- Visual Inspection
-Inspect lift hook, front and rear wing ‘flaps’, chain tie-downs, and shock-mount standards to determine if replacement or repair is required.
-Determine if fitting seats at front (engine end of lower) need to be milled. Fitting should seat even with the top side of the wing. If the wing is lower than the center frame – these fitting seats need to be cut down until even with the wings.
- Upper Console Removal
-Remove hydraulic filler cap, filler neck and filter assy, discarding filter. These parts can be cleaned and inventoried for resale as used. They are high turnover items.
-Drain main hydraulic reservoir
-Remove valve cover/s. Inspect the valves externally to determine if they are worth salvaging as used parts for resale.
-Disconnect the 6 hoses at the valves that connect to the lower. If valves are to be salvaged they can be removed now – especially if you are gravity draining the main reservoir.
-Disconnect case drain line going to the main reservoir at the manifold on the drive side of the eccentric barrel.
-Remove 8 bolts on console shockmount standards
-Lift upper off of lower. If upper is to be saved seal the main reservoir and all other parts that may be damaged by moisture or dirt before storing.
- Initial Lower Frame Work
-Stamp serial number of machine on ‘tab’ between legs of lift hook on the horizontal.
-Remove all hose clamps from lower frame wings. Note, as you remove the mounting screws whether any are stripped or cross-threaded and mark that weld plate for thread chasing or replacement. Save all good hose clamps and fasteners for re-use.
-Remove all hoses from wings leaving the fittings tight on the center frame. The first time this is done take each hose removed and braze the tube closed at the center frame end of the hose. Then cut the tube (standpipe) off behind the nut and place the plug you now have on each center frame fitting, the manifold fittings, and the vibration drive motor fittings. This is to prevent contamination of the ports.
-If the wings are bent on the outer edges they should be straightened at this point while the drums are still installed. A butterfly tool is useful when used with an Enerpac cylinder in this process.
-Turn lower on its side and using the tool provided unbolt and remove the drums and scrapers. Turn lower and repeat process for other side. Note if any of the scraper bolt mounting holes are stripped or if the threads need chasing. If stripped, use an insert or fill with weld and drill and tap.
-Sandblast complete lower frame including top and bottom of all components.
- Final Lower Frame Work
-Remove each fitting from the center frame and inspect the seat area for the cutting ring on the frame. Each should be a complete circle and should not be cut too deeply – otherwise the fitting will not seal and there will be leaks. If the seat area needs cleanup – plug the hole with a rag, cork, or rubber plug and use a magnetic drill with a mill to just cut lightly into the seat area. Replace the fitting and hand tighten to prevent contamination.
-If the forward fitting seats need to be milled, do so at this point taking care to plug the holes to prevent contamination. Note that only the pressure ports, that is the 2 on each end of the front need to be counter-bored. The small diameter leakage port does not need to be lowered. A light coating of dishwashing liquid on the front wing prior to milling will make steam cleaning much easier. After setting each seat reinstall the fitting hand-tight.
-Using the jig provided, torch the center frame at the back of the front wing to provide clearance for the engine pan if the machine is dropped.
-If the lift hook needs replacement torch the old hook off and grind a ‘V’ at each corner of the tab so that a good deep weld can be made. A certified welder should be utilized to replace the lift hook for safety reasons. It is very important that the hook be welded on square in both planes; if it isn’t the hook will hit the pump cover in normal operation. Be sure that a square is used to get the proper alignment before tacking the hook down.
-If the wing flaps are bent they should now be straightened or replaced as well as the chain tie-downs.
-When the above work is completed, a 4” grinder equipped with flapper or ‘Z’ discs should be used to smooth all exposed edges that are rough. Keep in mind that the customer is spending a lot of money on this job and this seemingly meaningless task can spell the difference between a new looking machine when you are finished and a re-worked machine.
-The metal rework is now completed.
- Drive Side Vibrator Inspection
-Remove vibration drive motor
-Remove hex vent plug from blind bearing cap of barrel (vibrator housing). Save this plug – it must be cleaned thoroughly and gently blown dry prior to re-assy of vibrator. It’s a vent plug.
-Mount dial indicator with magnetic base to drive cap on vibrator & position stylus to read the up and down (radial clearance) movement of the drive side bearing using pry bar in drive coupling holes in end of vibrator shaft. Record this measurement.
-Reposition stylus to read end-play of vibrator shaft and record. All that is left now is to measure the blind side bearing and that will be done on the bench after the barrel is removed from the frame.
- Vibrator Removal
-It is easier at this point to crack the bearing cap bolts on both sides. Do not remove them.
-Loosen and remove barrel to frame mounting bolts.
-Mount pusher tool to frame on blind side and place Enerpac cylinder on steel plate inserted on the face of the blind side bearing cap. Preload. Place transmission jack, wooden box, or some such on the drive side to catch the barrel when it comes out of the frame. Here it is important to understand that the barrel is pulled into a taper in the center frame. Sometimes, and in particular the first time or two the technician removes the barrel it will come loose with enough force to clear the frame and hit the floor.
-Jack the cylinder up until there is a pretty strong force pushing the barrel. Hit the tool square on the face and inline with the jack with a 4#-8# sledge. A good rap is usually all that is necessary to release the compression of the taper.
- Blind Side Bearing Inspection
-Move the vibrator assy to a bench and remove both bearing caps using pusher bolts. Remove the shaft from the barrel.
-Mount the blind side cap to the dead end of the shaft and using the dial indicator, check & record the radial clearance of this bearing.
-Measurements will determine replacement. We have found that discoloration and or minor nicks do not warrant replacement if the bearing still has the clearance measurements of a new bearing.
- Barrel Re-Assembly
-Remove the hex plug on the drive side bearing cap. It is a vent plug. Save this plug as you did with the blind side plug.
-Remove shaft seal & spacer ring then push each bearing out and keep with its mating cap if bearing/s can be re-used. Take the matched pair to the parts washer and thoroughly degrease; spin and blow out the bearing with an air nozzle and clean again. Return the set to the bench and cover. Repeat with the other cap and bearing. If you are replacing the bearings be sure to keep the bearing with the cap that corresponds to the race that came from the bearing..
-Thoroughly wash and gently blow through each vent plug. Check to be sure they are clear, by blowing through with your mouth. If these plugs can’t breathe the machine will not vibrate properly!! Be sure that foam is still in the bolt.
-If bearing/s need replacement, a blind puller and gentle heating with a rose-bud will facilitate inner race removal from the shaft. Heating the new race in an old electric skillet filled with oil to about 280F will allow easy placement on the shaft. Before installing new race, check shaft for any nicks, burrs, or grooves on seal seat. If necessary use crocus or emery cloth to dress seal seat area and wipe shaft clean.
-If dirty, clean inside of barrel.
-Pack/repack each bearing using a needle preferably on an air powered grease line. A hand gun will work but takes a lot longer. Hand packing is not recommended. Use only the grease specified and supplied – Optimol. Fill the space behind each roller and continue filling until the grease rises to half the bearing diameter.
-Reinstall each bearing and be sure you are using the correct bearing for the cap you are working with. Reinstall spacer ring and shaft seal and cover the assembly with a rag. The bearing should be a light interference fit.
-Bearing housing are a press fit in the barrel. Using longer screws, position the blind side cap on the barrel and start the cap into the barrel. Use the case-drain manifold and vent plug hole to determine ‘up’. Use the normal screws to seat the cap in the housing.
-The next step is a little difficult. With barrel lying on the bench carefully slide the eccentric weight into the housing. Once the weight is well in you have to reach inside the barrel and lift and push the weight into the blind side bearing. (if there is a better way to do any of these steps we welcome the advice!)
-Stand the barrel on the blind side cap and maneuver the drive side cap over the end of the shaft. Using starter screws line the cap up with the mounting holes. Use the case-drain manifold to determine up.
-Torque all bolts. Reinstall vent plugs and bearing pusher hole plugs.
-Install new eccentric drive motor and gasket. Use plugs off of old motor to close the fittings on new motor.
- Final Drive Removal and Inspection
-Remove fittings from center frame
-Turn the lower frame on its right side, speaking from the operator’s position.
-With a magic marker mark the alignment of each drive to the frame and write the position (e.g. LF for left front) on the stationary part of the drive.
-Remove the drives from the left side and discard frame o-rings. DO NOT PLACE THE FRAME MOUNTING FACE OF THE DRIVES ON A ROUGH OR DIRTY SURFACE. Place the drives on their caps and cover the ports with plugs or duct tape.
-Grind a groove (or open up existing groove) at least 1/16 deep x 3/32 wide x 2.75 long at 5:45 clock position at the rear beginning outside the bolt circle. Do the same at 6:15 at the front drive position. This will make locating drive leaks far easier.
-Take solvent and spray the ports from the top of the frame and blow out with air nozzle. Seal the 2 outside cleaned ports with tape or plugs on the drive end and replace fittings on the center frame, but only for the pressure ports cleaned and not for the small port, which is for case drain and is common to the opposite side of the frame.
-Repeat process by turning frame over onto its right side. After cleaning ports on this side the frame case drain ports may be sealed.
- Drive Inspection & Renewal
-With the final drive still on its cap inspect the drive motor end for leaks around the metal pipes at the fittings. A thorough visual inspection at this point can save a lot of time later in locating a leak. Remember that when the job is finished what may not have been leaking may start leaking because of the new pumps.
-Replace the flexible case drain line and copper gaskets.
-Flip the drive over & remove the off center plug (magnetic drain plug – NOT a level plug) and then the planetary cover. Write down any numbers that are hand written on the inside of the cover on the stationary part of the drive. These numbers indicate the cover was hand fitted to that drive to control end play of the sun gear drive stack.
-Inspect the gears in the drives for damage and total wear. They are normally (95% of the time) O.K.
-Inspect the ring gear for wear and damage. This is the critical part as it wears the most in these drives. The teeth should not be sharp and in general the ridge at the top of the gear tooth should be approximately 1.5mm wide. The planet gears do not fully engage the length of the ring gear face, so a good second place to evaluate total wear is at the top of the ring gear tooth – there you will see the full width of the tooth when new. There must be more than 50% of the original tooth thickness or the drives must be rebuilt – they will not last the 2 year warranty period.
-Re-torque the cap screws that retain the planet carrier to the axle.
-Flush drives with solvent and drain – repeat a couple times to thoroughly clean the gear casing.
-When cleaned well turn the drive up on its mounting face. Fill the gear case with Optimol 632 gear oil (only) until the gears are just covered by the oil.
-Install new o-ring on drive cover, reinstall cover magnetic drain plug and torque the cover bolts.
-Repeat process for each of the drives.
- Lower Re-Assembly – Right Side
-The lower frame should still be on its left side. Using new frame o-rings, the tapered alignment bolts and the lifting device supplied - remount the drives. Be careful to align the drive to the correct position on the frame in relation to the ports using the mark made previously. Also remember to get the right front at the right front position etc.
-The first 2 bolts on each side of the drive ports should be torqued first (alternating) as these allow the o-rings to seal..
-Flip the frame over on to its right side.
- Lower Re-Assembly – Left Side
Wipe the machined taper of the vibrator assembly and its mating surface in the center frame with assembly grease. Position the assembly correctly over the hole and lower into place. Use mounting bolts to pull housing into taper of frame and torque. Warning – If the taper isn’t clean or the mounting bolts are not torqued properly, the vibrator will snap the bolts and the barrel will spin in the frame, a very costly repair.
-Remount drives etc as above for Right Side, step 11……
- Steam Clean and Prime Lower Frame minus Drums
-Be sure to mask machined mating surfaces where drums mount to drives!
- Mount Drums and Scrapers to Lower
-Flip the lower on its side again
-Remove masking tape and coat the mating surface of the drive & drum with assembly grease and using the tool supplied lift the drum over the drive and into position.
-Mount scrapers to frame but do not tighten. Slide the scrapers into the drum and back off about 1/8”-3/16”. Turn the drum 360 to be sure the drum doesn’t contact the scraper. When positioned properly and using the necessary flat and lock washers, install and torque the scraper bolts.
-Torque drum to drive bolts now
- Re-Hosing Lower Frame
Spread hoses out from hose kit that comes with the conversion. Looking at picture supplied get an idea of how the hoses are routed, where they are strapped (3 places), and where they are sleeved (3 additional places). The sleeving is ¾” – 1” clear plastic hose, cut to length, and slit lengthwise to slip over the hose. Notice that some of the hoses have slack at certain points and that there is a certain amount of slack left at the rear where the hose clamps are ganged together to reach the control valves once the upper is mounted. When routing clamping and sleeving these hoses it is extremely important to copy what the factory has done..
-Remove & examine all lower frame hose fittings for re-use. Concern here is to see if the ferrule seat in the body of the fitting shows any sign of wear. If not, the fitting is OK for re-use provided the fitting uses a steel ‘cutting’ ring between the body and the frame.
-Standing at rear of machine and reading from left to right across the hose clamp gang, hoses 3 & 4 are put on last. Hose lengths are measured from the back of the clamps & are as follows: