XX CLUB TASTING NOTES
106thSESSIONJAN 8th 2014
(1) JEWEL “OLD VINE” LODI ZINFANDE 2011 CALIFORNIA.
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The Jewel winery is the oldest in Lodi, which is both a city and an AVA in the San Joaquin County of California’s Central Valley, some 40 miles south of Sacramento. It is cooler than both the northern and southern halves of the valley with a deep, rich-soiled valley floor which was built up by alluvial deposits from rivers running out of Sierra Nevada then ‘pooling’ before running out to the Pacific. This has proved extremely compatible with Zinfandelwith some 12,000 acres planted. Historically, Ruby Cabernet was also popular here but this has been gradually usurped by Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon although Zinfandel is still very much the dominant variety here, where it tends to exhibit fleshy, plummy and ripe berry fruit characteristics.
The winery is owned by a co-operative of growers that bought it about 7 years ago with a view to pooling their collective knowledge, experience and not forgetting vineyards, which in the case of their ‘old vine’ Zinfandel are between 30 & 40 years old. Most of the 20 or so vineyard owners involved are 3rd or 4th generation viticulturalists.. The aim is to control the whole production process from start to finish.
The wine itself is rich with raspberry cordial & bramble aromas with an underlying spiciness. The palate is typically voluptuous with chalky-textured tannins that balance out the fruit without being overbearing. Although the early-ripening, potentially very alcoholic Zinfandel is regarded as California’s main variety, it is increasingly planted in Australia too with regions such as MargaretRiver in Western Australia and Orangein NSW producing some good examples. It is thought to be related to Primativo and one expert is Gregorio Perucci(a Primitivo obsessive) of the Accademia dei Racemiin
Manduria, Puglia. He is an honorary member of the ZAP club (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers)
Alcohol 14.5%
£9-95 Scatchards
(2)WILSON VINEYARD “THE CRUSHER” VIOGNIER 2010 CLARKSBURG.
Although not as establishedas the likes of NapaValleyor Sonoma, Clarksburg, which is roughly half way between Napa and Sacramento has been garnering a decent reputation for quality wines at a sensible price. Being some way from the coast, the climate here is on the warm side. This is because the region benefits from cooling afternoon breezes coming in from the San FranciscoBay which reduces the temperatures in the vineyards down to 30 - 40°F from its daytime high. This allows the grapes grown here to retain acidity better than in similarly warm regions further inland.
Viognier is an increasingly popular variety that originates from and is at its best in France’s northern Rhône valley in wines such as Condrieu. Given its increasing popularity it seems remarkable that as recently as 1985 there were only 80 acres planted world-wide! Typical tasting notes include apricots, peaches, honeysuckle and musk. Sommelier believes that the combination of perfumed aromas and richness of texture account for the increasing popularity of this variety.
The Crusher label is owned by Don Sebastiani and Sons, one of the largest NapaValley based operators. As opposed to actually owning vineyards here, Sebastiani work with established, family growers on a long term contract basis; in this instance with the Wilson family who have been growing grapes in Clarksburgsince 1922.
This arrangement suits both parties with the Wilson’s happy to concentrate on growing their grapes whilst leaving the marketing to Sebastiani..
The resulting wine is lovely; fresh & bright, it offers a beguiling nose with hints of apple, pear, apricot & honeysuckle whilst the palate is zesty with a lean, mineral backbone. Some Californian Viognier can be decidedly syrupy–not the case here where winemaker Michelle McClendon has excelled.
Apparently, this wine includes 2% of Pinot Grigio although quite what such a small proportion of such a relatively innocuous variety can bring to the party Sommelier is unsure. ABV is a hefty 14.8%, but Viognier can carry alcohol well and this certainly doesn’t come across on the palate pH is 3.52 & tartaric acid comes in at .46g / 100ml.
Alcohol 14.5%
pH 3.52
Tartaric Acid 0.46 gm/100 ml £12-25 Scatchards
(3) CLOS MONT-BLANC VEREMA TARDANA 2010 SPAIN.
Alcohol 16.5% £9-99 (half bottle) Scatchards.
(4) TAYLORS VARGELLAS 2001 VINTAGEPORT.
From the wilder higher country of the Douro come this classic Port.
The grapes are foot trodden and the wine, made from the standard Port grapes referred to numerous times in previous tasting notes.
After Warres this is one of Sommelier’s personal favourites.
Alcohol 20.5% £35-99 Noble Green Wines.
HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM
SOMMELIER