1st September 2014
South AFrica
‘Wine is sunlight held together by Water’
As I write, the sun is shining in the UK and it has actually been pretty cold in South Africa (minus 2- minus 3 degrees in the Cederberg Mountains, one grower reporting having to throw warm water over his car door to open it). Honestly, I always find it hard to imagine. In my mind’s eye Cape Town and surrounds, up to Clan William and beyond is a land bathed in eternal sunshine. Though logically I know that winter prevails every year, I am perfectly happy to ignore the fact. Like the seasonal and climatic fluctuations in South Africa, I know that, in terms of its chemical constituents, there is more to wine than just sunlight and water, but as romantic as this notion may sound, it is not too far from a truth that I would like to believe.
In South Africa, pre 2014 harvest, evidence of more water than average was everywhere. It rained during our trip on more than one occasion, but most notably the dams were full from Stellenbosch to the Swartland and the dirt tracks more bumpy and rutted than normal, with crevices and furrows formed by rivulets and streams of water. In the vineyards, growers had to spray more than usual, unaccustomed to dealing with the sudden onset of mildew, caused by the more humid atmosphere and saturated soils in spring and early summer. The plus side to the wetter than average conditions, has been a replenishing of the water table, as well as the dams, something the drier regions in the Cape are very thankful for. One grower ruefully noted that all would be well: simply being prepared and flexible with viticultural practices would dispel the severity of any potential problems. Another phlegmatically noted that many growers in Europe have to juggle the onslaught of far more challenging conditions every year.
The timing and presence of, or indeed lack of, water has impacted on other recent vintages in the Cape. For example, 2012 and 2013 had periods of rainfall influencing their character. The winter preceding 2012 was marked by heavy rain that replenished water supplies and buffered the vines during the summer months, a significant benefit for those who dry farm. 2012 saw a drier winter, but rain later in the growing season refreshed the vineyards and some have commented that they helped the grapes retain acidity. Indeed, as I re-read the notes I have made on trips to South Africa, there are recurrent references to this theme. As someone who resides in a country where an excess of precipitation is often apparent throughout all seasons, it is good to be reminded that it is not always a bad thing.
Katherine Dart MW
Tierhoek, Piekenierskloof
The amphitheatre of mountains that surrounds the vineyards at Tierhoek remains as breathtaking and beautiful as ever. The sunsets are incredible with colours so vivid they seem unreal and almost overexposed. Amongst this consistent beauty, some changes are afoot at this estate. Carla Niewoudt has joined the winemaking team and will be based permanently near the farm. Carla is young and dynamic and in the 5 years since graduating from ElsenburgArgicultural College has worked in the McLaren Vale and Sonoma, as well as in different estates in South Africa. That said, Roger remains as the consultant winemaker, Ryno is still overseeing all the organic viticulture and Shelley is still at the helm. The wines continue to exude a sense of place, with the older vine components bringing depth and complexity.
Tierhoek Sauvignon Blanc 2014
This will be bottled in Autumn 2014. It is incredibly mineral initially, with tightly bound acidity and zingy gooseberry fruit.
TierhoekChenin Blanc 2012
Taut, concentrated fruit core, grip on the attack, crisp acidity balanced the rich fruit. Really very good indeed.Great ageing potential.
Tierhoek Straw Wine 2007
I admit to having a soft spot for this wine: the combination of sweetly, honeyed fruit and candied peel, with bright acidity and velvet mouthfeel always wins me over.
Syrah Grenache Mourvedre 2011
Richly-scented notes of dark fruit and spice. Dense mid-palate. A further year in bottle has further tamed this wine and more control is evident in the fruit/tannin structure.
Axe Hill, Calitzdorp
The climate and geology of the vineyards at Axe Hill certainly give a nod to the Upper Douro; rainfall is usually no more than 250mm per annum and the yields are naturally low. The main vineyard is 1.3ha planted on a free draining site with some alluvial deposit. The afternoon breezes are crucial to cool the vines in this area. The original vineyard is planted to 60% TourigaNacional, 20% TintaBarocca and 20% Souza. Mike Neebe continues to be hands on, commuting between is his business concerns in Johannesburg and Calitzdorf, recently planting Viognier, TintaRoriz, Grenache and a little more TourigaNacional.
Axe Hill Machado 2011 limited availability
Made up of a third each of TourigaNacional, TintaBarroca and Shiraz aged in 4th and 5th fill French barrels this wine shows great potential. No wilting violet; the nose is reminiscent of soot and ripe dark berries leading to a rich and juicy palate with a bright, fresh finish. Only 650 bottles were made.
Axe Hill Cape Vintage 2007
Cassis and cherry with refined tannins and fresh acidity. Alcohol has a sense of control and integration.
Axe Hill Dry White Port NV
100% Chenin Blanc with 60g/l RS, the fruit for this wine is bought from a colleague. Produced through a solera system that was started in 2003. Nuttiness and marmalade notes are evident throughout.
Lammershoek, Malmesbury
It is very much business as usual at Lammershoek. The farmyard menagerie of cows and pigs continues to grow; the Onse School, a joint venture between Anna Kretzel, Carla’s mother and Delana Sadie, Eben’s sister, is up and running in buildings at Lammershoek; Craig continues to refine his winemaking with Jurgen providing assistance. The desire to produce wines of exceptional quality that are affordable and approachable, while challenging convention just enough to have that extra spark, still prevails. The LAM wines coming on stream are on form and the more classically proportioned Lammershoek range have a presence that defies their price tag and the Cellar Foot wines, of course, still offer ‘something completely different’.
LAM CheninViognier 2013
55% old vine Chenin Blanc, 15% Chardonnay, 30% Viognier. Fermented in concrete, with no wood influence at all.Scented and expressive. The fruit is clean, fresh and juicy, with hints of marzipan and lemon.
LAM Syrah 2013
Half of the fruit was fermented on concrete tanks and the other was fermented in 5000 litre foudre. The attack is finely textured with a subtle grip and fresh acidity that together give the dark fruit its form. Long finish.
LAM Pinotage 2013
Part of the must was fermented in concrete along with old wood and a very small portion went into old 225 litre barrels. Delicately coloured and scented with violet and fresh cherry. Light, fresh and elegant.
LammershoekChenin Blanc 2013
Only the best fruit from the best sites on the farm go into this Chenin, though four vineyards on two slopes consistently make the blend and form the core of the wine. The aromas are classically Chenin in character, with wonderful depth and concentration. Peachy notes and white flowers layer with juicy acidity and minerality.
Lammershoek Syrah 2010
Violets, black fruit and coal create fine balance between the fruity and savoury components in the wine. White pepper notes add complexity. Vigorous attack leads to a contained, but concentrated mid-palate. Dark, fresh finish.
Cellar Foot Mourvedre 2013
Whole bunches were foot trodden to release some juice then left for fermentation to start spontaneously. Dense, muscular and toned in character. There is a lovely balance between minerality and spice. Needs time, but will be delicious.
Cellar Foot Underwater Wine 2013
A blend of Carignan, Grenache and Mourvedre in almost equal proportions.Fermented inconcrete then racked off into old 225 litre barrels and submerged under water in open top concrete tanks. The aromas are initially very pretty with florals and bright fruit, they then become more serious and intense. The attack is precise and fruit-led, with tight tannins and clear acidity. Needs time.
The Sadie Family, Malmesbury
Eben’s passion for the Swartland seems to grow with each passing year, as does his desire to keep learning. He is now experimenting with new grapes, planting both red and white Greek and Italian varieties amongst others. The 2012 Signature Series are very different from the 2011s and have an astonishing fruit that makes them wonderfully accessible now, though the innate structure and form are ever present and will reward those who have the self-control to ferret them away. The 2013 vintage sees the Old Vine Series becoming more refined and controlled, with the clear differences in terroir character standing to the fore, as the individual personalities of the sites become more familiar.
As volumes are very limited, the Old Vine Series (OVS) wines will be allocated in conjunction with a purchase of an equal amount of any of the Sadie Signature Series (as listed below) and subject to availability – minimum order per wine 3 bottles. If you wish to receive an allocation, please contact by Friday 17thOctober. Please note, we cannot guarantee to meet all requirements due to the limited nature of the stock and high demand.
Columella 2012
The 2012 has a wonderful perfumed nose that is reminiscent of spices, minerals and savoury fruit. The fruit balances generosity with focus and the tannins are ripe, but well-formed and the acidity provides the palate with direction.
Palladius 2012
This wine has really found its form in the last 4 vintages, with taut acidity and fresh fruit layered with chalky and stony notes. Glorious freshness on the finish.
OVS Pofadder 2013
100% Cinsault. Racked and bottled in mid-January. The characteristic floral notes are apparent on the nose. Delicate phenolics and nervy acidity bring focus without weighing down the fresh fruit character. The finish is scented.
OVS Soldaat 2013
100% Grenache.Incredibly fragrant, with cherry fruit, fine, fresh acidity and supple tannins. The core of the wine is concentrated and fleshy. Very long.
OVS Treinspoor 2013
100% TintaBarocca.Grown on alluvial gravel in the centre of the Swartland the wild character that was evident inthe earliest vintage still simmers beneath the surface of the wine refusing to be completely tamed. Graphite, spice and blackberry fruit layer with open textured tannins. Minerals linger on the finish.
OVS Skerpioen 2013
55% Palomino, 45% Chenin Blanc. The keynote characteristic of this wine continues to be its intensely saline minerality. The texture is chalky, with tangy fruit and acidity. Intense core and long finish.
Skurfberg 2013
100% Chenin Blanc. This high altitude plateau in Olifantsrivier near Clan William has once again produced some classic Chenin. There is glycerol richness to the scented core of this wine. Long and vibrant finish.
OVS T’Voetpad 2013
A blend of Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Blanc and Semillon Gris, Palomino and Muscat. Yield is down due to baboons taking a third of the crop. Flinty notes disperse and the aromatics emerge hinting at white peach and wax. The palate is juicy and tangy; the finish poised and long.
OVS Kokerboom 2012
Semillon Blanc and Semillon Gris.Aromas of dried herbs and spices. The attack has breadth, with a glossy fruit and marzipan notes. Rich and persistent finish.
OVS Mev. Kirsten 2013
Once again tasting this wine feels like stepping back into the past. It truly has an old soul. The fruit character has a nod towards oxidative notes, again a recurrent theme with this wine; there is freshness to the acidity and sense of contained richness on the core.
Sequillo 2011
The blend includes Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and TintaBarocca. The aromas and texture on the palate have a garrigue character, with dark fruit and herbs balanced with supple tannins and edgy acidity creating a lively and accessible wine.
Sequillo White 2012
Citrus notes of grapefruit and lime zest are woven with salty minerals and zesty acidity. Lovely focus and form across the palate.
Quoin Rock, Stellenbosch
On the way to Quoin Rock, I was starting to rue the decision to spend a good amount of time in the vineyards with viticulturalist, Nico Walters. It had rained all morning, really rained, so to find ourselves stood in a vineyard with the Drakenstein mountains as a backdrop and a view of False Bay in the distance with the sun shining, was a most pleasant surprise. In fact, it went a long way to making the soaking of the morning a distant memory. Nico joined the team at Quoin Rock in November 2012 and has been systematically working to get the vineyards in the very best condition possible. He is aware that his ideal and final goal will take time, but his meticulous approach can be seen already.
Quoin Rock Sauvignon Blanc 2012
The classic Sauvignon characteristics are more pronounced on the nose of the 2012 – grassiness and minerals bring obvious freshness, but the mouthfeel is smoother with more underlying richness. This should be a crowd pleaser.
Quoin Rock Nicobar Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Lime and blossom notes come through on the nose and palate and hints of well integrated toastiness are layered with the fruit on the nose and palate, bringing texture and complexity. Elegant finish hints at caramel.
Quoin Rock Chardonnay 2011
The aromas needed some encouragement at this tasting, but once opened up this wine started to come into its own. Seamlessly integrated and smoothly textured, the palate is really very fine for a wine of this price point. It carefully balances approachability and delicacy.
Quoin Rock Syrah 2010
There is 10% Mourvedre bringing some additional grip to the wine, along with 5% new wood. Sweetly-fruited, with spice, violet and toast.Texturally very silky with lovely freshness and fine tannins.
Waterford Estate, Stellenbosch
When we arrived at Waterford the usual groups and couples were dotted about tasting and buying wine from the cellar door. We noticed the some were enjoying the wine and chocolate tasting. Being consummate professionals, we focused on the job in hand. But by the end of the tasting, curiosity, and my unashamed love of all things chocolate, did get the better of me and we were able to try out the
combinations that Kevin Arnold has put together. I can honestly say that he has done this brilliantlyfrom the gift pack presentation to the choice of chocolate and wines. Below I have outlined my usual
notes reflecting our listings, but if anyone would like more information on the wine and chocolate, please feel free to ask.
Waterford Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Mineral restraint on the nose. Lovely texture across the palate is supported by tangy acidity and fresh fruit. Hint of grip on the finish givesadded definition.
Waterford Estate Chardonnay 2012
Youthful aromas of citrus and toast are layered with pithy notes. The influence of oak is controlled bringing additional complexity and creaminess to the mid-palate.
Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2010
This vintage has a touch of Mourvedre in the blend. The nose nods towards herbal, thyme and fynbos notes. Spice and ripe fruit are woven together on the palate. Ripe tannins and clean acidity.
Waterford Estate TheJem 2007
Milk chocolate and spice. This wine is all about texture and form. The core is concentrated and full. Sophisticated and long.
Anthonij Rupert, Franschhoek
All the investment at Anthonij Rupert is focused on enhancing wine quality. Dawie Botha (the winemaker, working alongside Gary) aim to improve the quality of the wines, by working effectively and conscientiously in the vineyard and the wineries. The potential at this operation continues to astound me and each year refinements in the style of the wines is evident.
L’Ormarins Brut NV
40% Pinot Noir and 60% Chardonnay, grown on slopes 870 metres above sea level and aged on the lees for 4 years. It was degorged in June 2012. The mousse is fine and integrated, as is the fruit. Very long and refined.
Cape of Good Hope Van LillVisserChenin Blanc 2013
From the Skurfberg mountains.Restrained aromas, hints of bees wax and lemon. Lovely texture and rich mouthfeel balanced by fresh acidity and leesy complexity.