Oklahoma Agricultural Leadership Program
Spain and Morocco International Experience
Scribe Notes
February 28-March 1, 2010
Day 1
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Rose Bonjour
It is said a journey of a hundred miles begins with a single step. Class XIV of the Oklahoma Ag Leadership Program began their international journey by meeting at Will Rogers Airport in Oklahoma City at 10:00 a.m. In addition to the class members, Dr. Sue Williams accompanied the class, as did Clinton Griffiths with SunUp, who will be preparing information for on Hayes to include in his online news letter. After greeting each other, the classmates received their packet from AgroTours which included our tickets and an agenda. Michael Marlow checked out the headphones to all the class members. The check in process was very smooth and thankfully everyone’s suitcase weighed less than the required 50 pounds.
Once through security, we settled down for our three hour wait to board the plane. Most class members took the opportunity to each lunch. Class members also enjoyed visiting and although the plane coming into Oklahoma City was slightly late, we got off on time.
After an uneventful flight we arrived in Dallas for a brief layover. Some chose ice cream to tie them over before Chairperson Allen Entz pulled the group together. After some directions and discussion, Burton lead us in a prayer to keep us safe on our journey and protection for our friends and family we left in behind. On time, we left at 5:45 p.m. and settled in for a LONG flight. Dinner consisted of chicken and pasta or beef and potatoes. Approximately 3:00 a.m., somewhere just past the Bermuda Triangle, we experienced turbulence for awhile. The flight was around 9 hours long.
Day 2
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Mary Steichen and Chad Selman
The day began with everyone awaking to the smell of coffee (except for Lisa who slept through breakfast) and a good morning greeting from Annette. After breakfast, John and Jared brushed their teeth in the cabin and monitored the progress of our flight path. Everyone looked tired upon arrival at Madrid Airport but headed off the plane eagerly to go through immigration and then figure out where to catch the next flight. As we wandered through the airport, we used team work to accomplish our mission and found our gate. Dana was mesmerized by the cleanliness of the airport and Mary and Annette bought the first purchases – coffee con leches and sushi. The flight to Malaga was uneventful and upon our arrival, we were greeted by Eduardo Van Doorne (“Eduardo”) who loaded us up on the “coach” and we began our adventures in Spain and Morocco (yes, right). Eduardo chatted about the history of the area and his family background while we were traveling. Our first stop was the seaside town of Torremolinos, which is Eduardo’s hometown. We were allowed to roam free for a couple of hours in a gentle, coastal rain. Annette and John ogled over the big bell peppers and variety of fruits. We took off for lunch on our own where one group was “Lopezed” when ordering lunch. Money was exchanged and a group picture was taken. Everyone enjoyed getting a sense of Europe – statues and plazas and walkways. Window shopping was particularly interesting with the marijuana utensils on display. We hopped on the bus and ended up in Algeciras where we checked into the hotel, showered for dinner (or went to Ash Wednesday services in the old City), and then enjoyed our first meal together in Spain.
Day 3
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Scott Neufeld and Brandon Winters
We started at the Hotel Alboran in Algeciras in Spain at 6:45am for breakfast. At 7:30am we boarded the bus, and head to the harbor to past through the strait of Gibraltar heading for Tangier Morocco. We arrived in Tangier at 10:30am Morocco time. We then boarded a bus and started our 5 hour drive to Meknes Morocco. We arrived at our hotel (Transatlantic) at 3:30 pm Morocco time for a delightful lunch. After lunch we then departed for the National School of Agriculture, the first University to be developed in Morocco. We visited with Dr. Mohammed Boulif who received his Masters under Dr. John Caddel from OSU then received his Doctorate from the University of Minnesota. As we arrived Dr. Mohammed and staff greeted us with the customary green mint tea with almond hordevores. Dr. Mohammed the shared with us 3 videos presentations about the history of the school, and the agricultural diversification among the region of Morocco. He also elaborated about how Morocco is deficient in cereal crops to feed the expanding population of Morocco. Dr. Mohammed spoke highly of how the US Wheat Associates that have an office in Casablanca, Morocco and how they are working together to help in supplying of cereal crops in Morocco. We also saw a video of one of Dr. Mohammed’s former students called the history of an enterprise. His operation consisted of 280 hectares of irrigated apple and pear fruit trees, 120 hectares of dry land almond and pistachio orchards and 300 hectares of field crops consisting mostly of certified cereal seeds. This operation has 7000 metric tons of cold storage capacity, a dehydration plant, and a fresh fruit packing plant. This farming operation provides 300 permanent jobs and 500 seasonal jobs for local Moroccans. Dr. Mohammed spoke about the water conservation efforts that Morocco has put in place to help farmers and the people in surrounding areas with better water efficiency and usage from flooding rain fall. Their dames have constructed up streams to aide in holding flood waters and that their water reservoirs are currently about 90% full. Agriculture supplies 20% of the GDP in Morocco and agriculture supports a moderate percentage of Moroccans income. We finished our day with a wonderful Moroccan dinner back at our hotel and then everyone went to their rooms for a much needed nights rest so that we could start our journey all over again the next day.
Day 4
Friday, February 19, 2010
John Leonard and John Cothren
First start out was to leave hotel for Atlas Mountains. We stopped along and picked up Dr. Mileak to take with us. On the way to the Atlas Mts. we saw olives, almonds, and quince orchards. We saw several places where they stored onions between rocks and straw with plastic on top. Once in the Atlas Mt we arrived at the Ranch Adarouch. It is the largest farm/ranch in all of Morocco. On the ranch they raise Santa Gertrudis cattle. The ranch was started in 1969 with cattle imported from the King Ranch. Today it consists of 5500 on 11,000 hectors. They have 2800 heifers and they run bulls on them from January to June. The have a 70-75% gestation rate in a good year and seemed to be proud of that. The bulls they don’t keep for breeding are left bulls and used for meat. They don’t cut the bulls because the Moroccan people don’t want a castrated animal. The government has supported the ranch since 1970 and helps the ranch with support of accountability and traceability for food safety. Adarouch means wolf print in Arabic. They reason they use the Santa Gertrudis cattle are that the breed has the right kind of characteristics to thrive in the area that can have very hot and dry conditions. We also visited the feedlot of the ranch. They can feed up to 2000 head and leave them on feed for 12 months. While on feed they average a gain of 2.5 lbs a day. At sales time the cattle are approx 1200 lbs and are sold to the meat processor in Meknes. The ranch also has its own feed mill to grind its own feed rations. They do us corn in their rations. There corn comes from USA. They have their own vets and employee several people in the area. Some employees serve as shepherds and spend there entire time out with the cattle to protect them from the wolf or jackal. The last addition to the ranch in cattle came in 1994 with the import of 30 bulls. They have successfully crossed the Santa Gertrudis with their indigenous cattle. They have tried artificial insemination but don’t have the same success rate as they do with live breeding. Embryo transfer is too expensive.
After the ranch visit we met our guide Thami, also known as Habib, which is Arabic for friend. He began his introduction into town by an initial visit to the royal palace. Afterwards we were treated to an amazing traditional Moroccan lunch before heading out into the three quarters of Fez. Habib took us through winding streets and narrow corridors where no cars were accessible. In some areas even donkeys were not allowed! Even though a good portion of the city shops were closed because it was Friday (when their weekend begins) the 900 streets were still very alive with people and activity. Habib explained to us the three quarters of the old Medina of Fez el Bali: the original walled area over 1000 years old which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Jewish quarter, and the French quarter which is also the newest. We first went to a brass plate shop where intricate designs were imprinted from memory. Then we went to a tannery and leather shop where we could see how they used a mixture of pigeon manure, lye, and other things to soften and tan the hides. In route to a carpet shop we looked in on the University of Karaouine founded in 859 AD which is also a religious learning center and mosque. Finally we toured a weaving shop where beautiful scarves were for sale. Our class was in awe of the incredible sights and sounds of the day. We left Fez back to Meknes for dinner and hotel for the night.
Day 5
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Tim Taylor and Dana Bessinger
We started out with no water in the town of Meknes or our hotel so many of us did not get to shower!!
Breakfast at the Transatlantic was croissants, boiled eggs, olives, amazingly fresh squeezed orange juice, crepes with jelly, a round roll filled with jelly and strong coffee.
We left the hotel on bright sunny morning, headed to the Roman Ruins – Volubilis at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. We drove through beautiful rolling, green fields, saw olive groves with cereals (grains – wheat and barley) growing underneath, small villages, shepherds with their animals in the fields, and prickly pear fences.
The Ruins at Volubilis were built by the Romans as a central agricultural center, military center, and social center. This area was the bread basket where all the food was grown for the Romans at that time. We had a guided tour by a local native. He told us the ruins were built in 25 A.D. and abandoned in 225 A.D.
On the bus to lunch in Larache we had a class synthesis. All members gave thoughts about what was seen or learned in Morocco. Our lunch was in an authentic Moroccan restaurant located in downtown Larache. The lunch consisted of a fresh vegetable salad of cucumbers, bell peppers, carrots, boiled egg, tuna, beets, lettuce, slaw, corn, and potatoes; saffron rice with shrimp, squid, and chicken; fillet of beef with hash browns covered in mushroom sauce; our choice of caramel flan or fresh fruit; and ending with green mint tea and a cookie. At our lunch spot Clinton taped a stand-up. So look for it to air.
Along the road to Tanger we passed donkeys carrying loads, dromedaries (one-hump camel), donkeys pulling plow, and sugar cane being cut and hauled. Then we cleared customs and boarded the fast ferry back to Spain. After a short bus ride back to the hotel we ate a very late supper.
Day 6
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Brent Thompson and Annette Riherd
The word of the day is RAIN!! We awoke this morning in Algecrias to yet another morning of precipitation even though this is considered to be a rather dry time of the year. After a great breakfast this morning we made our way through the rain and fog to Jerez. En route we heard the wonderful news of our future alumna of OALP and daughter of current class member Ryan Luter of the birth of Reagan Clarie Luter, arriving at 10:30 pm on February 20, 2010 weighing 6 lbs, 13 ounces and 21 inches long.
In Jerez we stopped at Jerez de la Frontera, the capital of world famous Sherry wine production. We were embarking on our way to hear a 400 year old story of wine production. At the vineyard we were greeted by Felipe Gomez Devault who has been with Jerez de la Frontera for the past five years and also owns his own vineyard. Mr. Devault graciously guided us through out the operating facility of the wine plant. During the company’s existence they have acquired many different producers and expanded their operation. They produce many different varieties of wine, vinegar and brandy. They use Palemino grapes and mix three classes of wine to develop a specific Ph to produce anything from a dinner wine to a dessert wine. Therefore they do not have good or bad harvest and they do not put the date on the label.
They use many different methods to develop the varieties of wine they produce including the use of American oak and French oak barrels. The minimum time frame for their wine production is 3 years. Throughout the three years they mix their wines to create different types of wine. They also do extensive studies to try and reduce the effects of their wine on the human bodies (i.e. hangovers). By reducing the histamines in their wine they have been able to produce a wine that has fewer days after effects from consumption.
Along with their wine production they also raise champion purebred Spanish horses. These horses are very eloquent animals that participate in parades and carriage shows.
After our tour of their operations, Mr. Devault treated our class to a tasting of 4 different wines Jerez de la Frontera produces along with a bottle of 30 year old brandy. After selecting our favorite wine, Mr. Devault opened their retail store and sold us bottles of wine costing approximately 8€ (Euros) or about $11.43.
After leaving Jerez we boarded our bus embarking on an 80 km journey to the deeply historic city of Seville where we were given a tour of the city by a local guide.
We ended the day by checking into our hotel and then having free time to explore the city.
Day 7
Monday, February 22, 2010
Scott Sproul and Daniel Skipper
After a nice night at the Don Paco Hotel in Seville, we left at 9:00 and headed to a citrus cooperative, Canla, to see how citrus products are processed and shipped out for consumption. Our tour guide, Visenta Rista, gave us a brief overview of the company. It started in 1966 and currently has 355 farmer members. An additional 1000 members participate in a credit program through the cooperative. They distribute to 40 municipalities, produce 60-70 kilos from all different varieties per year, and also produce potatoes and peppers for pimentos. They are recognized as an organic producer. They have 70 employees and hire an additional 500 employees during harvest. There is a technical department to help the farmers with their subsidy paperwork. Most of their production is consumed domestically but about 12 percent is exported out of Spain. They have a board of directors that is elected every 4 years. There is also a fueling station and hardware store that is available to members.
There are 3 production lines in the processing facility: fresh oranges, juice, and by-product lines. The oranges are unloaded and go through a bath. Workers pull out bad oranges, leaves, and rocks. The good oranges then go through a brush wash. Some oranges are packaged and shipped whole to other processing facilities. Bitter oranges go through the juicing process. They are cut in half, squeezed in a juicer. The peels are collected to feed cows “to make orange milk.” The juice processing facilities are set up like milk processing facilities. The orange juice is pasteurized and put into 250 kg bags and placed in a sealed barrel. They are in the process of building a juice storage building that will have 16 large storage tanks. In the by-product line, the peel is the most important part of the orange. Sweet oranges are cleaned and heated at 60 degrees Celsius. The oranges are then peeled, the juice is sent to the juice processing plant, and the peel is cut into 25 mm by 25 mm pieces. They are then cooked to 90-95 degrees Celsius and cut again in to 1.5 mm by 25 mm shreds. The shreds are then canned and shipped out for marmalade production. Canla also makes pre-marmalade that only needs sugar and pectin to have the final product.
At the end of our tour the president of the cooperative spoke to the group. He mentioned that the 3 major concerns that their cooperative has are the weather, government regulation, and global competitors, specifically Morocco. He also noted that they have no problem finding workers since Spain currently has a 20 percent unemployment rate but salaries and social security costs are so high that it eats away a lot of the profits.