III. the Gulf Ofpatras and the Gulf of Corinth

III. The Gulf ofPatras and the Gulf of Corinth

(PatraikosKölpos and KorinthiakosKolpos)

Approaching the Gulf of Patras from the west, the
coast is low-lying although backed by high land.
Much of this coast is shallow salt marsh and shoal
water extends some distance offshore, particularly
on the north side of the gulf. Approaching the
narrow western entrance to the Gulf of Corinth, the
coast rises abruptly to high mountains. The sides of
the Gulf of Corinthare flanked by two high
mountain ranges scarred by winter torrents and split
by deep gorges. On the south coast Mt Killini
(Zyria) rises to 2,377m (7,800ft) and on the north
coast Mt Parnassos reaches 2,454m (8051ft). Well
into late spring these mountains are capped with
snow.

The Gulf of Corinth is 60 mileslong from the Straits of Rion and Andirrion (once known as the 'little Dardanelles') to the CorinthCanal. Surrounded by high mountains, the gulf is much like a large lake and indeed the scenery resembles that of an Alpine lake. The narrow alluvial plain on the south coast is extensively cultivated with vineyards and citrus and fringed by attractive beaches. On the north coast the mountains are for a large part bare of vegetation although in places, particularly Nâvpaktos and Itea, there are patches of green contrasting with the barren mountains behind.

The history of the gulfs has largely revolved around the fortunes of Corinth. Using the CorinthCanal saves a distance of approximately 150 milesbetween the Ionian Sea and Athens. In antiquity, vessels were transported across the isthmus on rollers on a road called the diolkosand Corinthcontrolled this passage between the Ionian and the Aegean. From the Archaic period right up to the end of Roman rule the city flourished and grew fat on its income from the diolkos. In 522 and 551 AD earthquakes destroyed the city and it never regained its former prosperity.

The city and control of the gulf passed through successive invaders: the Normans sacked it in 1147; Villhardouin captured it in 1212; the Turks took it in 1458; the Knights of Malta in 1612; the Venetians in 1687; and, in 1715, the Turks acquired it yet again until it finally became a part of Greece at the beginning of the War of Independence. Today Corinth has little to exercise the perceptions, but its

former feats and glories have passed into our language and culture.

At the entrance to the Gulf of Patras two maritime incidents took place - one of historical note and the other just a footnote to history.

Proceeding down the channel between OxiaIsland and AkScrofa the coast becomes low-lying for some 25 miles before the town of Mesolöngionappears hovering over the salt marsh. In and around the channel off Oxia the Battle of Lepanto took place. The Turks prepared their fleet in Nâvpaktos, then known as Lepanto, and engaged the combined Christian fleet under Don John of Austria in this desolate spot. The Christian fleet with galleys from Venice, Genoa, the Papal States, Spain, Sicily and Naples defeated the Turks, sinking and capturing some 250 galleys and freeing 15,000 galley slaves. This was the last major sea battle fought with galleys rowed by slaves and effectively demolished Turkish control of the sea. It is recorded that Cervantes, the author of Don Quixote, lost the use of his left hand here. The late Peter Throckmorton attempted to locate some of the galleys lost in this action but uncovered nothing from the thick silt that covers the bottom.

It was also here under the lee of Scrofa that a small ship Byron was on put in to evade a Turkish brig-of-war on New Year's Eve in 1823. En route to Mesolöngion from Cephalonia, his Ionian skipper elected to anchor until the Turks passed. Apparently feeling unsafe they later went further north to Astakös, then called Dragomestre. Eventually three ships from Mesolöngion found Byron's ship and escorted it safely into the marshy fortress. Although Byron liked the sea and ships he knew very little about them and his companions were even more ignorant of matters nautical. David Howarthrecords this amusing episode on the trip to Mesolöngion in his The Greek Adventure: 'The passengers in this boat were a land-lubberly lot, except perhaps Tita the gondolier, and the crew seems not to have been much better. Fletcher the valet had caught a cold and had to lie down on the only mattress on board, Dr Bruno was prone to wring his hands and weep at any threat of disaster, and Loukas could not swim. Byron himself liked boats, but had never learned much about them. And as they returned through the Oxia channel, the boat missed stays and ran aground in a squall. Two thirds

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of the crew climbed out on the bowsprit and jumped ashore, Byron told Loukas he would save him, and Dr Bruno stripped to his flannel waistcoat and running about like a rat (it was Byron's description) shouted 'Save him indeed! By God, save me rather - I'll be the first if I can.' Thereupon, after striking twice, the boat blew off again. The crew was removed from the rocks by one of the escort ships, and that evening, without any more alarms, Byron reached the entrance of Missalonghi.'

Byron accomplished little in Mesolöngion. The guerrilla chiefs assembled around him for the money he had brought. The collection of Philhellenes gathered in Mesolöngion for the most part grumbled and argued amongst themselves and with the Greeks. Byron was appointed a 'commander' but could do little to organise the ill-assorted groups around him. It was more his death of fever on 19 April 1824 that inspired the world and focussed

Data

PORTS OF ENTRY

PatrasItea

PROHIBITED AREAS

A small harbour on the E side of Örmos Andikiron and the area immediately surrounding it.

MAJOR LIGHTS

ÂkOxiâ FI(2)15s17M

NisisKavikalidha(CapeKillini) LFI.WR.10s12/9M

ÂkPâppas LFI(2)20s10M

Âk Ây Söstis FI.WR.5s17/14M

Rion FI.6s6M

Andirrion FI(2).10s10M

ÂkMörnos FI(3)15s7M

Âk Dhrepanon FI.10s22M

NisisTrizönia FI.4s4M

ÂkPsaromita FI(2)15s21M

Âk Andromâkhi FI(3)15s10M

NisisApsifia (Galaxidhi) FI.7s5M

Âk Mâkri-Nikölaos FI.4-5s5M

ÂkbLikoporiâ FI(2)16s10M

Âk Kefalı FI.3s4M

Ak Melangâvi FI.10Sİ7M

Routes

Given the confines of the two gulfs, yachts will pretty much be heading east or west most of the time.

When heading E into the Gulf of Patras the prevailing wind in the summer is the NW breeze which is funnelled into a W wind and blows right through the Gulf of Patras and into the Gulf of Corinth from a westerly direction. The funnelling effect can substantially increase the strength of the wind, especially where it is squeezed by the land at the Strait of Rion and Andirrion and for some distance into the narrow W part of the Gulf of Corinth. For yachts headed E this is no real problem as once into the gulfs the seas are relatively slight and you are on a downwind run to Corinth.

When heading W from Corinth you will pretty much be plugging into the wind most of the time. As the prevailing summer wind tends to gradually extend into the gulfs from the Ionian, if a yacht leaves early in the morning it will generally be able to motor some of the way in the morning calm. If you are beating into the wind when headed W then it pays to stay on the N side of the gulfs where you will often pick up a bit of a lift with the wind getting a bit of northerly in it. You will also have less sea under the N side of the gulfs.

When heading out of the Gulf of Patras into the Ionian, care is needed not to get too close to the shoal water on the N side of the gulf. Keep an eye on the depthsounder and on your position. Once up to Oxia it is better to continue out past the S end of the island for a bit before putting a tack in as the wind tends to follow the contours of the inside channel between Oxia and the coast.

At times in the summer you will have N-NE winds at the E end of the Gulf of Corinth and there can be fierce gusts off the high land on the N side. In this case stick close in to the N coast before turning down to Corinth. If you arrive off the CorinthCanal with strong westerlies it is often better to stay overnight in Corinth harbour and venture out in the morning calm to transit the canal.

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GULF OF PATRAS AND GULF OF CORINTH

attention on the Greek struggle than his presence -as he lay dying he is reported to have said: 'I do not lament for to terminate my wearisome existence I came to Greece. My wealth, my abilities, I devoted to her cause. Well, there is my life to her.'

Many yachts pass through the Gulf of Patras and the Gulf of Corinth - most are using it simply as a short cut to the Aegean, saving 150 miles on the trip around the Peloponnisos. For the yachtsman who is not in a hurry to reach the Aegean, the two gulfs, in particular the Gulf of Corinth, are good cruising areas with a lot of attractive harbours and

anchorages. In the Gulf of Corinth the south coast is relatively straight and offers few secure anchorages, but the north coast is much indented with many attractive and safe anchorages separated by short distances.

Weather patterns in the Gulf of Patras and the Gulf of Corinth

The prevailing winds in the summer are from the W. Across the low salt marsh on the N of the Gulf of Patras the wind is from the NW to WNW. In the Gulf of Corinth the high mountains funnel the wind so it comes from the W. It normally blows from midday until well into the evening and may reach Force 5-6 in July or August. The wind may also blow from the NE at Corinth and sometimes blows right down to the Gulf of Patras. Again it is funnelled into an E wind in the two gulfs. In KrissaiosKölpos (Gulf of Krissa) and OrmosAndikiron (Antikyrra) there is frequently no wind even when it is blowing strongly in the middle of the gulf.

In the spring and autumn the winds vary between W and E - depending largely on the winds in the Ionian and the Aegean. In the Gulf of Patras there are frequently violent thunderstorms which may last for some time in the spring and autumn. Waterspouts are fairly frequent here in unsettled weather and, believe me, you don't want to see a big waterspout in action.

Although gusts off the high mountains could be expected, in my experience they have been little stronger than the winds in the middle of the two gulfs. The mountains appear to funnel the wind (W or E) for the length of the gulf rather than act as obstacles off which gusts might blow. Only at the

153

Corinth end is this not the case with NE winds, where gusts blow off the high land with some violence.

Gulf of Patras

(PatraikosKölpos)

KILLINI (Kyllini, Glarenza)

BA 2404 Imray-Tetra G16

Approach

The harbour actually lies outside the Gulf of Patras20 miles SW of the entrance. Castel Tornese on a hill inland of Killini is conspicuous from some distance away. The lighthouse on NisisKavikalidhais also conspicuous. Closer in the buildings of Killini and the harbour mole will be seen against the low-lying coast.

By night Use the light on NisisKavikalidha LFl.WR.20sl2/9M (red sector 059°-092°) and the light on the buoy at the entrance Fl.G.3s. Castel Tornese above Killini is floodlit in the summer and can be seen from a considerable distance, up to 20M depending on visibility.

Dangers A reef runs out from the headland immediately NW of the harbour and it should be given a good offing as it can be difficult to see. Make the immediate approach to the harbour from the

NE.

Mooring

Berth stern or bows-to the quay on the W side of the harbour. Care is needed of works in progress (see Note below). The bottom is mud, good holding.

Shelter Good shelter from the prevailing NW-W

winds. Open to the E.

AuthoritiesPort police and customs.

Note Work is in progress building the new quay on

the W and the breakwater on the SE side of the

harbour. Care is needed when entering and

berthing.

Facilities

Water On the quay.

Fuel In the village.

Provisions Most provisions can be obtained.

Eating out Tavernas along the waterfront.

Other PO. OTE. Exchange. Bus and train to Patras.

Ferry to Zâkinthos and Cephalonia.

General

Known in Venetian times as Glarenza, the port was once an important link in the trade route around the Peloponnisos. It is difficult to think of this dusty little place, now the ferry terminal for Zâkinthos and Cephalonia, being a thriving cosmopolitan place full of the sights and sounds of foreign sailors and merchants en route to or from the Orient. The port is not exactly a 'glam' spot to visit, but it can be a useful harbour en route to and from the Ionian.

The castle on the heights to the S was built in 1220 by Geoffrey Villehardouin and later passed to the Venetians who named it Castel Tornese. It was taken by the Turks during their occupation of the Peloponnisos and finally partially destroyed by Ibrahim Pasha in 1825. It is now being restored and is worth a visit - it commands superb views over the surrounding countryside and the approaches to the Gulf of Patras.

Ak skrofa

On the northern entrance to PatraikosKölpos around Âk Skrofa extensive works have been in progress for some years. The purpose of the land reclamation here is not known but may be linked to the huge harbour works at Plâtiyiali or may be a separate project altogether. The results are unlikely to be of use to yachts.

KATO ACHAIA

A small fishing harbour lying approximately 9M ESE of Âk Pâppas. It is quite shallow and only yachts drawing less than l.5m should attempt to enter it. The approach to the harbour should be made with caution and in calm weather as there is shoal water in the vicinity. Make the approach on a SSE course keeping an eye on the depthsounder and colour of the water. The end of the mole is lit Fl.WR.3s5/3M, but the light should not be relied on.

The entrance to the harbour is very narrow so have everything ready for berthing before entering. The harbour is usually quite full of fishing boats so berth stern or bows-to where possible. Catwalks

KILLINI

@37°56'.3N21°09'.2E

154

KATO ACHAIA

@ 38°09'.6N21°32'.4E

have been built out from the rubble along the inside and if you cannot find one of these free you will have to take a long line to the shore. Good shelter.

Ashore there are a couple of tavernas which have good fresh fish.

MISSALONGHI (Mesolöngion)

Imray-Tetra chart G13

Approach

Conspicuous The white lighthouse on Nisis Ay Söstis and the group of houses at the entrance to the canal

will be seen first. The red and green buoys marking the entrance to the dredged channel are difficult to pick out from the distance and in bad visibility it can be quite a job finding them until close to. Once the buoys are located the canal is marked out by four pairs of beacons.

By night Use the light on Nisis Ay Söstis Fl.WR.5sl7/14M (red sector 293°-010°) and the lights on the outer buoys Fl.R.4.5s and Fl.G.4.5s. The channel beacons are lit (all Q.R and Q.G.3M). The lights on the buoys at the seaward end can be very difficult to locate and the lights of the beacons marking the channel are not easily seen against the lights of the town.

Note The canal is dredged to a least depth of 6m. In parts there are depths of 8m. At the entrance to the basin don't cut the corner but head for the middle of the basin to clear the shallows on the E.

Mooring

Stern or bows-to or alongside the N quay. Most

yachts elect to go alongside. The bottom is mud,

excellent holding.

Shelter Excellent shelter from all winds although the

prevailing wind pushes a chop across the large basin

into the NE corner.

AuthoritiesPort police and customs.

Note The W end of the harbour now has a quay

MISSOLONGHI

@ 38°18'.75N 21°25'.0E

155

Stilt houses at the entrance to Missalonghi

along it with a stub pier in the middle. There is talk of this becoming a marina, but at the time of publication no further works were in evidence. At present yachts can berth alongside where there is good shelter with the prevailing wind blowing you off the quay.

AnchorageYachts can anchor in the SW corner where there is good shelter.

Facilities

Water On the quay. Showers in the hotel SE of

basin.

Fuel In the town a considerable distance (30

minutes' walk) away. You may be able to arrange for

a mini-tanker to come to the quay.

Repairs Some mechanical repairs. Hardware shops.

Provisions Good shopping for all provisions. Ice

available.

Eating out Hardly a good taverna for a town of this

size. Avoid any in the town that are labelled 'Self

Service Cafeteria'. The taverna at the harbour is as