filament, false twist textured, heat set
PC7 / 65% polyester 35% Cellulosic / Twill / 34 / 23 / 140 / 665 / 715 / 88 / 87 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set
PC8 / 65% polyester 35% Cellulosic / Twill / 38 / 23 / 190 / 1000 / 555 / 67 / 74 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set

Table 1 — Physical characteristics of woven fabrics (cont’d)

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Thread per cm (min.) / Mass in g/m (min.) / Breaking load in N on 50 mm x 200 mm strips (min.) / Tear resistance in N (min.) / Crease recovery angle in degrees (min) / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft
PC9 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Twill / 30 / 17 / 220 / 1580 / 685 / 67 / 74 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set
PC10 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Twill / 20 / 20 / 245 / 1245 / 790 / 67 / 74 / 120 / 120 / Singles warp and weft, staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set
PV1 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Check as in Clause B1 / 22 / 19 / 230 / 750 / 640 / 100 / 94 / 145 / 145 / Staple fibre spun, singed, heat set
PV2 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Whip
cord as in Clause B2 / 29 (2 fold) / 19 (2 fold) / 382 / 710 / 710 / 155 / 110 / 135 / 135 / Staple fibre spun, singed, heat set

Table 1 — Physical characteristics of woven fabrics (cont’d)

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Threads per cm (min.) / Mass in g/m / Breaking load in N on 50 mm x 200 mm strips (min.) / Tear resistance in N (min.) / Crease recovery angle in degrees (min.) / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft
PS1 / 100% polyester / Twill / 32 / 23 / 260 / 1060 / 1050 / 80 / 65 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singles warp and weft, singed, heat set
TP2 / 100% polyester / Plain / 32 / 23 / 260 / 1060 / 1050 / 80 / 65 / 120 / 120 / Filaments, false twist textured, heat set
TP3 / 100% polyester / Twill / 28 (2 fold) / 24 (2 fold) / 220 / 1200 / 1200 / 80 / 65 / 120 / 120 / Filament, false twist textured, heat set
TP4 / 100% polyester / Twill / 27 (2 fold) / 23 (2 fold) / 235 / 1 400 / 780 / 80 / 65 / 120 / 120 / Filament, false twist textured warp, air textured weft, heat set
TP5 / 100% polyester or 80% polyester 20% nylon / Twill / 23 / 25 / 260 / 1 380 / 980 / 80 / 65 / 120 / 120 / Filament, air textured warp and weft
CD / 100% cotton / Twill / 54 / 36 / 360 / 1050 / 520 / 56 / 98 / Compressive shrunk, stitch finish

Table 1 — Physical characteristics of woven fabrics (cont’d)

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Threads per cm (Min.) / Mass in g/m(Min.) / Breaking load in N on 50 mm x 200 mm strips (Min.) / Tear resistance in N (Min.) / Crease recovery angle / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft
C5 / 100% Cotton / Bedford cord / 56 / 38 / 355 / 1220 / 510 / 57 / 108 / — / — / Compressive shrunk, stitch finish
PC11 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Basket / 44 / 18 / 120 / 480 / 320 / 45 / 34 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singled compressive shrunk, heat set
PS2 / 100% polyester / Basket / 27 / 31 / 240 / 1250 / 980 / 80 / 65 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singled heat set
C6 / 100% cotton / 5-end satin, as in Clause B3 / 36 / 25 / 280 / 980 / 620 / 56 / 98 / — / — / Bleached compressive shrunk, stitch finish
PC12 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / 4-end mock / 44 / 17 / 145 / 686 / 372 / 45 / 34 / 110 / 109 / Staple fibre spun, singed, compressive shrunk, heat set

Table 1 — Physical characteristics of woven fabrics (Cont’d)

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Threads per cm (Min.) / Mass in g/m(Min.) / Breaking load in N on 50 mm x 200 mm strips (Min.) / Tear resistance in N (Min.) / Crease recovery angle in degrees (Min.) / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Warp
PC13 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / 4-end mock / 39 / 27 / 160 / 892 / 421 / 65 / 57 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set
C7 / 100% cotton / 4-end mock / 28 / 16 / 180 / 745 / 363 / 33 / 18 / 101 / 116 / Bleached, stabilized, heat set
N1 / 100% nylon 6 or 6.6 / Plain / 27 / 22 / 120 / 1245 / 980 / — / — / — / — / Filament, semi-dull of full-dull, heat set
PC14 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Twill / 44 / 21 / 195 / 1450 / 630 / 88 / 87 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set
PC15 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Twill / 50 / 24 / 255 / 1790 / 990 / 88 / 87 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set

Table 1— Physical characteristics of woven fabrics

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9
Fabric reference / Fibre composition / Weave / Threads per cm (Min.) / Mass in g/m(Min.) / Breaking load in N or 50 x 200 mm strips (Min.) / Tear resistance in N (Min.) / Crease recovery angle in degrees (Min.) / Finish and other details
Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft / Warp / Weft
PC16 / 65% polyester 35% cellulosic / Twill / 38 / 15 / 265 / 2250 / 710 / 88 / 87 / 120 / 120 / Staple fibre spun, singed, stabilized, heat set
TEST METHOD / KS 08-127 / KS 08-212 / KS 08-121 / KS 08-120 / KS 08-119 / KS ISO 13937-4 / KS 08-269

Note

1While the threads per cm specified above to yield the required mass and breaking load, adjustment in this parameter is permissible in case the desired mass and breaking load are not being found achievable.

KS 08-541: PART 1: 1987

Table 2 — Colour fastness requirements

Agency / Numerical rating (min.) / Test method
Change in colour / Staining
(i) Light
(ii) Weathering
(iii) Washing
(iv) Perspiration (acid) and (alkali)
(v) Hot pressing
(vi) Dry cleaning
(vii) Rubbing
(a) Dry
(b) Wet
(viii) Peroxide washing / 6
6
4
4
4
4
4
4
4 / —
—
4
4
4
4
4
4
4 / KS 08-69 or KS 08-359
KS 08-263 Parts 1 and 2
KS 08-123 Methods 1 and 2
KS 08-129
KS 08-130
KS 08-122
KS 08-266 Part 1
KS 08-545

Table 3 — Dimensional change and other requirements

Characteristics / Fibre composition / Test method
Man-made and blends (man-made/cotton) / Cotton
(1).Dimensional change
(i) After 5 launderings
(a) warp(max)
(b) weft (max)
(ii) after 5 dry cleanings
(a) warp(max)
(b) weft(max)
(iii) After cold water immersion
(a) warp(max)
(b) weft(max)
(2) Water soluble matter (max.)
(3) PH value
(4)Pilling resistance(min)
After 5 hrs / 2.0 per cent
2.0 per cent
0.5 per cent
0.5 per cent
1.0 per cent
1.0 per cent
0.5 per cent
6.0 to 8.5
4.0 / 3.4 per cent
3.4 per cent
2.1 per cent
2.7 per cent
2.5 per cent
1.3 per cent
0.5 per cent
6.0 per cent 8.5
4.0 / KS 08-363
KS 08-122
KS 08-66
KS 08-264
KS 08-360
KS 08-438

Appendix A

Recommended end uses of fabrics

Table 4 gives the reference of fabrics recommended for particular end uses.

Table 4 — Recommended end uses

End use / Fabric reference
Shirts, blouses, school wear, dresses / C1, C2, C3, C4, PC2, PC3, PC7, PC12, PC13, PC1
Overalls, coats / C5, C6, PC4, PC5, PC6, PS2, PC8, PC9, PC10, PC11, PC15, PC16
Boiler suits / C5
Operating theatre drapes and clothing / C1, C2, C3
Workwear and uniforms / PC4, PC5, PC6, PS2, PC8, PC9, PC10, PC11, PC14, PC15, PC16
Laboratory coats / PC4, PC5, PC6, PS2, PC8, PC9, PC10
Uniform trousers / PV2, PC4, PC5, PC6, PC8, PC9,PC10, PC14, PC15, PC16
Nurses’ dresses / C1, C2, C3 C4, PC1, PC1, PC2, PC3, PC7, PC12, PC13
Men’s and women’s outwear, jackets, trousers and shirts / TP1, TP2, TP3, TP4, TP6, PC8, PC9, PC10, PC11, PC14
Suitings / TP5, PV1, PV2, PS1, PC8, PC9, PC10, PC11, PC11, PC14, PC15, PC16
Lightweight overalls / N1, C4, PC2, PC3, PC7, PC8, PC12, PC13, C7
Breeches for riding / CB1

Appendix B

Weave constructions

B1Fabric PV1

The construction of fabric PV1 shall be shown in Figure 1

B2Fabric PV2

The construction of fabric PV2 shall be as shown in Figure 2.

B3Fabric C6

The construction of fabric C6 shall be as shown in figure 3.

NoteThe conventions used are in accordance with KS 08-212.

N = warp thread up.

FIG 1 FABRIC CONSTRUCTION OF PV1

NOTE: The conventions used are in accordance with KS 212

FIG 2─FABRIC CONSTRUCTION OF PV2

NOTE: The conventions used are in accordance with KS 212

FIG 3 ─ FABRIC CONSTRUCTION OF C6

A list of Kenya Standards referred to:

KS 08-66Dimensional changes of fabrics by cold water immersion.

KS 08-68Textile care labeling code.

KS 08-69Method for the determination of colour fastness of textile material to daylight.

KS 08-116Specification for cotton drills.

KS 08-119Method for determination of breaking load elongation (strip method) of woven fabrics.

KS 08-120Method for determination of mass per unit length, and mass per unit area of woven or knitted fabrics.

KS 08-121Methods for determination of threads per centimeter of woven fabrics.

KS 08-122Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to dry cleaning.

KS 08-123Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to washing.

KS 08-127Methods for the quantitative chemical analysis of binary fibre mixtures.

KS 08-129Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to perspiration.

KS 08-130Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to hot pressing.

KS 08-209Glossary of terms relating to man-made fibres and fabric industry.

KS 08-210Glossary of terms relating to fabrics made from natural fibres.

KS 08-212Definitions of general terms, basic weave, and plans for drafting, denting and lifting.

KS 08-263Determination of colourfastness of textile materials t5o weathering.

KS 08-264Methods for estimation of moisture total size or finish, ash, fatty matter and determination of water soluble matter in textiles.

KS 08-266Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to rubbing.

KS 08-269Method for determination of crease recovery of fabrics.

KS 08-359Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to artificial light (xenon arc).

KS 08-360Methods for the determination of p values of aqueous extracts of textile materials.

KS 08-363Method for determination of dimensional change of woven fabrics on commercial laundering near the boiling point.

KS 08-437Method for determination of tear resistance of woven fabrics by falling pendulum (elemendorf) apparatus.

KS 08-438Method for determination by pilling resistance of fabrics (brush pilling tester)>

KS 08-520Specification for woven fabrics used for suits, jackets, slacks, trousers and skirts.

KS 08-545Method for determination of colour fastness of textiles to peroxide washing (sodium perborate).

KS 08-697: Part 1Code of practice for grading of textile materials.

Part 1. Fabrics.

KS 08-834Test methods for determination of dimensions of woven fabrics.

[*] The titles of Kenya Standards referred to in this Kenya standard are listed on the last page of this standard.