Smoked Salmon Pasta with Fresh Tomatoes, Basil and Goat Cheese

Smoked Salmon Pasta with Fresh Tomatoes, Basil and Goat Cheese

By Charlie Burke

Fresh tomatoes in northern New England were rarely found until the end of July, but much has changed in the past several years. Many farmers extend the season by starting their tomatoes in greenhouses, rolling up the sides as the weather warms, producing fine tasting local tomatoes much earlier in the season.

A farm in Maine now is using heated greenhouses through the winter and selling local tomatoes in late winter and spring to Hannaford’s Markets and other outlets. Using varieties developed for early growing, which are bred for flavor rather than shelf life, local growers produce early tomatoes which rival field varieties. One recent tasting was won by a greenhouse grown tomato over others which were field grown, so these early local varieties are vastly superior to those we recall from the past as “hot house” tomatoes. Expect to see these tomatoes at farm stands and Farmers Markets now, so you can begin enjoying local fresh tomatoes before the Fourth of July.

Having the first of this year’s local tomatoes and with some Maine smoked salmon in the refrigerator, I thought a pasta combining them and our basil with some fresh goat cheese would make a light dinner. I like the combination of smoked bacon and salmon, and most of the salmon that I have had from Maine is smoked with a light touch so the added smoked bacon is not a problem. We were between crops of arugula, but it can be used instead of basil in this preparation because it combines perfectly with soft goat cheese -- one of my favorite fresh pizza toppings.

I had to write down the ingredients after dinner because this recipe was pulled together from what was available, and I probably won’t make it exactly the same way again. So, use this recipe as a guide and feel free to substitute garlic or shallots for the leeks, and greens, such as spinach or Swiss chard would work as well as the basil but would be cooked with the sauce, rather than being added fresh at the end.

Peas are now in season, and replacing the greens with a cup of barely cooked fresh peas would be perfect with the salmon, a traditional Fourth of July combination.I would not use stronger cheese, such as Parmesan, because it would obscure the mild salmon flavor. This pasta in smaller portions makes an easy and seasonal first course for guests.

Ingredients:

4 ounces New England smoked salmon*

1 ½ tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 slice local smokehouse bacon, chopped into ¼ - ½ inch pieces

½ cup sliced leek

1 medium tomato, diced into 1/3 inch cubes

½ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc

1 ½ tablespoon capers, rinsed

1 tablespoon butter or butter substitute (we use Earth Balance as a butter replacement)

Zest of 1 lemon

2 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper or to taste

1 cup torn or chopped fresh basil leaves

½ cup (approximately 3 - 4 ounces) local soft goat cheese in ½ inch pieces

Sea salt or kosher salt to taste

4 ounces thin spaghetti or linguini

Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat, add bacon and cook until lightly brown. Add leeks and cook until soft. Add wine, turn to high and boil until most of the wine has evaporated. Add tomatoes and butter and lower heat. Add salmon, lemon zest, crushed pepper and capers and turn off heart when warmed.

Cook pasta in 2 quarts rapidly boiling salted water until al dente (usually less time than instructions on the box). Drain the pasta and add to sauté pan. Turn heat to high and mix sauce with pasta; remove pan from heat. Add cheese and basil off heat, toss and serve immediately. Vinaigrette with fresh greens and a dry white wine nicely finish this meal.

*DuckTrapRiver Farm and other sources in Maine offer sliced smoked salmon in convenient vacuum packs which keep well in the refrigerator.