Some Observations for the Newcomers

Some Observations for the Newcomers

by Jimmie MacBain, Bathgate

With so much information readily available from the publications of “Masters” past and present, it would be superfluous, and indeed, presumptuous to try to add anything not already covered. So comprehensive is the minutiae of every phase of the growing of sweet peas, that I may best serve the interests of the neophytes by exhorting them to assiduously peruse the treatise by Bernard R. Jones and the booklet by Charles W. J. Unwin, titled “Your Questions Answered”, and follow their teaching. In addition, I can only proffer my views on some of the misconceptions and pitfalls that exist, and emphasise a few of the essentials contributory to the production of quality blooms. The ‘old hands’ (the initiated as it were) know the drill only too well, so I address myself to the new converts in the limited space available.

In most pursuits, all the attention to detail will, in the end, achieve little unless our fundamentals are right. So it is with growing sweet peas. And, as I learned from my beloved mentor, the legendary Frank Dunbar (even Bernard pays homage to him as the “greatest grower of all time”) the basic principle is embodied in the treatment of the soil, which starts the ball rolling towards the goal we desire. Forget about digging those much bruited trenches, quite unnecessary, and does more harm than good.

Don’t confine your digging to hard-walled strips, this will only create ditches, and adequate drainage is a sine qua non. Normally this will be best achieved by ‘double digging’ (i.e., two spits deep) the whole plot; keeping the soil layers, top-soil and sub-soil, in their natural positions. Complete at the backend and leave the surface quite rough for the benefit which will accrue from winter snow and frost. My only reason for breaking up the subsoil, is to ensure requisite drainage during the growing season, NOT for incorporating manure. Keep in mind that soil bacteria work and multiply best in the fertile top-soil where aeration is better.

Manures and Fertilisers

If the soil is good virgin loam, little, if any, feeding is usually required the first year. If not, then incorporate about 25 lbs. per sq. yard of old farmyard manure, or green manure, i.e. vegetable matter, or preferably a really rich compost, into the bottom four or five inches of the top-soil, and never deeper than the first three inches of the sub-soil. Though, if available, (I did it for years) 25 lbs. of good virgin soil or riddled turf is best of all. Burying it in the sub-soil is a mistake. If using farmyard manure be sure it is at least 3 to 4 years old, and to accelerate assimilation in the soil, it should preferably be riddled beforehand. Avoid fresh manure like the plague. The key note is thoroughness, it takes effort, but it pays off in the final result. Bone meal, roughly 4% nitrogen and 15% phosphate is a good supplement, a safe organic fertiliser with lasting effect, which, even if overdone will-not upset soil balance. About 4 to 6 ozs. per sq. yd. worked through the top-soil is adequate, plus 5 or 6 ozs. of wood ash, if you can get it, equivalent to one oz. of K20 per sq yd.

Don't forget a dressing of lime, and apply in January. It is highly advisable to keep on the safe side with manuring; over manuring with either farmyard or inorganic fertilisers is the root cause of many failures.

Spring Dressing

To the surface soil should be applied about 3 to 4 weeks before planting out 4 ozs per sq. yd. of Chempak’s B.T.D.; or, if preferred. 1 oz. of dried blood, 2 ozs. of superphosphate and 1 oz. of K2. i.e. sulphate of Potash. Fork over once or twice and allow soil to settle well, before firming by light cross tramping (using board), avoid leaving the soil spongy; sweet peas like a firm root run.

These preparations will ensure sufficient enrichment of the soil and maintain the humus content (so important) and provide the essential nutrients for the plants. As the sweet pea is symbiotic in feeding habit with the bacteria, plants will seldom, if ever, suffer from insufficiency of nitrogen in such soil.

Seed Sowing

Follow the seedsman’s instructions; don’t soak beforehand, and only chip where advised to with the hard-skinned varieties. Most importantly, don’t bury the seed; sow no deeper than 1/2 inch in sterilised compost, made up of 3parts loam, 2 parts fertilised peat and 1 part of either coarse sand (1/8th grist) or Perlite to ensure adequate drainage and aeration in pot etc., for healthy plaints. Either pots or boxes can be used, it is a matter of preference; I prefer pots. Propagate in 55/60 degrees of heat, around the end of January. This is best for Scotland, but for Mid and South of England autumn sowing is considered essential.

The vital factor here is; immediately the wee hairpin-like shoot appears thro' the soil, remove to the cold frame (provided frost is not obtaining). Never let the shoots become drawn by keeping them in a heated atmosphere. Keep the frames closed for a day or two, then prop up the sashes by an inch or so top and bottom. After a week remove the sashes altogether if weather is open. Only close at night if frost or heavy rain is in the offing. Even if pot soil is frozen, no harm will result provided the covering felt is kept on to exclude light until the soil is completely thawed out. Don’t coddle, this is fatal to the rearing of sturdy, hardy plants that will withstand frost, wind and strong sun when planted out. The sweet pea is a most hardy annual and must always be treated as such. Now a warning against rearing in a cold green-house; this can jeopardise and defeat the object of rearing first class plants because the glass draws solar heat during the day, even with the windows and door open. The cold frame is the ideal habitat for rearing sweet pea plants. One of the hallmarks of a first class plant is coppery-bronze tinge on the leaves at the edge. If this is lacking throughout the whole batch, mistaken kindness is the culprit. Rigorous treatment is the answer, plenty of fresh air. By the way, pinch out the growing tip immediately the original growth shoot has got four leaves, as this induces the plant to throw that vital basal shoot much quicker. This is essential in spring sown plants.

Planting Out

In the South of England the 1st March onwards and in the North and Scotland from the third week in April subject to weather prevailing. Discard all indifferent plants, select only the best. Plant firmly about 61/2 inches apart, yes . . . this is sufficient, in fact the great E. R. Janes taught me this, and it is conducive to mutual protection where strong winds prevail, and, of course, economy of space. Without dispute it works.

Restriction to Cordon Method

No pruning of growths until the plants are about a foot high, then select the sturdiest growth, not necessary the longest, in fact it seldom is, the wee thick one, he is the fellow.

Top Feeding

If the ground has been properly prepared, this should not be necessary. Where, however, it is obvious that some supplement is required, let it be little and often, rather than large and infrequent, until the well-being of the plants is built up. I deplore top feeding once generative, i.e. productive growth has started, as it invariably leads to coarse and ‘gappy’ blooms, in a word, imbalance in the plants is reflected in lack of colour tone, placement and size, - yes! rankness is finally accompanied by reduction in size. In the last fifty years I have never top fed to promote growth, only using top dressings of potash to control it. As the great Dunbar used to tell me; “put it in the soil Jimmie”. How right he was.

Balance

This is the crux of the whole matter. The sweet pea is the easiest plant to grow naturally, i.e. on the bush. BUT, conversely, when restricted by the constraints of the cordon system, it becomes the hardest of all to keep in balance, which the variability of our weather, especially in Scotland tends to aggravate. This is where having an “eye” is invaluable, the ability to recognise what element is lacking in adequate quantity to keep the ratio of the N. P. and K. in harmony for the plant’s needs. There are many pointers which only experience will enable one to recognise timeously, but the plant does provide them to the perceptive. The colour and texture of the haulm and leaves, the elongation between the nodes . . . i.e. joints, will all quickly indicate if a plant is out of balance, and calling for remedial action.

I will try and set out for your guidance in some detail what is of paramount importance in the production of those first class blooms.

I find that the most common fault in growers, is their failure to recognise soft or gross growth, or lack of robust healthy balanced growth early enough to allow for remedial action to be taken before a show. In many instances the first recognition of imbalance etc., is on the first developed blooms of gappy florets and coarse stems, creating disappointment, often resulting in precipitate or desperate action being taken to remedy the situaation, when it is too late without risk of damage or outright disaster.

Now the keen, watchful grower, sharp and perceptive, will notice adverse signs timeously (remember the plants do evince either well-being or need of some element that is lacking) and take action, e.g. if soft or gross growth is evident, one would allow side-shoots to develop, and/or top dress with a hard feed of Chempak No. 5, or a direct application of K20 don’t exceed 1/4 ounce to the running yard with the latter (excess of this may cause damage) to restore balance by putting the brake on the nitrogenous intake when prolonged wet weather has prevailed, with sap flowing too freely. Apply, if necessary, at intervals of 8 to 10 days especially during continuous wet spells.

The keynote in the production of first class, flowers, fruit, vegetables or even grass is optimum balance. In achieving and maintaining this in cultivation, we get the best possible results in relation to trueness of colour, depth and evenness of tone, quality in formation and placement of blooms, plus requisite size, and, of course taste in fruit and vegetables.

And the governing element is Potash, which is representative of . . . Balance. . Colour . . . and Quality. When lacking, problems arise: relative to Bud-drop e.g. plants succumb more quickly and take longer to recover from it. The Sun is a natural source in the restoration of balance by reducing the excessive flow of sap favouring the nitrogenous ions. I exhort everyone to read and study the various treatises on “POTASH” again and again, until one acquires expertise in its beneficial application when required. It is indeed, the “open sesame” as an aid to first class cultivation. Conversely injudicious use can be harmful. Getting to grips with it has been conducive to producing large balanced spikes each year and to such success I have achieved. Now I am confined to lecturing and judging. It is easier to cultivate smaller blooms of quality . . . but requisite size and quality relative to character was always my objective.

But, irrespective of the general look or feel of the haulm and leaves, the most reliable yardstick to “Balance” is the internode, i.e. the length between the nodes. I spent three years researching this aspect and in recording data to establish beyond doubt the correlation between the internode. the length of stem, and the placement of the florets of plants growing in balance. Excepting an odd variety or so, I proved my findings over and over again. The correlation is this: . . . Internode . . . 4 inches: Stem: heel to bottom floret: 131/2 to 15 inches: Placement of florets left, right, left, right, or vice versa . . .the florets (four) barely touching and of requisite size. This if the internodes are easing out to five inches, imbalance is indicated and remedial action called for. But, don’t be disheartened if perfect balance is not achieved. It is all a question of degree. Good blooms of show quality, though perhaps short of perfection can be obtained from reasonably balanced plants, but never from soft, gross or poor unbalanced plants. The aim is to have your plants in balance about 16 days before your first show. So watch the internodes and well being of the plants or lack of it in general. This period should be sufficient for remedial action to be taken, if necessary, to correct imbalance. Here experience sharpens judgment and leads to expertise, which is so essential in this regard. On occasions I have brought plants into balance in eight days; and with sixteen days it should be no problem.

Showing

To ensure evenness in depth of tone and colour, all blooms should be of the same age; to achieve this, cut off all flowers full out etc., five days before the Show day, leaving only the spikes with the two lower florets showing colour.

On the morning before the show day, start cutting off, classify as you cut, labelling your bunches No. 1 or 2 according to merit; straighten any bent stems before immersing in water, this is the time to do so, and much easier than later. Place the flowers in a cool room or shed. When possible select, blooms with the top floret nearly or fully open to ensure maximum size and depth of tone throughout . . . a very important feature.

If any appreciable distance is involved, I prefer to travel blooms dry after at least five or six hours in water. Flower boxes 30” x 18” are ideal. Place the flowers face up on grease proof paper; don’t crush, just fit snugly to conserve space and restrict movement. They may flag during the journey but don’t worry, two hours, often less will restore them to full vigour, size and colour.

While the blooms are coming up, get your vases filled for setting up. Oasis or reeds can be used, or boxwood, it’s a matter of preference. The setting I prefer is 7 - 5 - 3. Lay out the blooms on grease proof paper . . . separate “lefts” and “rights” separately as top floret indicates, then select those suitable for each row. Don’t get too close, ease them out so that each bloom can be seen independently in a fanwise style. The tight setting of blooms is to be deprecated, as it nullifies the intrinsic delicacy of the fairy lightness, which makes the flower so attractive, irrespective of its lovely scent. One has only to see a vase set up by a great friend of mine, Keith Brewer of the I.O.W to appreciate the enhancement which such a setting makes towards the majesty and loveliness of 15 spikes.

In setting up, always start with the centre‘ spike and build left and right of it alternately. Working on a base line about 3/8ths. of an inch from the rear rim.

Follow on with the middle and front rows.

The positions taking precedence for the best blooms are, of course: . . .

Back Row: No. 1 and No. 7

Middle Row: No. 8 and No. 12

Front Row: Nos. 13 . . . 14 . . . 15.

These positions are the ones which will show the blooms to best advantage, and conversely reveal any imperfections to the worst effect in presenting the blooms. So, put any inferior ones elsewhere.

Note from Webmaster.

Most people would accept using the two best stems for the ends of the back row, but would also use better blooms for the front row. See the more recent article on Staging.

Another controversial feature is the use of leaves.

I was possibly one of the first to discard them. They do not enhance, they only detract, especially the upturned leaf at the back of the vase, as it takes away from the majestic upsweep of the slender stems. In front the severity of the vase edge is obscured, if the name card is secured by florist’s wire and placed so that the top 1/2 inch is projected above the rim, thus creating a neat effect and giving a clear view of the name of the variety. When judging it appals me to find, so often, the name card stuck between the stems, and thus semi-obscured.

Note from Webmaster.

It is now regarded as general practice to use leaves. The name card can be used as above. on a wire or clip inserted in the staging material, or in a slit cut in the stem of the downward pointing front leaf

.

My researches over the years has convinced me that plants may be deleafed to 8 or 10 large working leaves with beneficial effect, and especially so before each layering. It facilitates this phase of work and eliminates the heavy build up of foliage, which forms a natural harbour for die-back, pests and disease. It works, be assured of it.

Finally, the best advice I can proffer to aspiring newcomers, is this, in cultivating keep your eye on the plants daily, they will always manifest what they lack or require, and in this respect a little gumption..... (a Scottish word...... but man the depth of it) in tackling any problem goes a long way. Above all, I would re-emphasize the need to avoid the excessive use of manure and artificial fertilisers. I have been very fortunate with having our beloved Maestro, and my dear friend Bernard as my second mentor. Though a crack fly fisher and entomologist relative to trout flies all my days, my first love next to Jessie has been our beloved flower, the sweet pea. Good growing.