WINDOWS
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:36:04 -0500
From: "Bartz, Paul" <s9d3452#mail.drms.dla.mil>
Subject: GMC: RE: Covers for front windows
Ralph:
I have one that goes over the outside of the windshield and driver and passenger side windows. It's perforated material so you can see out of it from the inside. Just the opposite at night with lights on inside the coach.
It cuts down the heat buildup through the glass very well. Came with both Velcro and snap mounting systems. I used the snaps, as the Velcro mounts adhere to the body of the coach and stand out like a sore thumb due to their size.
If you have wind wings, the cover can be made to accommodate them.
I got it from Chandler of Palm Springs, in CA. You should be able to find their ad in the back pages of the FMCA magazine or call 800 information. If that doesn't work, let me know and I have the number at home.
Paul Bartz
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ralph Edelbach [SMTP:edelbach#TCNJ.EDU]
> Sent: Monday, March 30, 1998 10:01 AM
> Subject: GMC: Covers for front windows
>
> HI GMCers:
>
> Now that hot weather has arrived, at least for a few days, I'm getting ready to order some covers/shades for the front windows. Seen the ones which go over the outside as well as those which fasten against the windows on the inside.
>
> Any suggestions about either one and good sources to check-out will be appreciated.
> Thanks and happy motoring.
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 00:11:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>
Subject: GMC: WIND NOISE
Took first 450-mile trip yesterday in my first GMC motorhome and heard lots of windnoise around the front windows. Is this normal or is there someway to reduce it. Am I incorrect in assuming that much of it comes from the outside mounted rearview mirrors? Is there a better and quieter outside mirror available? Any help will be appreciated.
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 17:18:32 EDT
From: CHill113 <CHill113#aol.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: WIND NOISE
You may be getting some wind noise from the sliding windows. Mine had a tendency to slide open slightly and leak air. The original window locks left something to be desired. I solved the problem by getting quarter inch or five eighths wooden dowel sticks and cutting to the right length to wedge between the bottom of the window and the front. I found I needed to put a screw in on the other end for it to wedge against. No air leaks now. You may also have worn window channels.
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 09:09:26
From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com
Subject: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?
I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side windows they move great. However, the two movable windows in the living area do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls the handle. It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've cleaned a bunch of dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped much. How do I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that should be used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).
Thanks,
Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
Hi Henry,
I would suggest using Silicone spray...I haven't used it on my GMC (only owned it for three days) but I have installed hundreds of sliding windows and doors in houses. That's what We use to spray the tracks. Talking about windows.... Mine need new seals, weatherstrip, etc. Anybody recondition these on there own? What does the job entail? My glass looks good except for a slight haze around the outer edges. If I tint the glass will that hide the haze? How easy is it to remove the windows and frames?
Thanks,
Rob
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:16:23
From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>
Subject: RE: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?
I understand from the manual that you can replace the seals without removing the windows. Golbys, cinnabar and Gateway have the material.
Thomas
You are right you can replace the seals without removing the window in theory. 3 of my windows had shifted from there original position. They are still not sealed well. None of my windows will move because someone shot silly cone into the seals to fix leaks. Looking for a different windows. Anybody got any good ideas. BTW Jim Bounds has the seals also. Patrick has the pics.
Take Care
Arch
We have re-channelled all of our windows. It is a easy but tedious job. For this job you do not have to remove the window, it is a push, pull and slide type job. It took the two of us to work as a team. We took an old piece of the channelling and had our local RV store match it. One of our mistakes was on one of the front windows. We did not clean the track really well, and it does not slide easy. We must have left a clump or some in the track.
Also a friend of ours that work for a car dealership says that really fine steel wool will remove haze on glass. Even though our windshield has haze around the edges, we have not tried this.
'73 Painted Desert
Les & Des mailto:lesndes#livingpraise.org
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 11:51:24
From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>
The haze on the glass is between the laminates. It can sometimes be removed by using two household irons one on each side. Haven't tried it yet, got this information from my brother who claims to have done it before. He works for General Motors. Irons on low heat will relaminate the glass to the strip of plastic between the glass.
I pulled my front side windows out last week and redid everything including the channel. The windows came out easily after all the trim was removed (not so easy and a pain in the a**). The windows glass, frame and every where else imaginable had been sealed, resealed and done
again with sill(y)cone. I disassembled the frame, glass and rubber gasket material carefully, removed all RTV crap and started fresh. 3M makes a great urethane glass sealer for use on windows. An auto paint store should have it in tubes for a caulking gun, about $10.00 a tube
but well worth it. I used the urethane sealer in the rubber channel to seal the channel to the glass and in the aluminum frame to seal the rubber to the frame. This worked well, but you need to use the sealer sparingly so as not to get it all over everything.
I then put a small bead of 3M Windoweld ribbon sealer around the opening to seal the frame to the coachwork. The ribbon sealer is about 1/4 inch in diameter (too thick) so you have to pull it like taffy to make it smaller 1/8 of a bead. Then put the frame in and adjust as needed. The
ribbon sealer remains pliable and soft to retain a seal and you can shift the frame slowly to get an exact fit.
This approach is time consuming but makes for a tight new seal. Silicone merely patches and over the years gives way and looks like #####. The new products to seal windows and leaks for autos is great stuff and there are a number of 3M products made specifically for the process. Use RTV in the bathroom and not on your auto windows. The bathroom dose not flex and move like our coaches do and silly cone does not fair well in that environment. 3M also makes a strip caulk for sealing all sorts of windows, light joints, body joints and small holes. The cost for a box (20 yds) again is around $10. If any one wants part #s let me know. A good auto paint supplier will have all of the goodies for window and leak repair. Just ask when it is slow. Afternoons between 2 and 4 during the middle of the week is good. Bring the coach and they love to come out and give all sorts of advice.
Marcus
Folks:
Has anyone on this net tried either of the above methods to remove this haze?
It is my understanding that the problem is caused by UV deterioration of the plastic laminate between the glass, a process similar to the oxidation that turns white plastic headliners yellow over time. Haze is fortunately not such an issue with newer windows which have laminates containing relatively effective UV inhibitors, but in the 1970's...well, plastics were still being perfected and heat & light eventually hazes those laminates.
However, it would be a real pleasure to find a method to remove this haze.... other than the expensive one of replacing entire windows!
Anneke
Houston
I haven’t tried this fix yet. But I will try it when I get the coach home to work on it. I think I will try using two hair dryers first as I think the irons may not work good because of the curvature of
the glass. However, I think its worth a try and I don’t think the heat will harm anything.
Rob
Rob,
The channel is the felt piece your window slides through in the frame. It is placed top, bottom and sides using one long piece of channeling. You do not have to remove the outer frame to accomplish this task.
Have fun.
'73 Painted Desert
Les & Des
I have been following your info seek for several days and have seen some good advise being given. In that light, I thought I would chime in with some helpful info.
If you refelt the driver & pass. sliders, I have found it prudent to remove the vertical bar on the edge of the slider and trim off an 8th of an inch or so to assure it does not drag on the felt and make it difficult to move. Take a 2x4, hold it against the edge of the trim and hit the wood with a hammer to push it off of the glass. Reins. it with the same wood block.
For the stop for the driver/pass. slider glass, turn a section of the felt over and install it at the end of the slider traveland up the back radiused corner to the top of the back corner of the fixed glass. That sure sounds complicated! Call me at work tomorrow if it was confusing.
As I believe ARCH said earlier, you will probably find 1 or more windows shifted forward. If so, you need to reset them with new butyl rubber tape. Drill an 8th" hole at the top & bottom of the vertical bar between the 2 pieces of glass and pop rivet it in place. Many coaches already have this but some do not. This keeps the fixed glass from shifting out of its position.
I have just gotten in the felt material which fits in the vertical bar. It is special in that it has 2 plastic seals in between the felt which help keep out water & wind. I had lost the part # for some time and have just recently researched & found it again. Call me if you need some, its cheap!
I also have a modified latch for the side windows that seems to work pretty well for late style windows. Golby has available latches for the driver/ pass. and early style windows.
If you need the screw/washer fasteners for the driver/pass. windows, I give those out for free, call me.
Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com
Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 19:10:52
From: "Mark Grady" <mgrady#npcc.net>
Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens (reply)
I'll look to see where, but I have a set we got years ago. They fit on the interior, and stick fast to Velcro that goes inside the windshield. They fit the front windshields and the back window.
We don't use them as much after we tinted the windows with 'limousine' type window tint. I actually am probably breaking the law in some states, but I double applied the tint, which does an excellent job. (All sides and back, but not the windshield.)
We kept only the sliding curtain behind the front seats, and use Plexiglas valances and accordion pleated shades on the side windows. During the day, all shades are in the stowed and locked and position, which gives a great view. The tint reduces heat gain, and keeps the interior private.
The only thing I'd change is that I used a smoke colored tint, and I'd opt for maybe something more reflective, (silvered) if I had a do over. I think that would even further reduce heat gain by reflecting it, rather than making the glass get thermally hot because it's dark colored.
I'd see if you can find a patio door type of heat reflective film rather than the automotive style, and if its not dark enough, put another layer on about a week later.
It works fine, you just need to be careful when you put it on. No cutting on the glass.
Good luck.
Mark
Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 19:30:37
From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com
Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens (reply)
3M makes a high performance "bronze" tint that is twice as effective at reflecting light (and particularly those wavelengths most responsible for heat) as compared to the smoke tint. I just had one vehicle done with the bronze tint and it works very well. Now I just have to convince my wife that it's a good investment for the GMC.
Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 10:47:31
From: "Ralph D. Edelbach" <edelbach#tcnj.edu>
Subject: Re: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens
I'm getting ready to order two items from Camping World to keep the sun out of my coach. They are:
#1 Reflectix Insulation available in 2' X 20' and 4' X 20' rolls. Their customer service person told me it is a sandwich of metalized polyester surfaces with a layer of 5/8" bubble pack in between. I plan to put it in between my slat type shades and the windows, attached with velcro. Their phone is 800/TRYFOIL and web page http://www.reflectixinc.com. Other vendors may carry it as well although I'm going to buy from Camping World. The 4' X 20' roll is part number # 12233 and lists for about $20.00.
#2 Compact RV Twist Shade White Dupont Tyvek sping loop shade stands up to the sun to help keep your RV cooler. Collapses to 1/10 of its fully extended size of 42" high X 96" wide. Two