Tongan Rock
A guide to rock climbing on Eua Island
Fangatave Beach
Whale Wall
The Whale Wall is the first wall you come to when you walk up from the beach access track, approximately in the centre of the wall is lump of rock shaped like a hounds head. The crag is around 70m high, the limestone is compact, smooth, steep and well featured. All routes stop below the sharp, slabby grey rock and thus do not top out. The routes are described below from right to left, which is the direction you’d walk when arriving at the crag.
Three Boys – 1 or 2 Pitches 19/20 55m
Originally climbed in a single pitch but can be split into two pitches. Start at the right side of Whale Wall where a large tree grows somewhat horizontally, start by climbing a gully behind the tree to a belay ledge at about 12m, 1 glue in and a large thread.
22m (6BR+anchor) Climb the groove to the right of the anchors, then the steeper, black pocketed wall past a tuffa. Continue up to a double anchor after bolt 6.
20m (6BR+anchor) Head diagonally right and up to a small roof, surmount this to get to a good standing position. Finish up the steep crossly wall to the anchor.
Descend in two raps back to the starting ledge. Tony Burnell, Jean Jack, August 5th 2016
Breached As Bro - 2 Pitches 23/22 55m
A whale breached, bellyflopping loudly just offshore during the first ascent of this route, giving the wall the imaginative name the “Whale Wall”.
P1 23 30m Climb several metres of black lichenous rock until a small ledge is gained, move up and rightwards avoiding steeper terrain then follow bolts up past a tufa handle bar, over a bulge to belay on a spacious ledge.
P2 22 20m The second pitch ascends the leaning brown wall above to a pumpy finish. Lower and belay the second from the ledge. Nathan Duxfield, Greg Jack 5th August 2016.
Tala – 50m – 2 Pitches 18/21 55m
Start just R of the Hounds Head rock at the base of the crag.
P1 18 23m (8BR) Climb up onto a ledge and move left to reach the black groove system, continue up till you can step out right onto a slab, go right again past 2 bolts to a ledge then straight up to a cave with belay station.
P2 21 20m (7BR) Move to the base of the stalactite at the left side of the cave, straight up this & the pocketed wall above & finally up the steep white streak to reach a belay station.
Descend in two raps. Tony Burnell, Jean Jack, 15th June 2017
On Some Far Away Beach – 2 Pitches 16/19 50m
P1 12 m (5BR) Start as for Tala but continue up the groove system to a large ledge.
P2 25 m (8BR) Go up slightly right off the stance to B1, right again along a wide break and up into a groove system, follow the groove up the wall to the bottom of a blue grey streak, climb the streak on pockets, after the final bolt go straight up before around left into a large cave and belay station.
Descend in two raps back. Tony Burnell, Jean Jack, 16th June 2017
Blowhard – 50m – 2 Pitches 16/18
P1 12 m (5BR) Start as for Tala but continue up the groove system to a large ledge.
P2 25 m (9BR) Move straight up off the stance B1, carry on pretty much straight up into a black recess go left then up and back right around a rock pinnacle. The wall steepens but the holds are huge to get you into the top cave and belay station.
Descend in two raps back. Tony Burnell, 24th June 2017
Thirty Four – 50m – 2 Pitches 19/19
Start at the very left side of Whale Wall in a short groove just right of the Fa tree approximately 12 m left of the hounds head
23 m (5BR) Climb the short groove and swing out left onto the face, go straight up past a large pocket and the rib above before moving diagonally right to gain another groove climb straight up to a DBA.
17 m (4BR) Start up the bulging pocketed wall to a short, sharp, grey groove, up this & the grey wall & the second anchor.
Descend in two raps back to the starting ledge. Tony Burnell, Jean Jack,11th June 2017
Anokula Wall
Skywalker - 3 pitches 17/22/23
This route follows the outside of the huge cave and cranks through a roof to ascend the pocketed orange headwall above. Skywalking was required before the first ascent.
P1 17 30m Starting downhill from the large cave where the lichenous south facing wall gives way to cleaner rock, climb up trending left to belay below a roof.
P2 22 15m Crank through the roof to a stance below the orange headwall.
P3 23 20m Navigate the slightly overhung, well-pocketed wall to clip the chains in a small recess below sharp grey rock. Nathan Duxfield, Greg Jack June 2017
“The White Shield” Haydan to name? - 3 pitches 16/21/25?
P1 16 15m Directly below the obvious flat white shield of rock you’ll locate a high first bolt. Climb past to an excellent flat belay ledge.
P2 21 25m Pull pockets up the left side of the white shield, getting surprisingly pumped. Keep something in the tank for the final few moves as you pull up left to a ledge below the arcing headwall.
P3 25? 15m Head up immaculate scalloped rock, trending left to a monster jug, then past a few more pockets to the chains in a recess above. Hasn’t yet been climbed. May need a few black holds cleaned. Jean and Greg Jack, June 2016
Purple pincer pocket puller - 2 pitches 17/22
The first ascensionist surprised a crab who had taken up residence in a damp pocket. Perhaps you’ll have the same luck..
P1 17 27m Climb up and past a branch into the sunshine, then jug haul perfect rock, finally moving right to belay on the arete.
P2 22 25m Head up and right around the arete on huge holds, then up steepening rock hold on to clip the chains. For full value, go direct up bomber brown rock, avoiding the sharper grey rock to the left. Nathan Duxfield, Greg Jack, June 2017
Blind Faith – 50m – 2 Pitches 20/23
Start as for Nat/Greg route just left of the big tree.
P1 20 22m (9BR) Climb up to and past B4 on N/G line, step right onto yellow coloured rock and go up into a wide brown and grey groove, at the second massive pocket on the left go rightwards around a pillar into some sharp holds, go up over the bulge to the mid anchor.
P2 23 18m (5BR) Step left from the anchor and climb the weakness past bolt 3 before moving left into a scoop with a bolt, continue up the steep, black, pocketed wall to a belay station. Descend in two raps back. Tony Burnell, 19th June 2017
Dreadnaughty - 2 pitches 18/23
Fun climbing up massive tufa, flowstone and stalactites to a high crux
P1 17 27m Near the base of large tree, climb broken looking rock until you’re above the canopy, then pinch your way up the lovely rock and flowstone above to belay below a large stalactite.
P2 23 25m Taking care not to snap off the stalactite that threatens to impale the belayer, either clip an extendable draw or sling something to gain easier terrain and a good rest, before pulling through a series of pockets, finally moving right to clip the chains from a fin of flowstone. Nathan Duxfield, Greg Jack, June 2017