Pb N= Front Cover Id= Linc001

STAND FAST

GRANT

ENDOWMENT FUND

BEATRICE V. GRANT

{smaller text}

MSU 1929-1965

PROFESSOR of FOODS & NUTRITION

COLLECTOR of RARE COOKERY BOOK

{smaller text}

Her private collection of rare cookery books was donated by her sister Dr. Rhoda Grant to the MSU Libraries. May 1984.

MRS. LINCOLN'S

BOSTON COOK BOOK.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IN COOKING.

MRS. D. A. LINCOLN,

OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL.

BOSTON:

ROBERTS BROTHERS.

1884.

<emph rend="italic">Copyright, 1883.</emph>

BY MRS. D. A. LINCOLN

UNIVERSITY PRESS:

JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE.

This Book is Dedicated

MRS. SAMUEL T. HOOPER,

PRESIDENT OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL,

IN RECOGNITION OF HER ZEAL IN EVERY GOOD WORK FOR THE

BENEFIT OF WOMAN;

AND TO
THE PUPILS, PAST AND PRESENT,
OF THE
<emph rend="italic">BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL,</emph>

WHOSE ENTHUSIASM IN THEIR WORK HAS MADE THE LABOR OF

TEACHING A DELIGHT.

"Not to know at large of things remote

From use, obscure and subtle, but to know

That which before us lies in daily life,

Is the prime wisdom."

MILTON. {aligned right}

"To know what you do know, and not to know what you do not

know, is true knowledge."--CONFUCIUS.

PREFACE.

To compile a book which shall be not only a collection of receipts, given briefly for the experienced housekeeper and with sufficient clearness for the beginner, but which shall also embody enough of physiology, and of the chemistry and philosophy of food, to make every principle intelligible to a child and interesting to the mature mind; which shall serve equally well for the cook in the kitchen, the pupil in the school-room, and the teacher in the normal class,--is a difficult task. Yet the need of a book of moderate cost, containing in a reasonably small compass all this and much more, has been seriously felt by all who are engaged in teaching cookery. Moreover, there is a special reason for the publication of this work. It is undertaken at the urgent request of the pupils of the Boston Cooking School, who have desired that the receipts and lessons given during the last four years in that institution should be arranged in a permanent form.

To one who from childhood has been trained in all details of housework, learning by observation or by actual experience much that it is impossible to receive from books, the amount of ignorance shown by many women is surprising. That a person of ordinary intelligence presiding over her household can be satisfied with only a vague conception of the common domestic methods, or that any true woman can see anything degrading in any labor necessary for the highest physical condition of her

family, would be incredible if the truth of it were not daily manifest.

Happily, popular opinion now decides that no young lady's education is complete without a course of training in one or more branches of domestic work. And those who are not so fortunate as to have the best of all training--that of actual work under a wise and competent mother--gladly resort to the cooking-schools for instruction.

In compiling these receipts for use in a school and in the family, several things were demanded. In a school of pupils from every class and station in life, a great variety of receipts is desirable. They must be clear, but concise, for those who are already well grounded in first principles. They must be explained, illustrated, and reiterated for the inexperienced and the careless. They must have a word of caution for those who seem always to have the knack of doing the wrong thing. They must include the most healthful foods for those who have been made ill by improper food; the cheapest as well as the most nutritious, for the laboring class; the richest and most elaborately prepared, for those who can afford them physically as well as pecuniarily.

These receipts are not a mere compilation. A large portion have accumulated during a long period of house-keeping; and many have been received from friends who are practical housekeepers. Others have been taken from standard authorities on cooking; and all have been frequently and thoroughly tested by pupils under the eye of the author. As far as possible, acknowledgement has been made for the receipts received. Where changes and improvements have been made, or where there were many authorities for the same formula, no credit has been given.

Some cook-books presuppose the presence of an assistant; but as three fourths of the women in this country

do their own work, these receipts are arranged so as to require the attention of but one person.

It is proverbial that young housekeepers are often greatly perplexed in attempting to provide little enough for only two. For their benefit many of our receipts are prepared on a scale of smaller measurements.

The materials to be used are given in the order in which they are to be put together. They are arranged in columns, where the eye may catch them readily, or in <emph rend="italic">italics</emph> where economy of space seemed desirable.

Every caution or suggestion has been given at the request of some pupil who failed to find in other books just what she needed; or because, in the experience of teaching, it has been shown that, unless forewarned, pupils inevitably make certain mistakes. Many subjects which in other books are omitted or given briefly, will be found to have received here an extensive treatment, because they have seemed of paramount importance.

All the chemical and physiological knowledge that is necessary for a clear understanding of the laws of health, so far as they are involved in the science of cookery, is given in this book. Nine tenths of the women who go through a scientific course in seminaries never put any of the knowledge gained into practical use. By the time they have occasion to use such knowledge in their own homes, the Chemistry and Physiology have been relegated to the attic, where they help mice to material for their nests, but help no woman to apply the principles of science upon which the health and welfare of her household largely depend.

The statement will appear incredible to most people, and yet it is true, that many women do not know what the simplest things in our daily food are; cannot tell when water boils, or the difference between lamb and veal, lard and drippings. They cannot give the names of kitchen

utensils; do not know anything about a stove, or how to pare a potato. This will explain what might otherwise seem an unnecessary minuteness of detail. The experience of such ignorance also suggested the sub-title of the "Boston Cook Book,"--"What to do and what not to do in Cooking,"--just <emph rend="italic">how</emph> to hold your bowl and spoon, to use your hands, to regulate your stove, to wash your dishes; and just <emph rend="italic">how not</emph> to fall into the errors into which so many have stumbled before you. But, more than all, it is attempted to give a reason for every step taken, and a clear answer to any questions that are likely to arise in the experience of either housekeeper or cook.

A PREFACE NOT FOR THE PUBLIC.

A WORD of grateful acknowledgement is due the many friends who have aided in this work.

First, to my mother I owe much for her excellent judgment in training me as a child to a love for all household work. Although it was often hard to "help mother" when other children were at play, the knowledge thus gained has proved invaluable. Every year's experience in teaching has made me prize more and more this early training.

Also, I am deeply indebted to Miss M. S. DEVEREUX for the illustrations of this book. In all my work I have been greatly aided by her suggestions and generous sympathy.

And, lastly, I would not forget my obligations to a large circle of personal friends. Especially would I remember the one who, twenty years ago, aided me in making my first loaf of bread, and the many among my pupils who, out of their varied experience, have contributed much that has proved helpful.

MARY J. LINCOLN {left aligned}

WOLLASTON, MASS., 1884.

CONTENTS. {centered}

PAGE {right aligned, above page numbers}

INTRODUCTION ...... ………………….……... 1

BREAD AND BREAD MAKING ...... ………………. 36

RECEIPTS FOR YEAST AND BREAD ...... ………….. 62

RAISED BISCUIT, ROLLS, ETC...... …………………. 68

STALE BREAD, TOAST, ETC...... …………………. 75

SODA BISCUIT, MUFFINS, GEMS, ETC . . . . …….……... 80

WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE-CAKES ...... ……………. 97

FRIED MUFFINS, FRITTERS, DOUGHNUTS, ETC …….. 102

OATMEAL AND OTHER GRAINS ...... ……………... 108

BEVERAGES ...... ………………………….... 111

SOUP AND STOCK ...... ……………………….. 119

SOUP WITHOUT STOCK ...... …………….. . ……... 146

FISH ...... ……………………….…………. 159

SHELL FISH ...... …………………….……….. 175

MEAT AND FISH SAUCES ...... ……………. . . ……… 187

EGGS ...... …………………………………. 197

MEAT ...... ……………………….………... 210

BEEF ...... ………………………………….. 214

MUTTON AND LAMB ...... …………………….... 232

VEAL ...... …………………………………. 239

PORK ...... …………………………………. 245

POULTRY AND GAME...... ……………………. 251

ENTRÉES AND MEAT RÉchauffÉ . . 265

SUNDRIES ...... 282

VEGETABLES ...... …………………………………………... 289

RICE AND MACARONI ...... …………………………………….. 306

SALADS ...... ………………………………………………. 309

PASTRY AND PIES ...... ………………………………………... 316

PUDDING SAUCES ...... ……………………………………….. 328

HOT PUDDINGS ...... …………………………………………. 331

CUSTARDS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS . . . . . …………………………….. 341

ICE-CREAM AND SHERBERT ...... ………………………………… 361

CAKE ...... ………………………………………………… 369

FRUIT ...... ……………………………………………….... 391

COOKING FOR INVALIDS ...... …………………………………... 407

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS ...... …………………………………... 435

THE DINING-ROOM ...... ………………………………………. 439

THE CARE OF KITCHEN UTENSILS . . . . . ……………………………... 443

AN OUTLINE OF STUDY FOR TEACHERS . . . ………………………… 449

SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS ...... ………………………………... 483

A COURSE OF STUDY FOR NORMAL PUPILS . . …………………….… 485

MICSCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS FOR EXAMINATION . . ……………. 486

TOPICS AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR LECTURES ON COOKERY …….. 490

COURSE OF INSTRUCTION AT THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL…. 495

EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED IN COOKERY . . . . …………………. 503

LIST OF UTENSILS NEEDED IN A COOKING-SCHOOL . . ……………. 508

GENERAL INDEX ...... ……………………………………….… 513

ALPHABETICAL INDEX ...... ……………………………………. 529

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. {centered}

PAGE {right aligned, over page numbers}

FIG. 1. Grain of Wheat …………………… 37

" 2. Grain of Wheat with Bran removed …38

" 3. Grain of Wheat magnified …………. 38

" 4. Yeast Plant ………………………….. 46

" 5. Cruller …………………………….. 105

" 6. Cruller after Folding ……………… 105

" 7. Baked Fish ………………………… 164

" 8. Small Fish served whole ………….. 166

" 9. Scalloped Lobster ………………… 183

" 10. Omelet ...... 201

" 11. Orange Omelet ...... 202

" 12. Eggs and Minced Meat ...... 205

" 13. Stuffed Eggs ...... 206

" 14. Eggs à la Crême …. 208

" 15. Diagram of Ox …………………... 212

" 16. Hind Quarter of Beef …………… . 212

" 17. Aitch Bone ……………………….. 214

" 18. Round ……………………………. 215

" 19. Back of Rump ……………………. 216

" 20. First Cut of Sirloin ……………….. 216

" 21. Sirloin Roast …………………….. 217

" 22. Tip of Sirloin …………………….. 218

" 23. First Cut of Rib ………………….. 219

" 24. Chuck of Rib …………………….. 219

" 25. Fillet of Beef …………………….. 222

" 26. Mutton Duck ……………………. 235

" 27. Paper Ruffle …………………….. 236

" 28. Chop ……………………………. 237

" 29. Chop in Paper…………………… 237

PAGE

FIG. 30. Calf's Heart …………………… 241

" 31. Sweetbreads and Bacon ……….. 243

" 32. Sweetbreads on Macaroni………. 244

" 33. Pigeons and Spinach on Toast …. 264

" 34. Boned Turkey, browned ...... 265

" 35. Boned Turkey, larded and baked . 266

" 36. Chicken in Jelly ………………... 267

" 37. Meat Porcupine ………………… 272

" 38. Croquettes ……………………… 279

" 39. Stuffed Potatoes ……………….. 296

" 40. Chicken Salad …………………. 314

" 41. Lobster Salad ………………….. 315

" 42. Bow-Knots …………………….. 321

" 43. Cheese Straws ……………….… 322

" 44. Apple Snowballs ………………. 335

" 45. Orange Charlotte ……………….. 348

" 46. Orange Baskets ………………… 351

" 47. Mould of Bavarian Cream …….. 357

" 48. Royal Diplomatic Pudding …….. 358

" 49. Strawberry Charlotte …………. 360

" 50. Cookies ………………………... 386

THE BOSTON COOK BOOK.

COOKERY

COOKERY is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the human body. When given its proper importance in the consideration of health and comfort, it must be based upon scientific principles of hygiene and what the French call the minor moralities of the household. All civilized nations cook their food, to improve its taste and digestibility. The degree of civilization is often measured by the cuisine.

Cooking (from the Latin <emph rend="italic">coquo</emph>, to boil, bake, heat, dry, scorch, or ripen) is usually done by the direct application of heat. Fruits and some vegetables which are eaten in a natural state have really been cooked or ripened by the heat of the sun. Milk and eggs, which are types of perfect food, would be useless as food unless they came from the warm living animal. Fish, flesh, and fruits which have been dried in the sun or smoked, and are often eaten without any further preparation, have undergone a certain process of natural cooking.

<p<emph rend="italic">Heat</emph> seems to create new flavors, and to change the odor, taste, and digestibility of nearly all articles of food. It swells and bursts the starch cells in flour, rice, and potatoes; hardens the albumen in eggs, fish, and meat; softens the fibrous substances in tough meats, hard vegetables and fruits. It develops new flavors in tea, coffee, roasted meat, crusts of bread, baked beans, etc.

<p<emph rend="italic">Cold</emph> is also an important matter to be regarded in the preparation of food. Sweet dishes and certain flavors, like honey, ices, and custards; the water, wine, or milk we drink; our butter, fruits, and salads,--are all more palatable when cold.

<p<emph rend="italic">Water</emph>, or some other liquid, in connection with heat is necessary in many forms of cookery. Grains, peas, beans, dried fruits which have parted with nearly all their moisture in the ripening or drying process necessary for their preservation, need a large portion of water in cooking, to soften and swell the cellulose, gluten, and starch before they can be masticated and digested. In some vegetables and fruits water draws out certain undesirable flavors; it softens and dissolves the gelatinous portions of meat, and makes palatable and nourishing many substances which would be rendered unwholesome by a dry heat.

<p<emph rend="italic">Air</emph>, or the free action of oxygen, upon our food while cooking develops certain flavors not otherwise to be obtained. Meat roasted or broiled has a much finer flavor than when boiled, baked, or fried. Toasted bread, thin corn cake baked before the fire, roasted apples, and many articles cooked in the open air, show the benefit of this free combined action of heat and air.

Drying in the sun was one of the earliest modes of cookery. Then came roasting before an open fire, or broiling over the coals, and baking in the hot ashes. This last was the primitive oven. As the art of making cooking-utensils developed, stewing, boiling, and frying were adopted. Then, to economize heat, portable ovens were invented; these were originally a covered dish set over or near the fire, having sometimes a double cover filled with coals. Afterwards, stoves which kept the fire and heat in a limited space were introduced; and improvements have been made in them so extensively that we now have them with conveniences for doing every form of cooking with wood, coal, oil, or gas.

Some one gives this distinction between man and other animals: "Man is an animal that builds a fire and uses it

to cook his food." It is quite important then, as a stepping-stone to cooking, to learn the properties and management of a fire.

Fire.

<p<emph rend="italic">Fire</emph> is heat and light produced by the combustion of inflammable substances. Combustion is a chemical operation carried on in the air, or the chemical union of the oxygen of the air with some combustible body, like hydrogen gas or the solid carbon, and is attended with the evolution of heat and light. The heat and the light come from the sun. With every particle of vegetable matter that is formed by the combined action of the sun and the carbonic acid gas in the air, a portion of the sun's heat and light is absorbed and held fast in it. And whenever this vegetable matter is decomposed,--as in burning wood, coal, or oil, which are only definite forms of vegetable matter,--this heat and light are given out. The amount of each depends upon the mode of burning.

<p<emph rend="italic">Air</emph> is composed mainly of two elementary gases, oxygen and nitrogen (one part oxygen and four parts nitrogen), with a small amount of watery vapor and carbonic acid gas.

Pure oxygen is a gas which has a wonderful attraction for, and power of combination with, every other element. If it were everywhere present in a perfectly pure state, it would consume or burn up everything; but it is diluted or mixed (not combined) with nitrogen, another gas which is incombustible, and which lessens the combustibility of everything with which it comes in contact. Owing to this dilution, the oxygen will not unite with the carbon and hydrogen with which it is everywhere surrounded, and produce <emph rend="italic">rapid</emph> combustion, except at a high temperature. The temperature at which this union takes place is called the burning-point, and this varies in different substances. Thus combustion is within the power and control of man; and some extra means are usually employed to increase the temperature to the burning-point,--friction, or percussion, or the use of some more highly inflammable

substances, like sulphur and phosphorus. This produces heat sufficient to complete the chemical union, or, in common phrase, "kindles the fire."

The heat generated for all household purposes is produced by the chemical action of the oxygen of the air upon the hydrogen and carbon which are found in the various kinds of wood and coal. The oxygen first combines with the carbon and decomposes it, producing carbonic acid gas, which escapes into the air, from which it is absorbed by plants, or by human lungs when there is no proper ventilation. The oxygen also combines with the hydrogen gas in the fuel, and this produces the flame; the larger the amount of hydrogen in the fuel, the greater the amount of flame. Some of the products of combustion are not entirely consumed, and pass off as smoke; some are incombustible, and remain as ashes. The intensity of a fire and the amount of heat which it produces are always in proportion to the amount of oxygen with which it is supplied. There should be just air enough for perfect combustion. An excess of air projected upon a fire conveys away the heat, cools the fuel, and checks the combustion. The supply of air should be controlled by confining it in a limited space.