# Number of Squares from a Fat Quarter

Number of Squares from a Fat Quarter

1 Fat quarter (18" x 22") = / 99 ..... 2" squares
56 ..... 2 1/2" squares
42 ..... 3" squares
30 ..... 3 1/2" squares
20 ..... 4" squares
16 ..... 4 1/2" squares
12 ..... 5" squares
12 ..... 5 1/2" squares
9 ..... 6" squares
6 ..... 6 1/2" squares

Yardage Chart

The numbers are based on 44" wide fabric. This should help you estimate the

amount of fabric you will need for whatever number or size blocks you choose to make.

The approximate number of patches you will get from this amount of fabric
Patch Size / 1 yd. / 1/2 Yd. / 1/4 Yd.
2" / 357 / 178 / 89
2-1/2" / 208 / 104 / 52
3" / 154 / 77 / 38
3-1/2" / 108 / 54 / 27
4" / 80 / 40 / 20
4-1/2" / 63 / 31 / 15
5" / 56 / 28 / 14
5-1/2" / 42 / 21 / 10
6" & 6-1/2" / 30 / 15 / 7
7" / 25 / 12 / 6
7-1/2" & 8" / 20 / 10 / 5
8-1/2" / 16 / 8 / 4
9" to 10-1/2" / 11 / 5 / 0
11" / 8 / 4 / 0
11-1/2" to 12-1/2" / 5 / 2 / 0
The approximate number of strips you will get from this amount of fabric
Strip Size / 1 Yd. / 1/2 Yd.
1-1/2" / 23 / 11
2" / 17 / 8
2-1/2" / 13 / 7
3" / 11 / 5
3-1/2" / 10 / 5
4" / 8 / 4
4-1/2" / 7 / 3
5" / 7 / 3
5-1/2" / 6 / 3
6" / 5 / 2
7" / 5 / 2
8" / 4 / 2

## Putting it "On-Point"!!

Here is the math formula for finding out the sizes of triangles you will need for a quilt that is
set "block to block" WITHOUT sashings:

Corner Triangles

Take the finished block size and divide by 1.414
Note: Round up to the nearest dimension on the ruler.
Add 7/8" to that number

Cut two squares the size determined above.

Cut each square in half diagonally for the four corner triangles.

Example #1:
Finished block size = 12"
12 / 1.414 = 8.486 (Round to 8.5 = 8-1/2")
8-1/2" + 7/8" = 9-3/8" squares to cut for Corner Triangles

Example#2:

Finished block size = 6"
6 / 1.414 = 4.243 (Round to 4.25 = 4-1/4")
4-1/4" + 7/8" = 5-1/8" squares to cut for Corner Triangles

Side Triangles

Take the finished block size and multiply by 1.414
Note: Round up to the nearest dimension on the ruler.
Add 1-1/4" to that number for the correct size to cut squares for side triangles.

Cut this square in half diagonally twice with an X to produce four Side Triangles.
Cut one square for every four side trinagles needed for the quilt setting.

Example#3:
Finished block size = 12"
12 x 1.414 = 16.96 (Round to 17 = 17")
17" + 1-1/4" = 18-1/4" squares to cut for Side Triangles

Example#4:
Finished block size = 6"
6 x 1.414 = 8.48 (Round to 8.5 = 8-1/2")
8-1/2" + 1-1/4" = 9-3/4" squares to cut for Side Triangles

Common Sizes for Setting Triangles
Finished Block Size / Side Triangles / Corner Triangles
3" / 5-1/2" / 3"
3-1/2" / 6-1/4" / 3-5/8"
4" / 7" / 3-3/4"
4-1/2" / 7- 5/8" / 4-1/8"
5" / 8-3/8" / 4-1/2"
5-1/2" / 9-1/8" / 4-1/8"
6" / 9-3/4" / 5-1/8"
6-1/2" / 10-1/2" / 5-1/2"
7" / 11-1/4" / 5-5/8"
7-1/2" / 12" / 6-1/4"
8" / 12-5/8" / 6-5/8"
8-1/2" / 13-3/8" / 6-7/8"
9" / 14" / 7-1/4"
9-1/2" / 14-3/4" / 7-5/8"
10" / 15-1/2" / 8"
10-1/2" / 16-1/8" / 8-3/8"
11" / 16-7/8" / 8-3/4"
11-1/2" / 17-1/2" / 9-1/8"
12" / 18-1/4" / 9-3/8"
12-1/2" / 19" / 9-3/4"
13" / 19-3/4" / 10-1/8"
13-1/2" / 20-3/8" / 10-1/2"
14" / 21-1/8" / 10-7/8"
14-1/2" / 21-3/4" / 11-1/8"
15" / 22-1/2" / 11-3/8"
15-1/2" / 23-1/4" / 11-7/8"
16" / 23-7/8" / 12-1/4"

*Note* I like to round my numbers up a bit when cutting the squares for side triangles. For instance, if your closest fraction is 1/8", I personally would round it up to the 1/4". If the closest fraction is 3/8", then I would round it up to the 1/2". The blocks will float inside the top a bit when pieced with bigger triangles, but I trim it down after the top is together.
Lay out the triangles and corners with your blocks. Begin sewing the quilt into rows starting at one corner. Your first row will have one corner block, two large setting "wing" triangles, and the corner triangle. Your second row will have three blocks, two wing triangles...etc. Each row will get larger as you get to the center of the quilt. I like two assemble the quilt rows together as I go until there are two halves of the top.....and then sew the two halves together in one long seam.

After the top is together, use your ruler and rotory cutter to trim the edge of the quilt 1/4" away from the corners of the blocks at the quilt top edge. This gets rid of all the dog ears from sewing the rows together too.

What if my quilt has SASHINGS?! What sizes do I cut?

The side and corner triangles need to be cut using the same calculations above, only we now add the sashing measurement to the block measurement as one unit. The sashing is considered to be part of the block when calculating the side and corner triangles. Say you have an 8" finished block size, but you are setting the quilt with 2" finished sashing. You would figure that you need setting triangles for a 10" finished block size (8" block + 2" sashing) to set your quilt.

Fabric Width Conversion Chart

Basic Math Chart

I receive lots of emails from quilters who ask me to calculate yardage for all sorts of quilt patterns. Unfortunately, time restraints keep me from doing that for individual patterns, but the good news is that calculating yardage isn't difficult. This step-by-step document will walk you through yardage basics.

#### Choose a Quilt Design

You'll need to make several decisions before you can calculate yardage:

How large must the quilt be to drape the bed or to use as you've planned?

·  If you need help with quilt size, refer to my standard mattress dimensions document. Decide how much of the quilt top will be made up of quilt blocks, borders and/or sashing. Make a rough sketch on paper or use computer software to draw the quilt.

#### Choose a Block Size

What quilt block size will you use? How many blocks will it take across and down to fill the space required for the quilt? For instance, for a quilt that measures about 60" x 80", six 10" blocks across and eight 10" blocks up and down will fill the space -- or 6 times 8 equals 48 blocks.

Be sure to allow for borders if you plan to use them, and decide if borders will be cut along the fabric's straight grain or crosswise grain.

Will blocks be straight set or placed on-point? Multiply the block's finished size by 1.41 to determine the width an on-point block will occupy in the quilt.

Will you use plain setting triangles for on-point quilts? You can piece partial-blocks to use as setting components, otherwise you'll need two types of triangles that are cut differently. (See Setting Triangle Basics.

#### Decimal to Fraction Conversions

A conversion chart is handy for yardage calculations.

·  .0625 = 1/16

·  .125 = 1/8

·  .1875 = 3/16

·  .25 = 1/4

·  .3125 = 5/16

·  .333 = 1/3 yard

·  .375 = 3/8

·  .4375 = 7/16

·  .5 = 1/2

·  .5625 = 9/16

·  .625 = 5/8

·  .666 = 2/3

·  .6875 = 11/16

·  .75 = 3/4

·  .8125 = 13/16

·  .875 = 7/8

·  .9375 = 15/16

### Sample 1: Analyze a Quilt Block for YardageRequirements

Sample yardage calculations for Birds in the Air Quilt Block

© Janet Wickell

#### Sample Yardage Calculations

Let's pretend we want to make 20 identical Birds in the Air quilt blocks like the one shown in the upper right corner of the illustration. The blocks will finish at 9" square.

Look at the block's grid. It's a nine-patch design, three major grids across and three down -- nine units in all, even though the lower right block half is made from just one triangle. (Read How to Analyze Patchwork for details about block structure.)

1. Divide the finished size of the block, 9", by the number of rows across or down, 3. The answer, 3", is the finished size of each of the nine grids.
2. All nine grids in this block contain half-square triangles, and we must add 7/8" to the finished size of a half-square triangle to calculate its cut size. (Read How to Cut Patchwork Shapes for details about patchwork seam allowances.)
3. Each block has three dark blue 3-7/8" half-square triangles: 20 blocks x 3 per block = 60 triangles. We can cut two triangles by dividing a 3-7/8" square once diagonally as shown.
4. 60 triangles divided by 2 per square = 30 squares required.
5. Most quilting fabric has a usable width of about 40" (often a bit more). Divide 40" by 3-7/8". The answer, 10.32, is the number of 3-7/8" cuts you can make across the strip. Slide that back to a whole number, or 10 cuts. (See How to Cut Fabric Strips)
6. Now divide 30 (required squares) by 10 (cuts per strip) = 3 strips required to cut the squares (assuming no waste).
7. We're almost finished. Multiply 3 strips x 3-7/8" (width of each) = 11-5/8" (total length of fabric required to cut 3 strips).
8. A yard of fabric is 36" long, so divide the length of fabric required, 11-5/8", by 36". The answer is .32 yard (refer to the decimal conversions on page 1). Bump up the yardage to compensate for errors or shrinkage during the pre-wash. I would buy 1/2 yard.

### Figure Yardage for AnotherFabric

Sample yardage calculations for Birds in the Air Quilt Block

© Janet Wickell

Now let's figure the yardage requirement for the large green triangles. We'll go through the steps a bit more quickly.

Each triangle is three grids high and three grids wide, or 3" x 3" = 9" finished. Add 7/8" to the finished size for seam allowances, for a cut size of 9-7/8".

1. 20 blocks x 1 triangle per block = 20 triangles
2. 20 triangles divided by 2 (the number that can be cut from a 9-7/8" square) = 10 squares required
3. 40" width of fabric divided by 9-7/8" = 4.05, or 4 squares per strip
4. 10 squares required divided by 4 per strip = 2.5, or 2 strips plus about a half strip, each 9-7/8" wide.
5. 9-7/8" x 3 cuts (even though one won't be through all of the width) = about 30".
6. 30" divided by 36" (one yard) = .83 yard, bump up to 1 yard to allow for shrinkage and provide a bit of excess for squaring up the crosswise grain.

Follow the same procedure for each part of the block, adding together yardages for like-fabrics.

### Calculate Yardage forBorders

#### Quilt Border Yardage

Borders help you easily adjust the size of your quilt top. Vary the number of borders you sew to the quilt or adjust their widths to suit you. Once you've determined widths and styles it's easy to calculate border yardage.

keep in mind that mitered borders require longer strips than butted borders.

Choose a Border Grain

Decide if you want borders cut on the fabric's straight grain or on its crosswise grain. Straight grain strips are less stretchy and can help you square up the sides of a quilt top, which are often a bit skewed after sewing blocks together.

Crosswise grain borders must be pieced if they are longer than the fabric's selvage-to-selvage width, usually 40"-42" of usable fabric. Ask yourself:

1. How many strips must you cut across the grain to assemble the border lengths required?
2. How wide will each strip be?

Multiply the strip width by the number of strips to find the total running inches. Divide that number by 36 to determine yardage.

Lengthwise grain borders can be pieced if yardage isn't long enough to cut them as single panels, but single panels are neater looking.

If you plan to repeat a fabric used in the quilt, buy yardage that's longer than the anticipated length of the longest border. Determine how much width you'll need to cut borders from the fabric, and then calculate remaining yardage requirements using the shorter width of fabric that remains after removing the borders. In other words, replace the standard 40" width with your actual usable width when making calculations.

#### Sashing Yardage

Calculate sashing yardage as you would for any other unit in the quilt. Make a rough sketch of the quilt layout to help you visualize how many strips are required.

### Calculating Yardage for Binding andBacking

#### Quilt Binding Strips

It's simple to make a continuous length of crosswise grain binding from any fabric. Crosswise grain is rarely perfectly straight, so the strips give you some of the benefits of bias binding without the hassle of handling extremely stretchy cuts.

·  Most important is the protection from fraying along the binding. When grain runs perfectly straight along a strip, and a thread within it becomes weak or damaged, the thread could pull out along the entire length of binding. That rarely occurs with crosswise grain because it isn't absolutely straight -- a weak thread would run at more of an angle, from side to side.