1920's Wardrobe in A Weekend
Supply List
Session 1: Lingerie
During the first session on Saturday, we will make one or more of the following projects. Beginners may wish to stick with just the envelope chemise, while intermediate costumers will likely be able to finish both the chemise and the bra. Advanced costumers wishing to make the corset should plan to start with that and do the other projects only as time permits, since getting a good fit for the corset can be time consuming.
Project #1Envelope Chemise (difficulty level: beginner)
Suggested fabrics: cotton sateen or lawn, handkerchief linen, china silk
Yardage requirement: 2 yards
Other requirements:
- 2 snaps
- 2 yards narrow (¼” to ½”) lace for leg openings (optional)
- Optional: 2 yards (1” or more) lace “beading” for top edge and straps and 2 yards narrow ribbon to thread through
Project #2Eaton's Catalog1921 Ladies Brassiere (difficulty level: intermediate)
Suggested fabric: firm cotton (batiste or sateen)
Yardage requirement: 1 yard
Other requirements:
- 4 ½ yards bias binding (or add fabric to make your own)
- ¼ yard elastic (2-3”wide, or 2 sets of 2” wide bra-back repair)
- 3 yards 1/8” ribbon to thread through top binding
- 1 package ¼” wide elastic to thread through bottom binding
- 1 package plastic feather boning (optional)
- Six hooks and loops (or 2 sets 2” bra-back repair, as above)
Project #3Corset/Girdle (difficulty level: advanced)
Suggested fabrics: canvas for mock up, coutil or very firm, non-stretch cotton twill for final
Yardage requirement: 1 yard of each (you may also wish to buy 1 ½ yards of a fashion fabric, such as satin brocade, if your coutil or twill is very plain.
Other requirements:
- 2 yards ½” elastic for garters
- 1 package of 4 detachable “hose grips”
- Eight ½” flat buttons for side front closure
- Six 15” metal or spiral bones (1/4” wide), plus two to four 11” bones if you desire extra tummy support*
- 6 yards ¾” satin ribbon for garters and closures
- 4 yards bias binding (or cut from extra fashion fabric)
- 32 size 00 grommets*
- 8 yards corset lacing or ribbon
*Limited quantities of grommets and boning will be available to purchase on Saturday if you are unable to buy ahead. They, along with corset lacing, can be ordered at corsetmaking.com. A size 00 grommet setting kit will be available for use if you do not have one.
Session 2: Day Dress
The second session on Saturday will cover Mary Brooks Picken's famous “One Hour Dress” system of the mid-1920s, which offers endless variety with simple changes to the basic kimono shape. There are one piece and two piece options, with straight skirts and full skirts, employing many varieties of trim and contrast fabrics. The difficulty ranges from beginner to advanced depending on which specific design you choose. The pictures below are just some of what is possible.
Suggested fabrics: Cotton, light weight wool crepe, silk crepe, dupioni, chiffon, or china silk, rayon (for purposes of this class, avoid charmeuse or similarly slippery and difficult to work with fabrics).
Yardage requirements: 4 yards to make the basic design with a straight skirt, or 6 yards to make a fuller skirt or drapery. If you desire a contrast fabric, you may want to bring at least 2 yards of each fabric for a straight skirt, with an additional yard or two of the bottom fabric if you want a full skirt.
Optional: 3 yards bias binding for finishing neckline and sleeve, or make your own.
Session 3: Accessories
The first session on Sunday morning will cover some essential accessories for day and evening. With the exception of the evening wrap, you may have enough scraps left over from your dress projects to make these to match without having to buy more fabric.
Project #1 Small Hand Bag for Day or Evening (difficulty level: beginner)
Suggested fabrics: any crisp light to medium weight fabric including silk, linen, wool or cotton
Yardage requirements: 5/8 to 1 yard
Other requirements: 2 ½ yards 3/8” to 5/8” ribbon or cord
Optional: 1 yard 3/4” to 1” wide decorative ribbon for exterior casing (or skip this and make an interior self casing)
Project #2 Evening Wrap (difficulty level: intermediate)
Suggested fabrics: taffeta, chiffon, satin, burnout velvet
Yardage requirements: 3 ¾ yards
Project #3 Cloche Hat (difficulty level: intermediate to advanced)
Suggested fabrics: anything medium weight for the hat body, satin or cotton for the lining. If your fashion fabric is thinner than medium weight, plan to use a corduroy, denim, or similar weight fabric as an interlining. 100% wool felt is a perfect choice for the body of your hat or for an interlining (sometimes available at Joann Fabrics).
Yardage requirements: ½ yard fashion fabric (and interlining if needed), ¼ yard lining.
Optional: buttons, ribbon, flowers for trim
Session 4: Evening Dress
Project #1: French Magazine Dress- Cinq Rectangles = Une Robe (difficulty level: beginner)
Suggested fabrics: satin crepe, crepe Georgette, lace or metallic lace with a silk lining, anything soft that will drape nicely
Yardage requirements: 2 ½ yards for most sizes (see note)
Note: This is a wrap dress designed as a one size fits most. The original pattern is cut from 44” wide fabric. If you have a larger figure and are concerned that it might not be full enough, you could either choose wider fabric (54” or 60”), or purchase 3 ¾ yards of the 44” fabric, just to be safe.
Project #2: One Hour Dress, evening version (difficulty level: all, depending on design choices)
Suggested fabrics: anything silky or draping, including soft velvets, or lace or metallic with a solid lining
Yardage requirements: Same as for one hour dress, day version.
Note: Fabric choice is the most important thing to take the one hour dress from a day to an evening look.
Project #3: Draped Dance Frock (difficulty level: intermediate to advanced)
Suggested fabrics: Taffeta, silk dupioni, anything a little bit crisp
Yardage requirements: 5 yards for main body of dress, 2 ¼ yards of a contrasting fabric for the interior of the skirt (it will peak out at the bottom because of the shape of the hem), and the bow
Other requirements: 2 yards muslin to drape the blouse