WDSC 2005
Convention Review
Day 1:
By Frank Robson
Three years ago there was a new entry in the technical calendar of the drinks industry with the birth of the Worldwide Distilled Spirits Conference in Edinburgh.
It was a successful initial event – but was it a foundation that could be built upon to create an ongoing forum for the technology of international spirits production? /
The venue: The Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa.
Edinburgh Castle, perched high on an extinct volcanic outcrop.
The Conference of 18–22 September 2005 has answered that question in a hugely positive way and the Scottish Section of the IBD, under the Chairmanship of James Brosnan, deserves congratulation for this achievement. I suppose the fundamental questions, which must have exercised a few minds, were whether the impact of the first conference had been sufficient to attract a wider audience three years later and whether enough papers of quality could be found to fill a three day programme.Certainly the impact of the 2002 event was greatly helped by the production of the proceedings in book form– a volume which no company bookshelf in the industry could afford to be without.Many, who did not attend, will have read these proceedings and been stirred into action for the second conference. There were about 200 delegates for the first gathering with representatives from fourteen countries outside the UK.
The 2005 conference attracted no less than 305 delegates from twenty three countries – a response which surprised even the organisers. The event was fully subscribed and 35% of the audience came from overseas.These are indeed impressive statistics and, while one can never measure the influence of the Institute’s change of name in terms of the appeal of the conference, there is no doubt that the Institute of Brewing & Distilling has entered a new phase of development with renewed and obvious emphasis on distilling.
The lecture programme, which included a high proportion of invited speakers, had been put together by Professor Graham Stewart of the International Centre for Brewing & Distilling (ICBD) at Heriot–WattUniversity and his programme committee. Creating a programme covering the different spirit categories with a blend of academic, production and quality issues is no mean balancing feat and with an audience predominantly made up of production staff, the one certainty is that all topics will not interest the whole audience. But the balance seemed to work and most attendees to whom I spoke seemed pleased with the programme and were able to identify highlights without difficulty.
While the success of such a conference hinges around the technical papers there has to be a significant package of other attractions and activities and the Organising Committee had worked hard to achieve this. There was a table-top exhibition with seventeen companies participating, a day for technical visits, a reception, a banquet, a cocktail happy hour and an evening in medieval Edinburgh. Of particular importance was the role of sponsors described by varying levels of precious metal, who all deserve mention – Krones (platinum), Fermentis and Kerry Bio-Science (gold), ABB and Forsyths (silver) and Ethanol Technology who provided the conference satchel.
The choice of venue was the Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa just a few hundred yards from Princes Street and this proved to be both comfortable and popular.
Monday 19 September
The conference was formally opened at 8.30am on Monday 19th September by the President of IBD Dr Harry White, who emphasised the growing role of the Institute in providing qualifications for its distilling members.
Davis Rae (North British Distillery and Chairman SWA Cereals Committee) presented the first paper entitled:-
Sustainability in the cereals supply chain.
With diminishing CAP aid to farmers in the European Union there will inevitably be a drive to greater competitiveness in the world cereals market and farmers will seek to make the best returns they can from their land. Volatile prices for wheat and barley in recent years with considerable weather and yield fluctuations do not present an attractive future for the cereal grower. /
Conference Chairman
Dr James Brosnan (left) and IBD President Dr Harry White looking relaxed prior to the conference opening.
There tend to be at least two transactions in the chain from farmer to distiller with merchants and /or maltsters occupying the middle ground and each party endeavouring to maximise its return. The speaker’s view was that leaving this situation to market forces would not deliver sustainability and he recommended a review of procurement strategies with relationships being agreed for a minimum of three years and acceptable returns for each link in the chain. With this philosophy sustainability could be attained through commitment and shared values.
New techniques for checking the consistency of supplied cereals
were described by Vincent Beaumont (Irish Distillers). With careful calibration the NIR analyser can be used for OG, alcohol and final gravity determinations for Irish malt samples. The Rapid Visco Analyser (RVA) can be used to distinguish winter and spring barley varieties and the geographic origin of Irish barleys using mash viscosity characterisation. By combining NIR and RVA results and using multivariate analysis the classification of cereals into groupings could lead to better decision making on the intake of materials and on appropriate process adjustments.
Binod Maitin (UB Group India) gave a Survey of the trends in the Indian spirits market– a market of 124 million cases dominated by Indian produced whisky. New flavours are being sought and the herbs and spices, which are so integral to Indian cooking, are now finding their way into spirit based drinks. Cinnamon, fennel, aniseed, ginger, lime, cumin, tamarind and nutmeg were mentioned amongst others. Tea, which is high in antioxidants, is also available in alcohol mixes.
Many of these ingredients are linked with medicinal properties though these cannot be emphasised in the context of an alcoholic beverage. NPD strategies were carried out at speed and consumer response has been encouraging. The conference continued with a
presentation by an invited speaker, Matthew Morrell (CSIRO Plant Industry, Canberra, Australia) titled Opportunities for the manipulation of cereal grain quality for the distilling industries. Here we were plunged into the mysteries of plant genetics. In barley the search is underway for the genes which control starch, protein and enzyme production. While genetic manipulation is being used in the laboratory to identify the relevant genes this information is then used solely to direct research for genetic characters which can then be obtained by traditional breeding methods – so GMO crops will not emerge as the end product.
Matthew Morrell believed that the way forward for distillers was to define what they want from a cereal, place a value on that, and then engage in partnerships with research establishments. He was convinced that the vast potential offered by molecular genetics could be harnessed without the creation of genetically modified crops – a view which would allow brand managers to continue to sleep peacefully.
The use of proteomic analysis of distillers yeast was described by Derek Jamieson (Heriot–WattUniversity). Here was an attempt to understand at a molecular level what happens in a yeast cell during an industrial maize fermentation in a grain distillery. The yeast proteome analysed by electrophoresis and mass spectroscopy showed an identifiable peak in maltase, and increases in proteases and oxidative stress as well as a surprising increase inautofluorescence, which may be linked to stress response. /
The presentation on yeast from Suntory
scientists, Hidko Yomo and Yushi Noguchi was followed by good discussion from the floor led by their colleague Takeshi Yonezawa.
As if detecting the audience was becoming somewhat bewildered by the jargon and complexity of modern research James Bryce (ICBD, Heriot–Watt University) pitched his clear explanation of limit dextrinase activity at the production manager.
The revival of interest in this enzyme stems from the fact that it has been shown that it can survive kilning and mashing temperatures and goes on to play an important part in starch conversion.
To maximise yield the 5% of the starch content of grain which remains as non-fermentable dextrin needs to be broken down by limit dextrinase. This enzyme is linked with a proteinaceous inhibitor, which appears to be pH dependent, and at the lower pHs of fermented wort, say 4.4 limit dextrinase activity increases; but conversely the enzyme itself has optimum activity at a pH of 5.5. The use of backset, which lowers wort pH, and the difference in activity in flour as opposed to whole grain had been studied. Controlled release of limit dextrinase from the inhibitor at the right stage of the mash or fermentation may be the key to increasing alcohol production.
Two papers followed which underlined the diversity of the programme. Joao Bosco Faria (Sao PauloStateUniversity, Brasil) outlined studies which had been undertaken to create a distilled spirit from the residue of orange juice extraction. This so called “press liquor” could be fermented and distilled and with ageing produced a spirit of beverage quality. It had been concluded that this process, based on what is essentially a waste stream, offers a feasible business proposition.
From a potential product the theme moved to the well established
one of South African brandy.
Caroline Snyman (Distell, Stellenbosch) described her work linking base wine with finished brandy character. The distillers buy and mix base wines from over thirty sources; the wine is double distilled and the spirit aged for three years in French oak. Volatiles were analysed for the base wines, the distillate and the aged spirit and sensory assessments compared. /
Just some of the 305 delegates from 23 countries, with few empty chairs!
Statistical techniques showed correlations between the routine analyses of wines and their volatile compounds and good (fruity) and poor (herbaceous and woody) brandy quality. The speaker tantalised the conference with the promise of a tasting of a 12 year old South African product which had recently won the accolade of the world’s best brandy!
Distillers yeast seems to occupy centre stage in marketing drives at present. This stems from the movement to Active Dry Yeast (ADY) and the availability of yeasts which can deliver new flavour.
Exhibition stands were occupied by four yeast suppliers, namely Fermentis, Kerry-Bioscience, Anchor Yeast and Ethanol Technology.
Two papers came from the Fermentis stable. Charles L’Helgoualc’h dealt with yeast for fuel ethanol production. The choice of yeast strain is crucial with alcohol levels as high as 21% abv and processes which eliminate cereal cooking by the use of simultaneous saccharification and fermentation. Controlling nutrition and environment during propagation are important and rehydration of ADY is necessary for optimum performance.
Richard Munro spoke in more detail about ADY and compared its advantages anddisadvantages with pressed and cream yeast. Although the manufacturing costs are significantly higher and the viability lower, ADY has a shelf life of two years, can be stored at ambient temperature without bacterial deterioration, requires no additional plant and full analysis is available before delivery.
A new dry strain has been tested at both ICBD and SWRI at fermentation gravities of 1080 and has performed well. Speciality strains could offer opportunities for higher gravity fermentation and fermentation temperatures as high as 34 –38ºC as well as for new product development. Toll manufacture of individual distillery strains is already a reality in some countries.
After a full day of lectures the delegates enjoyed a very relaxing evening with the ghosts and ghoulies of medieval Edinburgh visiting the lower levels of the OldTown and partaking of a unique banquet.
Day 2:
Tuesday 20 September
There was no allowance for a late night with another 8.30 am kick off on Tuesday. First on the podium was Mark Lyons from the Alltech solid state fermentation plant in Mexico.
He described the origin and history of solid state fermentation which goes back four thousand years to Koji fermentation. SSF offers an inexpensive route for enzyme production and six yeast strains have been developed in the last three years which can grow on many substrates in both sold and liquid state to produce a range of enzymes. The micro-organisms are grown on wheat bran in trays and the enzymes then extracted and spray dried. As well as the commercial amylases and proteases used in the alcohol industry cellulases have become available. Use of these enzymes with distillers dried grains, where cellulose and lignin can be broken down, give a 42% increase in protein and a corresponding decrease in fibre.
Thus value can be added to a co-product which offers a means of increasing meat production.
Brian Higgs (Diageo) usedScotland as an example of the threats and solutions posed by environmental issues, though similar issues now arise in most countries. The threats come from firstly climate change (particularlywith floods and prolonged dryspells), secondly the distilling process itself with high energy and cooling water requirements and waste streams, and lastly, but by no means least, from legislation.He produced two interesting facts;the malt distilling industry is dissolving the equivalent of six pot stills per annum and the BOD produced by the industry in Scotland has a population equivalent which is equivalent to the population! He went on to give examples of the narrowness of some environmental legislation, which by failing to adopt a holistic approach can replace one effect on the environment with another.
One such case was extending the effluent discharge pipes on Islay at a cost of £2.5m. Removal of the effluent from near shore has apparently led to a decrease in marine invertebrates, which in turn has adversely affected the shallow water bird populations. Also transport of effluent to the discharge point has resulted in 5000 additional tanker journeys on the island. So a marginal improvement in water quality near the old discharge point has led to a greater overall environmental impact.
In tackling environmental issues distillers should be examining energy efficiency, looking into anaerobic digestion and considering the burning of biomass to create power. A major part of the provenance of Scotch whisky is the outstanding environment in which it is made and Brian Higgs concluded bymaking a plea for a fresh approach to environmental legislation because poor legislation simply led to defensive attitudes and investment to meet minimum requirements. / Cheers! Dr and MrsSandy MacGregor with Professor Graham Stewart prior to the conference banquet.
A possible alternative might be the investment of 75% of a potential compliance cost for a doubtful improvement in real and identifiable improvements in another environmental area.
Bob Hall (James and Son) heads a company which has had a long history in brewery and distillery coproduct handling and sales. His paper had a similar thrust to the one which dealt with the cereal supply chain, in that the co-products chain was suffering because of low margins. Distilleries had never had to cease production because of the failure to remove grains (though four companies in the UK have recently ceased to trade). With increasing competition from other feedstuffs and a decline in cattle farming, the merchants need longer term agreements and with open book policies he believed a more equitable and robust relationship must be possible.
The morning continued with discussion of a drink called pisco from Chile in a paper presented by Benoit Colonna-Ceccaldi (Pernod Ricard). Pisco is a muscatel grape based spirit with a fruity aroma and it is usually drunk with lime and sugar. Little is exported but it is a product thought to have wide appeal.
The key flavour compounds are terpenes such as linalol and geraniol.
He then moved on to cognac where the area of cultivation of the vines has some bearing on flavour.
The Ugri blanc grape variety now dominates in this process which uses ADY yeast for fermentation and a double pot distillation. Maturation begins with one year in new oak, the spirit then being transferred to another cask. Unlike whisky the casks are topped up annually with either water or spirit to reduce the interface with air. With brandy the contribution of raw material is more
obvious than with grain whisky.
Yeast returned to the stage with presentations by Hideko Yomo and Yushi Noguchi (Suntory, Osaka,Japan). Interestingly while Scottish distillers are moving away from the incorporation of brewers’ yeast the Japanese workers have demonstrated that in their whiskies’ brewers yeast has an influence on character. / Scottish Section stalwarts! Mr and Mrs Brian Eaton and Alan Barclay bring style to the final banquet!
Starved brewers yeast (after 72 hours of fermentation) was found to give fuller bodied new make spirit than was obtained with yeast harvested after 24 hours, indicating the importance of the physiological state of the yeast. Trials with UK ale yeast, Suntory lager yeast and ADY ale yeast in a pilot plant showed that the latter yeast produced spirit of complex character with higher fusel oils and lower fatty acid esters.