Greetings from Melaka, Malaysia
Hi there! I came by bus from Singapore crossing the border and up to Melaka in Malaysia.
This town has some serious history. It has been conquered and controlled by many different people in its past – the Muslims from Sumatra and Java were booted out by the Portuguese, then came the Dutch, the British had a go and finally the Japanese before it became part of an independent Malaysia.
As a result the architecture, the food and the traditions are all mixed up.
I am woken by the sound of the call to prayer from the mosque and the scent of incense fills the air. There are distinctive districts such as Little India, Chinatown and the Portuguese settlement but they are really all just mixed up. One of my best afternoons out last week was a visit to a real Malay home that has been kept in its original style and I was shown around by an elderly family member.
I have a big problem here in Melaka – I haven’t stopped eating! I can’t find any snacks or small meals or salads so I am eating full meals for both lunch and dinner. When I eat in the Indian way with just my hands, much of my food ends up on my shirt but it makes no difference – I am still putting on weight!
I am trying to counteract this by joining a cycle tour each evening which is organised by my hostel but as these usually end at a restaurant I am not sure how much good they are doing.
Some of us went along to a palm wine shop last Sunday. Now THAT was interesting negotiating our way back on bicycles through the city traffic but luckily we all somehow survived.
One of the best features of Melaka is the riverside. The riverbanks have been turned into a really pleasant safe place to walk, even at night. Flowers are everywhere and colourful street art decorates the walls of the houses whilst small bars have set up tables and chairs and you can people watch to your heart’s content.
If you could come out here and join me I would take you to the floating mosque at dusk, we would gorge on asampedas, tosaimasala or mee goring. We would end by drinking a cocktail 42 storeys up in the skybar with views of the city and we would wind the night down with a cold drink by the canal.
You asked me if I get lonely when I travel alone. I am staying at a wonderful laid-back chilled hostel that should be called Hostel California. It’s one of those places where guests continue to extend their stay – often becoming staff members and definitely becoming friends. If I didn’t have my flight to Myanmar booked for next week I would seriously consider working here too.
When I stay in hostels such as this one with such a wonderful atmosphere, great staff and interesting guests there is little chance of ever getting lonely.
Each morning a few of us set up ‘office’ in reception and work on our laptops before heading off to lunch together, and late evenings are spent lounging around on the roof terrace debating the finer things in life; such as Donald Trump, the European Union, whether margarine is made of petrol or coal and we discuss food. Always food!
I do have a funny food story for you.
I went into an Indian restaurant where I hoovered up the Friday lunchtime special – 11 different curries, plus rice served up on a banana leaf and eaten with the fingers.
Included in the meal was supposed to be soup, buttermilk and a desert but every time I indicated to the man who was serving them that I wanted mine, he shook his head and walked away.
Getting to the till I told the lady that I would be paying less because I had not received all of my set meal.
She had the BEST excuse ever.
We don’t give the soup and buttermilk to Westerners. They don’t like Indian food!!!
When I called her out on it and said ‘I have just eaten 11 different Indian curries and I am taking the remainder home with me because it is so delicious and I love Indian food and that is why I am eating in an Indian restaurant’ she realised what she had said, laughed and said I could try some if I liked.
I told her to poke it and I would be telling Trip Advisor!
It’s weird because when I was here with my friend Belinda (from Singapore) we couldn’t find anywhere to eat. Everything was closed, but it must have been some sort of a holiday.
Each weekend the city is transformed into some crazy tourist magnet with its big Jonker Street Night Market. Roads are closed and the food-carts are wheeled out.
I have been to bigger and better night markets but this one has a certain charm as the traditional community centres that line the street host traditional Chinese activities.....such as line dancing, karaoke and even a string orchestra.
I must end this postcard now as we are getting ready to cycle up Chinese Hill where we will sit and watch the sunset and dodge the bats that are as big as blackbirds. And then of course it will be time for dinner.
I wonder what I will choose tonight.
Teppan chicken rice, nasilemak or Nyonyalaksa?
Take care; and assuming the political situation is ok I will send my next postcard from Myanmar.
Love from Jane (Scarlet Jones)