PLANT OF THE MONTH – MINT

Introduction

The mints belong to the genus Mentha in the family Labiatae (Lamiaceae) which includes other commonly grown oil-yielding plants such as basil, sage, rosemary, marjoram, lavender, pennyroyal and thyme. Within the genus Mentha there are several different species, varying in their appearance, aroma and end use. The most common ones are spearmint (M. spicata), peppermint (M. × piperita), eau-de-cologne mint (M. × piperita var. citrata) and apple mint (M. rotundifolia). All are low-growing plants, readily sending out runners, or stolons, which develop new roots and shoots at the nodes. Under good growing conditions, stems will generally reach 1 m in height.

Description

Spearmint (M. spicata). This is the most common mint grown commercially in New South Wales as well as in home gardens. Leaves are smooth, bright green and elongated with a pointed end. Flowers are a pink to lilac colour and grow in clusters on the ends of the stems.

Peppermint (M. × piperita). This is a low-growing plant that has small, pointed, dark green leaves with a purplish tinge. Peppermint is the most commonly grown species for oil production.

Eau-de-cologne (M. × piperita var. citrata). This mint has a very strong, sharp perfume. It has smooth green, oval-shaped leaves that are tinged with purple.

Apple mint (M. rotundifolia). Not a commonly grown mint in New South Wales, it is very flavoursome and characterised by its strong apple taste and perfume. The leaves are light green, soft and downy, with a rounded shape.

When identifying mints, remember that all varieties will cross-pollinate, making sorting them out difficult. If varietal purity is to be maintained, each one must be grown in isolation.

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Climate

The mints will grow in a wide range of climates as shown by their popularity in home gardens all over Australia. Ideally, they require plenty of sun, growing best in the long midsummer days of the higher latitudes. For this reason, the Australian mint industry has developed mostly in Tasmania, particularly for oil production. Ideal growing temperatures for mint are warm sunny days (25°C) and cool nights (15°C). This is why, in the hotter climates, mint generally grows better in the more shaded areas of the garden.

Soil

Mints do best in deep, rich soils of friable texture high in organic matter. The preferred pH range is from 6.0–7.5. A high water requirement means that soils must be deep and well drained while holding plenty of water.

Planting

Mint can be propagated either vegetatively or by seed. Vegetative propagation is achieved by digging up plants in late winter–early spring and dividing them into runners with roots, then replanting. This will prevent the plants from becoming root-bound and prone to disease, ensuring strong, healthy plants for the new season.

Planting distance will vary with the type of mechanical equipment used to cultivate and manage the crop. A suitable row spacing is 50 cm with runners planted 10 cm apart within the rows. Using this system, three rows can be planted to a raised bed. As plantings develop, rows will become a continuous mass of mint.

Nutrition

Mint requires a well-balanced nutrition program. Experience has shown that an annual dressing of animal manure will supply a good balance of major and minor elements. Care should be taken not to supply excessive amounts of nitrogen. Approximately 10 t/ha of good quality fowl manure applied midwinter will provide a reasonable nutrient program. If soil pH drops below 6.0 it may be necessary to apply dolomite or lime to raise the pH to the desired level.

Irrigation

For maximum production, mint requires large amounts of water compared with other crops. To keep soil moist during periods of high evaporation, plantings should be irrigated at least twice a week. During the growth period in summer, plants can require up to 1500 mm of water.

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Weed control

Weed control in mint crops is important to ensure that there is no contamination by foreign plant material at harvest. The selection of planting areas with low weed populations and a good kill of weeds prior to planting is important. Due to the lack of herbicides registered for use in mint in New South Wales, hand weeding is the most effective form of weed control.

Diseases

Mint rust is a serious disease that attacks the common mint species. The use of disease-free planting material and a sound rotation with other crops will help control it. Rust affects the leaves and shoots and if not controlled will quickly defoliate the plant. Plants can be flamed with a propane gas burner in spring to destroy diseased material before new shoots appear.

Pests

Mint can be attacked by a wide range of pests. The main ones are loopers, leafrollers, slugs, snails and aphids.

Harvesting

The intensity of flavour and aroma in the mint plant is dependent on the level of essential oil in the plant. Oil content is at its maximum at the commencement of flowering. Harvesting is best done early in the morning when the plants are turgid and before any temporary wilting occurs.

If mint is to be fresh it is best cut with shears or a sickle bar mower and bunched. It should then be kept moist, and cooled prior to marketing.

PLANT OF THE MONTH - ROSEMARY

Rosemary is a small perennial shrub of the mint family. This compact evergreen, with clusters of small light blue flowers and leaves that yield a fragrant essential oil used in making perfume and to flavour food, is native to the Mediterranean region.

Legend says that the Virgin Mary, while resting, spread her cloak over a white flowering rosemary bush. The flowers turned the blue of her cloak, and from then on the bush was referred to as the “Rose of Mary”.

This plant was, in ancient times, supposed to strengthen memory. Greek scholars wore rosemary in their hair to help remember their studies, and the association with remembrance has carried through to modern times. In literature and folklore it is an emblem of remembrance.

On ANZAC Day, the wearing of small sprigs of rosemary in the coat lapel, pinned to the breast or held in place by medals is thus synonymous with remembrance and commemoration.


PLANT OF THE MONTH - MANDARIN

The common mandarin (citrus reticulata) originated in south-eastern China. It is a small citrus tree with fruit that looks like a small orange, but is shaped like a pumpkin. The tree can be thorny and has broad leaves. It forms single flowers and seeds that are small and green on the inside. The fruit has bright orange peel that is easily separated. There are a number of varieties of mandarin, such as Ellendale, Emperor, Imperial and Dancy.
The fruit is not hardy and can be damaged in cooler weather – tropical or Mediterranean temperatures are best. Mandarins like more heat than another citrus tree. If you’re not living in a warmer climate, it is difficult to grow mandarin trees, so try to plant mandarins in a well-protected area in the garden with plenty of sunlight. The best areas in Australia for growing mandarins are Queensland, southern New South Wales and northern Victoria.
How to grow a mandarin tree?
• Prefers Mediterranean to sub-tropical climate conditions
• Plant in full sun in the springtime
• Requires rich, composted fertile soils that are well-drained
• Fruit develops within three to five years
Mandarins are grown in the same way as orange trees, but mandarins are very sensitive to frost. It is best to grow a mandarin in early autumn or early spring to avoid the effects of winter frost and cold. Gently tease the roots of the plant and place in a hole that is 30-50cm wider than the container it came in. Make sure the planting hole is shallow, so when the backfill soil is returned to the hole, the soil is no higher than the bud union (or graft). Add rich compost to the soil and create a mound, keeping it away from the graft. Add straw or grass clippings. Do not over-water newly planted mandarin trees – or any newly planted tree, in fact.
Tip: Apply plenty of sheep manure. Thin out the branches in the centre to allow sunlight and air circulation, which helps the flowers set properly so that fruit can be produced.

PLANT OF THE MONTH

Limes

In the Garden > Herbs, Fruit and Vegetables

Limes

The most fashionable citrus at the moment is the lime. Demand for varieties like Tahitian and Kaffir has built up tremendously over the last few years, probably because they are so popular in Asian cooking. Limes are an excellent source of Vitamin C and they are a great substitute for lemons. They can be used for drinks, seafood dishes, chicken, meats, desserts, cakes, biscuits and marmalade.

Tahitian lime (Citrus aurantifolia)

This variety produces very juicy fruit all year round. The plants grow to around 3x3m (10x10') tall, and they do well in the garden or in pots. The seedless fruit is small and green when ripe, although it can be left on the tree until it turns yellow. Tahitian limes are easy to grow. They are reasonably frost tolerant, but in very cold areas you should wait until spring before you plant.

Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix)

Kaffir limes will reach 1.5 metres (5') tall, but because the leaves are constantly being picked for cooking, the plants usually remain small in size. They also make good pot specimens. The leaves of the Kaffir lime are an essential ingredient of many Thai recipes, including green curries, fish dishes and soups. The flesh of the fruit is usually thrown away, but the rind and zest is sometimes used. Each leaf is 'waisted', and looks like two leaves joined together.

Australian finger lime (Citrus australasica 'Rainforest Pearl')

Formerly known as Microcitrusaustralasica, the Australian finger lime grows from 3-10m (10-33') tall. It is a hardy, spiny, shrub or small tree which is closely related to the domestic citrus. The fruit is long and narrow, and is a brownish red colour. It has a sour taste and is probably best used for Thai cooking, jams, garnishes, sauces and drinks. If possible, before you buy an Australian lime, taste the fruit to see if you like the flavour.

Best climate: Limes grow well in the warmer areas of Australia. Worth a try in cooler zones, but protect from frost when young.

Citrus care: A position in full sun is best. Keep trees well watered when the fruit is forming in spring and early summer. Trees growing in the ground should be fertilised in August and February. Complete Citrus Food alternating with Dynamic Lifter would be suitable. Feed citrus growing in pots every six to eight weeks. Once again alternate Complete Citrus Food with Dynamic Lifter, or use 3-4 month Osmocote applied in spring and early summer. Feed Australian finger limes with an organic fertiliser in late winter and spring. Water well before and after fertilising. Keep the area beneath your trees free of grass and weeds. Mulch with compost or other organic material, but make sure that the mulch does not touch the trunk of the tree.

Getting started: Tahitian and Kaffir limes are available from nurseries. They cost around $15-$25 for 200mm (8") pots, and $25-$30 for 250mm (10") pots, or 15 litre bags. Expect to pay around $25-$30 for Australian finger limes in 5 litre bags. These will probably be more difficult to find, and it may be necessary to order one from your local nursery.

PLANT OF THE MOINTH

Sandra, Spathiphyllum

Description
Sandra is aSpathiphyllum with a very free flowering habit.Spathiphyllums come from the jungles of South America where they grow in fairly deep shade but areas where reasonable light comes in from the edge of the jungle or where a tree has blown down. Flowers on most varieties are white in colour but some have a touch of green on them. They are ideal house plants.Sandracomes into flower several times a year when grown under well lit conditions.Sandrawas selected from a batch of seedlings raised by a Spathiphyllum breeder in Florida, Mr. Norman Hickerso, who is well-known in the foliage industry in the USA.
Plant Useage
Spathiphyllums are one of the most widely grown houseplants in the world. They are easily grown from seed or tissue culture which makes them cost-effective for most home gardeners. Plants are used for interior decoration and can stand darker conditions than most plants as long as the moisture is regulated. In subtropical and tropical areas SpathiphyllumSandraTcanbe used as groundcover planting under the shade of large trees. In commercial plantings very large areas are often planted out with good results.
Growing Conditions
Spathiphyllums like warmth. Constant moisture is certainly beneficial. Drying out will cause foliage collapse. Thorough watering at this stage will mean an almost complete recovery but flowering suffers.
Plant Care
Sandraneeds to be watered well a couple of times a week during the warm weather. In winter time once a week is sufficient. As the plants have so many leaves they do use a lot of water in most interior situations where the atmosphere is quite dry. Some people stand them in pot saucers which collect excess water when you give the plant its weekly drink. It is important however that the plants are not allowed to sit in excess water for long periods of time.Fertilising with a well-balanced liquid fertiliser in Spring, Summer and early Autumn is beneficial. This is when the plants are in full growth. Flowering will not occur unless the light levels for the plants are right. In most cases plants grown inside the home will not flower there. This is not always the case, it depends entirely on the amount of light the plant receives.
PLANT OF THE MONTH – DAPHNE odora
In the cooler parts of Southern Australia, Daphne odora is a plant that captures the imagination of gardeners because of its fragrance, but there are 50 different species of daphne throughout the world - some are deciduous and others are evergreen.
Daphnes are generally neat, compact plants that are at home in dappled shade. Daphne species vary in habit - some are erect, while others are rounded or even spreading. The showy rounded heads of the small flowers open from mid-winter to late spring, depending on the species, and they can be in delicate shades of white, cream, yellow or pink. Daphne odora has pink and white flowers and there is a variegated form with white flowers, and they're all fragrant.
Daphnes, either in the garden or in pots, are rewarding plants, but there are a few things that can go wrong.
Look out for leaves that are light green, and that hang down. This indicates the plant might need a feed. After it has finished flowering, give it some fertiliser, especially iron chelates. Often daphnes also suffer from root rot. The plant could easily have been over-watered, and the roots then rot causing the leaves to look bedraggled.
Another problem that daphnes have is the leaves suddenly hanging down limply, and feeling leathery and dry. Most often, this is also caused by over watering. About 20 years ago, there was a daphne virus, but, with proper hygiene and better plant propagation methods, rarely do you get virus in daphne. People think that daphne love to be moist all the time, but you should just water the daphne and let it dry out. Use mulch to keep the roots cool.
If daphnes are over or under watered, it causes them great stress and that's when insects like scale attack. Scale looks like little brown or black dots that appear on the leaves, their undersides, and the stems. Underneath the scale’s protective helmet is an insect. Just squash them, or smother the scale with white oil or canola oil.
Daphnes like morning sun or an easterly-facing spot - anywhere that's got shade from the hot afternoon sun. Don't forget really good drainage is also important.
When you're planting out a potted daphne, just be careful - the roots should be white and healthy. Try not to damage the roots as you're planting, so there is no need to tickle them out. Just plant it and mulch to cool the roots, and when it finishes flowering in spring, fertilise with organic matter, and prune it at that time too. Keep it moist over summer, cool the roots and you're home and hosed with your daphne.
The rewards of having a happy and healthy daphne plant become obvious in those months when their lovely scent wafts through your garden. Picking some and placing it in a vase inside will fill the house with perfume.
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DAPHENE odora
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PLANT OF THE MONTH