Actives Table

Material / Amount to use / pH compatibility / Temp. compatibility / Notes
Vitamins
Vitamin A Palmitate
INCI: Retinyl Palmitate / ≤1.0% / 6.0 – 7.0 / <40°C / Thickens epidermis, regenerates skin and boosts elasticity in the skin
d-panthenol
INCI: Panthenol / 0.5 – 2.0% / n/a / n/a / Hydrating for the skin and reduces irritation. Also good in hair products for hydration/conditioning
Ascorbic Acid
INCI: Ascorbic Acid / 2.0 – 5.0% / 3.5 – 4.0 / <40°C / Readily degrades in water. Water soluble. Anti-wrinkle and whitening agent
Ascorbyl Palmitate
INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate / ≤1.0% / 6.0 - 7.0 / <40°C / Oil soluble form of vitamin C. Anti-wrinkle and whitening agent
Vitamin E
INCI: Tocopherol / ≤2.0% / n/a / <40°C / Antioxidant
CoQ10
INCI: Ubiquinone / 0.01 – 0.05% / n/a / <40°C / Proliferates epidermal cell regeneration; decreases collagen degradation; reduces damage of photo-aging; reduces UV damage
Acids
Glycolic acid (99%)
INCI: Glycolic Acid / ≤ 5.0% / <3.85 / n/a / Alpha-hydroxy acid; effective to reduce pigmentation, fine lines and congestive skin disorders while improving skin brightness
Lactic acid (88%)
INCI: Lactic Acid, Aqua / N/a / <3.85 / n/a / Alpha-hydroxy acid; effective to reduce pigmentation, fine lines and congestive skin disorders while improving skin brightness
Salicylic acid
INCI: Salicylic Acid / ≤ 40.0% / <3.00 / n/a / Effective to reduce pigmentation, fine lines and congestive skin disorders while improving skin brightness. Generally less irritating than alpha-hydroxy acids
Material / Amount to use / pH compatibility / Temp. compatibility / Notes
Other Cosmeceuticals
Activated Charcoal
INCI: Charcoal Powder / ≤5.0% / n/a / n/a / Exfoliating and cleansing for oily and acne prone skin
Allantoin
INCI: Allantoin / 0.2 – 0.3% / n/a / <40°C / Skin smoothing, moisturising, anti-inflammatory
Alpha-arbutin
INCI: Alpha-Arbutin / ≤ 2.0% / n/a / <40°C / Whitening agent
Bee Venom Powder
INCI: Bee Venom / 0.002% / n/a / <40°C / Stimulates production of collagen and elastin for anti-ageing effects
Calamine
INCI: Calamine / ≤10.0% / n/a / n/a / Anti-itching, anti-irritant, soothing and antiseptic.
Hyaluronic acid (1% solution)
INCI: Aqua, Hyaluronic Acid / 10.0 – 50.0% / n/a / <40°C / Hydrating humectant for visible suppleness
Manuka Honey Flakes
INCI: Honey Powder / 1.0 – 5.0% / n/a / n/a / Healing, regenerating
Marine Collagen
INCI: Collagen / 0.5 – 5.0% / n/a / <40°C / Moisturising, strengthening, skin smoothing (anti-ageing)

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