Overkill Gen2 FWI installation instructions
This guide will help you install your new Gen2FWI kit. It will install fairly easily and won’t take much of your time, there’s no metal cutting or permanent alterations needed either, however these steps should be followed closely to ensure proper installation and performance! Now lets get started
Your kit should include:
-K&N 7” cone filter (RU-2590) with bandclamp
-Black flexible tubing approx 18-19” long for most applications
-Thin band clamp with smooth edges
-Plastic shield with rubbing trim moulding and double sided tape affixed on the backside
-Wiring extension harness for the IAT
-PCM tray with mounting hardware (double sided tape or self tapping screws)
-Black cylindrical spacer
-M6x80 socket head bolt with fender washer
-Little tube of dielectric grease
-Alcohol wipe (usually a little glass cleaner wipe)
Step 1: Remove your existing intake system
Depending on what your existing intake is, it must be completely removed. If you have a stock airbox, the procedure should be something like this:
1)Remove the rubber ducting from the throttle body and then from the airbox
2)Unclip the metal clips to release the air filter cover and remove, remove air filter
3)97-98s are two piece boxes held together with clamps, the 99+ with 8mm screws. Remove these, separate the box and remove the PCM from the box.
4)Remove any 10mm bolts securing the rest of the PCM box at the bottom and then remove the box. You may need to loose the crossbrace to gain room to remove such a large item, they are 13mm bolts, use some WD40 if they are rusty and hard to remove.
5)Remove the IAT sensor from the rubber ducting, its just pressed in albeit very securely, wiggle and WD40 as needed to remove.
Step 2: Install the PCM tray
The PCM tray will lay flat in a 10oclock position as shown in the picture. Test fit to ensure yours will fit, some cars with vary with different A/C condenser positions due to factory assembley tolerances.
The tray should be mounted as far down and to the left as possible, test fit the filter shield against the fender to ensure proper clearances if you desire. Once you are happy, mark and drill two mounting holes for the tray. If you do not wish to drill, you can alternatively use double sided mounting tape to secure the tray. Pop the PCM into the tray as shown and then set the tray into its final position and secure.
Step 3: Modify fenderwell brace
There is a brace inside the fenderwell. It must be bent as far back as possible to accommodate the filter. This piece has been disconnected for years on test cars, no adverse effects have ever been reported, however kits now come with optional hardware to hook the brace back up as per your requests.
Remove your headlight with a 10mm socket and the two top bolts, the headlight with then slide towards the outside of the car, then forward and out.
Reach into the fender and follow the brace downwards until you can feel or see the 10mm bolt that secures the brace, remove the bolt. The brace may now be bent backwards out of the way, you can do this from inside the engine by pushing the bottom of it back as far as you can.
To optionally reconnect the brace, grab the black plastic spacer, long M6 bolt and fender washer from the bag of parts. The spacer will go between the brace and its mounting point, the bolt and washer are the replacement fastener. You will have to test fit the spacer, then use a pair of pliers to bend down the very bottom tab of the brace until it orients itself to the spacer. Then use the bolt and washer and secure it, you will need a 5mm allen bit to tighten the bolt, snug will do as there isn’t much if any force on this brace.
Reinstall the headlight now, be mindful of the two locating tabs, one on the inside side of the assembley, the other behind the headlight in the middle, the assembley will need to be reinstalled as it was removed. See the following picture for the inside tab orientation, once that is connected the assembley can be swung back an inch or so to the outside of the mounting bolts, then slide the assembley inwards to engage the rear tab. The headlight mounting bolts should now line up, reinstall the bolts, tighten snug.
Step 4: Install the filter shield
With the tray inplace and the brace taken care of, lets now install the filter shield. Its held against the fender with double sided mounting tape. With the tape backing intact, test fit the shield to get used to its orientation; you’ll want it to be as downward and against the strut tower as possible for the filter to slide through the fender opening without having to bend the lips of the opening for it to fit.
Now the surface where the tape secures to must be cleaned. If its very dirty, start with a degreaser like Simple Green and a sponge and get it right down to the painted surface, nice and free of dirt and grease. If you have undercoating, you’ll be best to try and remove it in this area with a stronger degreaser like Castrol Super Clean and a scrubbing pad.
For final cleaning, use the alcohol wipe or some Windex and once its clean don’t touch the area!
The metal surface must be relatively warm for best tape adhesion, so if its cold use a heat gun or the wife/girlfriends hairdryer (with her permission) and warm the surface.
Now peel the area tape backing and set the shield in place as you test fitted before. The tape is super strong adhesion so don’t let it touch the surface until you’re certain about its position! Once you’re satisfied and have pressed the shield against the fender, hold it there for at least 30 seconds to bond with the surface before releasing.
Step 5: Filter and tubing
With the shield mounted, time to pop the filter in. Take the little packet of dielectric grease and spread a thin even layer around the rubber trim molding where the filter will slide into, this’ll help it slide home a lot easier.
Grab your filter now, take it out of the wrapping and check to make sure nothing is inside of it. The filter is preoiled, its ready to use from K&N. Use the dielectric grease again on the inside of the filter lip where it’ll fit over the tubing, this’ll help the tubing slide into it much easier.
From the engine side, slide the filter into the shield. Twist the filter towards the end to full seat it inside the rubber trim. Its fully in when there is no red cotton exposed to the engine side of the shield.
Now its time for the tubing. Grab the included clamp and make sure its over the tubing before you position it inplace. This tubing is going to slide right over the stock throttle body and clamp right down on it, it is also going to slide right into the filter and the filter will clamp to it. It doesn’t matter which way the tubing goes.
Slide the tubing inside the filter first but don’t tighten anything, now slide it over the throttle body. A tip is to slide the bottom of the tubing over first, so you can see that it did indeed slide over and not get caught up, then slide the top over. Ensure the tubing is over the throttle body and not caught up anywhere, it should be nice and smooth, then go ahead and tighten down the clamp completely and securely, there should be no slack and a socket is recommended over a screwdriver for more leverage, make sure its snug!.
Moving back to the filter, slide the tubing out and back into the filter so that approx 2” of the tubing is inside. There should be a slight preload on the filter from the tubing wanting to uncoil, this is normal and serves the purposes of keeping the filter more securely inside the shield and having slack in the tubing to allow for engine movement back and forth. Once you are satisfied, tighten down the clamp. The filter clamp just needs to be nice and snug and secure, no need to reef on the clamp to tighten it, it’ll only begin to compress the tubing.
Step 6: IAT
Finally take the temperature sensor that you pulled out of the rubber tubing from the factory, this goes into the grommet you see in the filter shield. Use some dielectric to slide it home more easily. Then take the IAT extension harness, connect the sensor to the factory harness and then the sensor itself, tiestrapping it or looping it through other wiring or hosing if necessary to keep it out of the way.
Things to keep in mind about this system is it’ll make a sucking sound on N/A applications and you’ll hear the supercharger whine much more prominently on supercharged vehicles, this is normal and very cool sounding so enjoy!
Also, you will hear an odd noise at startup, best described as dragging a metal shovel across the pavement. It’s caused by the factory throttle body and its small idle air control passages and you’re actually hearing a large but controlled vacuum leak as the computer idles the car higher at cold startup. This is 100% normal and happens with all aftermarket intakes, nothing to be concerned about. While it may be irritating, my best consolation to you is it’ll go away if you upgrade to a Northstar throttle body down the road!