Nigel Gallop bought a 160 acre block in 1998 after selling his company and retiring from the IT world. He spent time working in California and clearly loves red and white wine from Bordeaux, hence the inspiration for Fraser Gallop Estate.
The vineyard, cellar, house and wine team represent an obviously large investment, and Nigel, whilst being closely involved in day-to-day running of the estate seems to know where to back off, enjoy his semi-retirement and leave his team to do their work. The arrival of Clive Otto in 2007, one of the most widely respected and experienced winemakers in Margaret River coincided with maturing vineyards, and the lift in quality with the 2007 vintage, combined with maturing vines and a great vintage, is dramatic and impressive. Clive is a modest man, an incredible source of knowledge about the region, winemaking in general, and was completely open with us about the work he is doing to push the quality of these wine to higher levels. He was particularly fascinating to listen to when we were discussing the different components we tasted which will contribute to the final blend of the 2009 Cabernet.
This Fraser Gallop Cabernet block lies on the Metricup Road at Wilyabrup, the “Golden Mile” of Margaret River. Metricup Rd runs East West from Caves Road to the Busselton Highway, and Fraser Gallop has illustrious neighbours on all sides: Cullen, Moss Wood, Pierro, Lenton Brae, Woodlands, Woody Knook. All the pioneers were attracted by the gravelly loam soil over clay, identified with such enthusiasm by Dr John Gladstones in 1965. 50 acres are planted in total on the top of the ridge where gravel is deep, about a metre thick before the clay begins. Clay retains moisture during dry summer months, and the vineyard is unirrigated.
Early viticultural advice came from Keith Mugford at Moss Wood and the Cabernet Vineyard was planted on own roots, like most of MR, in 1999, producing a first vineyard in 2002. It is dry grown. The Haughton clone, probably a pre-phylloxera clone out of South Africa was used, as it is throughout the region, and is planted North-South at the north Eastern end of the property in a single block of 17 acres. A nearby small block of Cabernet franc, Merlot and Malbec is planted in E-W rows. Semillon was planted in 2007, supplying, from 2009 the fruit for the Semillon Sauvignon blend. The Sauvignon is sourced from a cooler site 40 km further south in Karidale, one of the estates for whom FGE offers contract wine making services.
Chardonnay was planted in 2002, one block with the Mendoza clone, the other an experimental block with a selection of Dijon clones, but this has since been taken out. First vintage was 2004.
Early vintages were made by Keith Mugford at Moss Wood, and Keith was succeeded by other contract wine makers until the arrival of Clive Otto in 2007. With Clive’s input, the new winery was completed in time for the 2007 vintage, and Clive is now assisted by Kate Morgan. The vineyards, run with organic principles were planted by Paul Pavlinovitch who, with Geoff Yates looks after the viticulture on the estate. Between them this pair have pruned every harvest since planting.
Isabelle and I made this vertical with Nigel, Clive and Kate on 8th April this year at the estate, while our children were kept busy by Nigel’s very generous partner Dorothy.
Cabernet 2002
First vintage, made by Keith Mugford. A cool vintage, 1005 Ramon barriques.
Wide, browning rim, nose a touch stewy. Some sweetness on palete, but also a little lean and stewy. Finishes on quite dry tannins, a little green.
Cabernet 2003
Also made by Keith Mugford. A hot vintage
More depth of colour, browning is less apparent than on the 2002. More fruit too, with some attractive sweetness, but some raisiny notes too. Fascinating how this seems to resemble many 2003s from northern Europe
Cabernet 2004
Made by Frank Kitler at Vasse River. A fine vintage for all varieties
Classy nose. Savoury, meaty notes, with spice touches too. Sweet attack, with ripe red and black frit flavours, soft, mouth-filling texture. Notes of youth and maturity in great harmony with mature tannins, lovely balance and great length. Very good.
Cabernet 2005
Made by Frank Kitler at Vasse River. Warmer vintage than 2004 (CS 90%, CF4%, Me 3% PV 3%)
Full ripe colour, not showing much development. Sweet spice notes on nose with something a little green behind. Faintly astringent on palate.
Cabernet 2006 Very cool vintage. Latest ever start to harvest. CS 86%, CF4%, PV6%, Ma 4%
Made by Ian Bell, Glenmore
Lighter in clour than 2005 and 2006. Attractive perfume, touch of confit fruit. Charming, cool wine, less obviously Cabernet. Quite distinct from the others, but a very elegant, well-balanced wine.
Cabernet 2007
Warm vintage. Made by Clive Otto at McHenry Hohnen winery, but with equipment, including press and turbo pigeur already purchased for the new winery. CS 88%, PV 5%, CF4%, Ma 3%
Deep crimson. Looks young. Big fat ripe nose, but classy, polished. Smells expensive. Distinct Medoc-like feel, albeit riper. Thick dark, black fruit. Super ripe. Perhaps the faint hint of something a touch over ripe, but very voluptuous. The wine is open and expressive, but seems very young. Great future for whatever is not drunk young.
Cabernet 2008
First wine made in new winery by Clive Otto. CS85% CF6.5%, Me 6.5%, Ma 2% A warm, classic MR vintage, but
Deep crimson. Young. Nose more closed than 2007. Some cedary notes, black fruit: ripe plums, lead pencils. Tannins seem strong at the moment: firm and crunchy. Wine relatively closed at this stage, from recent December bottling.)
Cabernet 2009
Warm vintage, ideal conditions for Cabernet.
Several different components which will make up the final blend: All have a 3-4 day cold soak before fermentation begins. All do the malo in barrel with the exception of component 3 of the Cabernet Sauvignon.
CS 1 This was barrel fermented in new Troncais oak. Sweet oaky nose. Quite flashy.
CS 2 – This was pressed off when dry straight into tank and micro oxygenated for 5 days to fix and stabilise colour: Tannins much firmer, thick-textured, spicy, classy
CS 3 - Long skin contact of 40 days with chopped up oak staves, roasted at local bakers and put into large bags: Rich ripe nose. Sweet dense creamy notes, but big thick tannins. Very dense. The main body of the wine.
CS 4 – As above but no oak staves: Sweeter attack, but drier, leaner, firmer on mid and end palate.
CS 5 – Open ferment, beginning with wild yeast then seeded with yeast culture: Thick texture, sweet, really broad. Gentle, easy tannins, floral notes. The easiest of the 5 CS components to taste at this stage.
Malbec – Used for aromas and “front palate tannin” : rich viscous texture, sweet fruit notes. Great perfumed aroma on nose and palate.
Merlot – Sweet plump nose but with some green overtones (?)
Cabernet Franc – sweet tasting, quite confit fruit. Definite over ripe notes. Not much typicity (?)
Petit Verdot – Perfume with big tannin and acidity. Easy to see what this will contribute to the overall blend