OCEN 671 Ocean Wave Mechanics
OCEN 671
Ocean Wave Mechanics
Fall 2014
Lectures: MWF 9:10-10:00 am Room: CE 221
Lecturer: Dr. Jun Zhang
CE/TTI Room 808E Telephone: 845-2168 E-mail:
Office Hours: 4:00 –5:00 pm MW and recitations if necessary.
Textbook: Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, Dean and Dalrymple, 1984, Prentice Hall (also World Scientific).
References:
1. The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, C.C. Mei, 1983, Wiley-Interscience.
2. The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, O.M. Phillips, 1977, Second Edition, Cambridge University Press.
3. Ocean Waves-The Stochastic Approach, M.K. Ochi, 1998, Cambridge University Press.
4. Waves in the Ocean, LeBlond and Mysak, 1978, Elsevier.
5. Water Waves, J.J. Stoker, 1957, Interscience.
6. Shore Protection Manual, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, CERC, Vols. 1-2, 1984.
7. Mechanics of Fluids, Shames, 2nd Edition, 1982.
8. Marine Hydrodynamics, J.N. Newman, 1977, The MIT Press.
9. Electronic Class Notes (E-notes), J. Zhang, 2002. Website: http://ceprofs.tamu.edu/jzhang/
Tentative Course Outline
Week Mtg. Topics Text Assignment
Sept. 1-5 1 Introduction Chapter 1
2 Review of Hydrodynamics: Control and Material Chapter 2
Volume, Eulerian and Lagrangian view
3 Navier-Stokes Equation
Sept. 8-12 4 Potential Function
5 Stream Function, Bernoulli's Theorem
6 Wave Theory: Formulation Chapter 3
Sept. 15-19 7 Linearization of the Free Surface Boundary Condition
8 Solution of the Linear Boundary Value Problem:
Standing and Progressive Waves
9 Waves with Uniform Current
Sept. 22-26 10 Kinematics and Pressure Field of Progressive Wave Chapter 4
11 Kinematics and Pressure Field of Standing Wave*
12 Wave Energy and Energy Propagation
Sept. 29-Oct.3 13 Wave Refraction, Snell's Law
14 Wave Breaking in Shallow Water
15 Wave Diffraction, Mild-Slope Equation*
Oct. 6-10 16 Long Wave Theory: Linear Equation Chapter 5
17 The Energy and Energy Flux
18 One-Dimensional Tides, Reflection and Transmission
Oct. 13-17 19 Seiching, Long Waves with Bottom Friction Chapter 5
20 Long Waves in Basins or Bays*
21 Long Waves Forced by a Moving Pressure Disturbance
OCEN 671 Ocean Wave Mechanics Page 2
Oct. 20-24 22 Wavemaker Theory: Piston-Type Wavemaker* Chapter 6
23 Flap-Type Wavemaker*
24 Exam
Oct. 27-31 25 Wave Simulation in Wave Tank Chapter 7
26 Wave Statistics
27 Unidirectional Wave Spectrum
Nov. 3-7 28 Time-Series Simulation
29 PM and JONSWAP Spectra
30 Directional Sea Measurements
Nov. 10-14 31 Directional Spectrum
32 Nonlinear Waves: Perturbation Approach of Stokes Chapter 11
33 First and Second Order Stokes Waves E-notes
Nov. 17-21 34 Properties of Nonlinear Waves Chapter 10
35 Mass Transport
36 Momentum Flux
Nov. 24-28 37 Radiation Stress
38 Set-down, Setup
39 Thanksgiving
Dec. 1-5 40 Finite Amplitude Wave Theory
41 Stokes Transformation and Stream Function Wave Theory*
42 Finite Amplitude Waves in Shallow Water
Dec. 8-10 43 Airy's Theory and Boussinesq Theory* E-notes
44 Review
Dec. 15 Final Exam (8:00 - 10:00 am)
*These topics may or may not be offered, depending on the class progress.
Homework: Homework assignments must be handed in by the due date at the beginning of the class. Late HW will be penalized unless you have strong reasons. A record will be kept of all HW turned in. HW performance will be properly taken into account in assigning the final course grade.
Exams: One mid-term exam and a final exam will be given. The grading of the exams will be based on both the approach and the final answer.
Course Grade: The final grade in the course is based on our best assessment of your understanding of the material and participation during the semester. The mid-term exam carries roughly a weight of 30%, the final exam 40% and homework 30%. However, other factors, such as interaction with the teacher, participation in lecture and recitation, etc. can make a significant difference in the final grade. The process of assigning the final grade also involves a careful review of the final exam to look "behind the numbers" to understand better the kinds of mistakes that were made. We know that the final grade is important to you and we take the process seriously.
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