We Are in Zanzibar, Which Is Exotic. It Is More Arabian Nights Than African Because The

Zanzibar

August 23, 2002

We are in Zanzibar, which is exotic. It is more Arabian nights than African because the Arab traders claimed these islands about 1200 A.D. and the only islanders here then were from the Maldives, not Africa. The sailing dhows are still operating in three sizes: small one or two men who fish with lines or nets; medium ones (50 feet) that have 8 or 10 men fishing with big nets; very large ones (100 feet) carrying heavy loads of rice from Dar es Salaam then taking coconuts or cloves back to mainland. Dhows make such a beautiful silhouette on the horizon, especially at sunset or sunrise (or last night’s full moon rising).

The people are interesting. The Arabs are Muslim and reserved but pleasant. The women are wearing the bui bui (the equivalent of the chador or burqa) but it does not cover the face and is often very colorful. They act modest but the teenage girls giggle around the boys like many teenagers everywhere. The men wear Western T-shirts and shorts and flip-flops in the villages or the businessmen in town wear white shirts and long pants to the Banks etc. Many men wear the embroidered cap (kopi). There are also black Africans from many different tribes who are not reserved and very friendly. The Maasai are cool looking being very tall and thin and carrying their walking stick and wearing a traditional wrap. We have learned the Swahili words for greetings (Jambo) and thank you (Ahsante) and a few more.

Stone town in Zanzibar is a great site. Look for photos on the web. It is hot and basking in the sunlight by the blue Indian Ocean with all of its white building reflecting brightly. A lot of the buildings are 3 stories high and made of coral or limestone with a rooftop terrace covered with red tiles and open to the breeze. We have discovered our favorite lunch spots up there in the shade staring out at the rooftops and ocean and eating spicy Arabian foods. Our favorite dishes are squid or calamari in a spicy tomato sauce with cumin, cardamom, chilies and onions served with basmati rice.

It is a great opportunity for us to visit these places. But I must admit it is probably not worth the airfare for an American to fly in for a week. These are still places that are both westernized more than we expect (Banks, cars, etc.), hot dusty streets with touts selling souvenirs but also sometimes squat toilets or other inconveniences. Most of the western tourists here have gone on a safari in Tanzania or Kenya then stop here for a beach holiday and shopping. We are anchored off of a nice resort with just thatched cottages, a small swimming pool, bar and restaurant and a nice beach for leaving our dinghy.