The Weardale Way (2016)
The Weardale Way stretching 78 miles from Killhope Wheel Lead Mining museum, near the source of the Wear, to Sunderland and a fitting climax at the estuary on Roker Pier.
The way has over recent years suffered from some neglect due to financial constraints regarding upkeep and several 'temporary' diversions are in place. The 78 mile route, therefore, is somewhat loose in terms of overall mileage!
Being a lesser known route, it may come as a surprise to those whose notion of County Durham is defined by industrial decay in a post coal mining county, that for the majority of the route it follows the delightful River Wear. In it's upper reaches it is located within the Northern Pennines AONB and in the lower reaches navigates the World Heritage area of Durham Castle and Cathedral.
Using the natural flow of water in a downward direction the route below is described as source to mouth.
Section 1 Killhope to Westgate (8.3 miles)
Though technically not on the River Wear (Which officially begins at Wearhead), the walk follows the Killhope Burn - a tributary of the Wear. Killhope Lead Mining Museum, opened in 1984, had begun the restoration process in 1981 on the site of the Park Level Mine. It's great crowing glory is the large Killhope Wheel used to generate power for the washing process of separating the lead ore from the spoil.
As a starting point it is a rather fine one, hemmed into the head of the dale by a fine surround of hills on the Durham, Cumbria and Northumberland border. Strangely the walk begins by heading away from the intended conclusion walking West up the Killhope Burn before ascending a forest track to skirt the forest edge on Cowhorse Hill. This location is the highest point on the way with a superb view looking down Weardale.
All around is the sound of upland birds: lapwings, oystercatchers, curlew - their mournful cries filling the skies as greyness descends and oppresses the landscape. Weardale is always a place of darkness...perhaps the orientation of the sun in the valley is at such an angle to create this sense, or maybe the dark foreboding landscape of a previous era wrested by lead miners of years gone by, fills the soul.
Once the descent is made to Killhope Bridge route finding is difficult. Signposting is confused as old signs remain, re-routes have been torn down and gates on rights of way are wired and blocked. The County Council (Cuts to budgets allowing) need to look at this situation if they are to attract walkers to a route that needs much promotion.
Beyond Low Allers, Copthill quarry is revealed on the opposite bank of the river. This dolerite (Whinstone) quarry (One of two in Weardale, The second being at Stanhope) was abandoned in 1943 'ate' towards the headwall where a church was located.. Copthill Church was built in 1823 as a Chapel of Ease and became a separate parish in 1866. The Whinstone quarry opened near the Church in the late 19th Century, and after several years caused the ground to erode.It was decided to move the Church stone by stone, and it was taken down in 1914 and all parts were reused in the building of the present Church. The foundation stone was laid on July 31st 1911 by Lord Barnard. The old Churchyard can still be visited, and the outline of the Church is still visible close to the walk downstream at Cowshill. The walk now becomes less wild as the banks of the, now, River Wear are 'hugged' to Wearhead.
This was once the terminus of the Weardale railway where passenger services ceased in 1953 leading to a decline of the railway to the present day where intermittent nods occur to reopening passenger services between Bishop Auckland and Stanhope/ Eastgate.
The way now leads through wooded river banks meeting a series of minor road and foot bridges before leaving the way at the lovely village of St. John's Chapel. It could be said that the two greatest areas of note here are Mining and Methodism!
John Wesley,founder of the Methodist Church,first visited in 1752 and he returned a further 12 times to see his‘beloved society’in Ireshopeburn,often staying with the Watson family at Ling Riggs. The beautiful High House Chapel in Ireshopeburn is now the oldest purpose built Methodist Chapel to have held continuous weekly services since its foundation in 1760. Additional to Sunday Morning services,the chapel is open for visits during museum hours.