THE BASIC STEP-BY-STEP FACIAL
PROCEDURE 14–4
Now that you have practiced the preliminary steps and cleansing, it is time to put it all together in a complete facial. The steps for performing a basic facialtreatment are listed here. Some procedures may vary, however, so be guided byyour instructor.
EQUIPMENT
• facial equipment (towelwarmer, steamer, mag light)
SUPPLIES
• disinfectant/sanitizer
• hand sanitizer/antibacterialsoap
• covered trash container
• bowls
• spatulas
• fan and mask brush
• implements
• distilled water
• sharps container
• hand towels
• clean linens
• blanket
• headband
• client gown or wrap
• bolster
• client charts
DISPOSABLES
• cotton pads
• cotton rounds
• cotton swabs
• paper towels
• tissue
• gloves/finger cots
• baggies
PRODUCTS
• cleanser
• exfoliant
• masks
• massage lotion
• toner
• moisturizer
• sunscreen
• optional: serums, eye cream, lip balm, extraction supplies
Preparation
1. Set up the room.
2. Prepare the bed, equipment, andworkstation (Figure P14–4-1).
3. Help the client prepare for theservice (Figure P14–4-2).
4. Put on headband (FigureP14–4-3).
Procedure
5. Cleanse your hands and
apply warm towels.After
checking the temperature, apply one towel to the décolleté and one to the face
(Figure P14–4-4).
Optional: Remove eye makeupand lipstick. If your client hasno makeup, skip this part andproceed to step 2. Rememberto ask about contact lensesbefore putting product on theeyes. If the client is wearingcontacts, do not remove theeye makeup.
6. Cleanse.
a. Remove about one-half teaspoon of cleanser from thecontainer (with a sanitizedspatula if it is not a squirttopor pump-type lid). Place itin the palm and then apply asmall amount to your fingertips(Figure P14–4-5). This conservesthe amount of product you use.
b. Starting at the neck or décolleté and with a sweepingmovement, use both hands tospread the cleanser upwardand outward on the chin, jaws,cheeks, and temples (FigureP14–4-6). Spread the cleanserdown the nose and along itssides and bridge.
c. Make small, circular movementswith the fingertips around thenostrils and sides of the nose(Figure P14–4-7). Continuewith upward-sweeping movementsbetween the brows andacross the forehead to thetemples.
d. Apply more cleanser to theneck and chest with long,even strokes (Figure P14–4-8). Cleanse the area in small, circularmotions from the centerof the chest and neck towardthe outside, moving upward. Try to use both hands atthe same time on each sidewhen applying or removingproduct.
e. Visually divide the face intoleft and right halves fromthe center. Continue movingupward with circular motionson the face from the chinand cheeks, and up towardthe forehead using bothhands, one on each side(Figure P14–4-9).
f. Starting at the center of the forehead,continue with the circularpattern out to the temples (FigureP14–4-10). Move the fingertipslightly in a circle around the eyesto the temples and then back tothe center of the forehead. Liftyour hands slowly off of the facewhen you finish cleansing.
Note: Remember that procedures vary. In cleansing, the instructor may have you use mainly longstrokes, rather than circles.
7. Remove the cleanser. Usingmoist cotton pads or disposablefacial sponges, start at the neckor forehead and follow the contoursof the face. Move up ordown the face in a consistentpattern, depending on whereyou start according to theinstructor’s procedures (FigureP14–4-11). Remove all thecleanser from one area of theface before proceeding to thenext. (Under the nostrils, usedownward strokes when applyingor removing products to avoidpushing product up the nose. This is uncomfortable and willmake the client tense.) Blot yourhands on a clean towel, andtouch the face with dry fingertipsto make sure there is noresidue left.
8. Analyze the skin. Cover theclient’s eyes with eye pads(Figure P14–4-12). Position themagnifying light where youwant it before starting thefacial, so that you can swing itover easily to line up over theface (Figure P14–4-13). Notethe skin type and condition,and feel the texture of the skin.
Optional: Cleanse the faceagain. Some treatment protocolsdo not include this secondcleansing. Be guided by yourinstructor.
Optional:If exfoliation is part of the service, it could be doneat this time before steaming. If eyebrow arching is needed,it could be done either at thistime or following the steam andextractions to avoid irritationfrom the steam. Be careful whatyou apply to waxed areas.
9. Steam the face (Figure P14–4-14).
a. Preheat the steamer before youneed it. Turn it on, wait for it tostart steaming, and then turn onthe ozone button if applicable.
b. Check to make sure the steamer is not too close to the client(approximately 18 inches away)and that it is steaming the faceevenly. If you hold your handsclose to the sides of the client’sface, you can feel if the steam isreaching both sides of the face(Figure P14–4-15). Steam forapproximately 5 to 10 minutes.
c. Turn off the steamer immediately after use. (Review the sectionon steamers in Chapter 16for steamer cautions.) If using towels, remember to test them for the correct temperature.Ask the client if sheis comfortable with the temperature.Towels are left on forapproximately 2 minutes. Steamor warm towels should be usedcarefully on couperose skin.
Note:Extractions are doneimmediately after the steam,while the skin is still warm(Figure P14–4-16). Refer tothe extractions section of this chapter to incorporate thisstep into your basic facialprocedure if it is applicable toyour facility.
10. Massage the face. Use thefacial manipulations describedin Chapter 15.
a. Select a water-soluble massagecream or product appropriate tothe client’s skin type.
b. Use the same procedure as you didfor product application to applythe massage cream to the face,neck, shoulders, and chest. Applythe warmed product in long, slowstrokes with a brush, moving in aset pattern (Figure P14–4-17).
c. Perform the massage as directed(Figure P14–4-18).
d. Remove the massage cream. Usewarm towels or cleansing padsand follow the same procedureas for removing other productsor cleanser (Figure P14–4-19).
11. Apply a treatment mask.
a. Choose a mask formulatedfor the client’s skincondition. Remove the maskfrom its container, and placeit in the palm or a small mixingcup. (Use a clean spatula, ifnecessary, to avoid contamination.)Warming the mask isrecommended.
b. Apply the mask with fingers or a brush, usually starting at the neck.Use long, slow strokes from thecenter of the face, moving outwardto the sides (Figure P14–4-20).
c. Proceed to the jawline and applythe mask on the face from thecenter outward (Figure P14–4-21). Avoid the eye area unless themask is appropriate for that area.
d. Allow the mask to remainon the face for approximately 7 to 10 minutes (FigureP14–4-22).
e. Remove the mask with wetcotton pads, sponges, or towels(Figure P14–4-23).
12. Apply the toner product appropriatefor the skin type (FigureP14–4-24).
Note:Serums as well as eye and lip creams are optional for applicationbefore the final moisturizer.
13. Apply a moisturizer and an additionalsunscreen if applicable(Figure P14–4-25).
14. End the facial by washing yourhands and quietly letting theclient know you are finished. Give the client instructionsfor getting dressed. Have hercome out to the receptionarea when ready to discussthe home-care products andregime (Figure P14–4-26).
Clean-Up and Sanitation
15. Discard all disposable supplies and materials.
16. Close product containers tightly, clean them, and put them away intheir proper places. Return unused cosmetics and other clean items tothe dispensary.
17. Place used towels, coverlets, head covers, and other linens in a closed,covered laundry hamper.
18. Disinfect your workstation, including the facial table.
19. Wash your hands with soap and warm water.