Ship’s Log for Passagemaker

The Amazon - July2012

Date / Time / Coordinates / Comments
Sun.1st / 6.00am / Anchor up no problem by motoring forward, under way. New month i.e. sadly missed main body of Parintins festival … next time! Reminded because of seeing 2 powerboats in row returning (saw them head downstream 2 days ago). /
9:23 / 2.36.77S 56.48.89W / Final approach to Parintins, in two minds as to whether to stop to go have a look or to press on. Hmm, you live only once  Will depend on whether I find a “safe” anchorage where I’m happy to leave boat alone for a few hours and sleep over, if necessary. Large red and blue pillars next to Bumbodromo even visible from this distance. Also giant blue and red flags, hoisted at separate ends of town. /
10:21 / 2.38.75S 56.47.78W / Anchor in 7.6m water (80ft chain) about 1 mile up the Foro do Limao – out of sight of main river. Will lunch early and see what anchor does, then go into Parintins by dinghy. Will overnight and take half day off  Daily run 30 miles in 4.5 hours. /
10:51 / Freezer freezing. Dinghy pumped, both fuel tanks full. Checked lock for doors, will close boat when leaving, drop keys through hatch. Forward hatches all locked. /
later / Parintins ROCKS! Wow! I’m awestruck! Sleepy hollow has turned into frenetic festival centre! Muuuuuch better that “carnaval” in Alter. Crowded streets and banners flying, people dancing to Amazonian folklore rhythms, beer flowing, PAAAAAAAAAAAARTY! Hated coming back to boat, as entrance to Bumbadrome is free and police ensure me single women are safe, but worried about security of PM more than anything else. Oh well, can watch fireworks from here and watching DVD of nights 1 and 2  HAVE to come back here with the capitan!!!!! /
Mon.2nd / 6:30 / Up anchor and under way. Later start due to Monday checks. Topped up water in genny. Face beautiful scarlet colour from all that walking in the sun yesterday  /
7:06 / 2.37.01S 56.48.74W / Just my rotten luck… Passing Parintins, Marinha do Brasil guys came alongside again. No boarding, thankfully. Just requested nationality. Seemed confused to see a solitary female on board, skippering. But I wasn’t offering unasked for information either, so there. “Yeah buddy, we’re bred tough in Africa…” Think I’m going to go do my nails now. /
8:02 / 2.33.30S 56.35.89W / Beautiful NE sprung up, around 15 knots. Would have been tempted to put some canvass up if it wasn’t bang on the nose. “Wash day” progressing well. Sheets are out, brass polished, plants fed etc etc, now tackling the heads and showers ewwww… Decided to BBQ tonight for a change, going to try out the picanha. /
09:00 / Vicious current! Which, going downstream of course, is a good thing. Keep touching on 10 knots, all the while still maintaining 1000 rpm. As we’d noticed, alternator manages to put some charge in at 1000. /
10:03 / 2.20.74S 56.22.72W / Life is great.Just because.
Been a busy morning cleaning, scrubbing and painting. Now going to read for a while. Looks like rain, but it may pass aft of PM. Making good progress, even though the speed is down to 7.6 knots. Still, over halfway now to Santarem. /
16:25 / 1.56.34S 55.41.81W / Found great anchorage, tucked in behind a sandbar separating the main river from a tiny rivulet. Will take all of two minutes to get going tomorrow morning  Very visible, but no risk of anything large running into me at 6m depth (with 100 ft chain) and will have light on for putties. Or maybe not, it’s full moon. Daily run a good 82 miles in 10 hours, ave 8.2 knots. Just over 100 miles to go… /
Tue.3rd / 05:45 / 1.56.15S 55.41.19W / Up, up, and away. Seeing where 1300 rpms brings the speed. Would be nice to reach Alter today. At normal speed PM will only reach Santarem with its bad holding in the anchorage, so will attempt to maintain around 10 knots. NEED COFFEE!!!!! Had to remove some rotten bamboo that was stuck around anchor chain. Man, the stench! Soap not working, bleach not working, now have cologne sprayed on my hands. Called mom to say all is well. /
09:00 / 2.08.58S 55.14.95W / Making good time, speed hovering around 10 knots (at moment 10.7) still at 1300 rpm. Many giant logs require a more alert watch today. Good 15 knots on the nose, actually had to close window against spray as PMs bows hit the wavelets. /
13:20 / 2.24.44S 54.43.08W / Just crossed over into the Rio Tapajos at Santarem. Upping revs to 1500 so I can reach Alter in daylight. Doing 6.2 knots. Feeling quite exhausted.
16:15 / 2.29.13S 54.58.70W / Turning off the Tapajos into the little bay of Alter do Chao YIPEEEEEE made it  Feeling relief, excitement, and a sense of accomplishment. Music blaring at full volume, pork ribs are smoking and sizzling on the BBQ, the rum and Coke is nicely chilled.
16:25 / Anchor down.
Thur.26th / 6.30am / Captain arrives at Santarem airport (but guess who overslept!) No problem. First Mate found ex Formula 1 taxi driver who literally “flew” to the airport. Its wonderful to be back on board.
Mon.30th / Spent entire day figuring out why starter wouldn’t work. Turned out there was a faulty stand alone solenoid before the starter solenoid. Remove the faulty unit and wired the starter wires direct to the starter solenoid. Big Bertha started on the first tumble.
Tue.31st / 2pm / Anchor up, waved goodbye to the wonderful Alter do Chao and headed towards Fordlandia.
5pm / 2.44.30S 55.00.92W / Anchored in 5m of water. It felt good to be back exploring and anchoring near the bank so we could watch the bird life.

Page 1 of 3