Riveted and Silver Core Beads

Riveted and Silver Core Beads

Presented by

Tink Martin Art Glass

BlackSwamp Glassworks

419-255-8465

Riveted Bead Caps

Supplies

Jeweler’s saw (or glass saw, for small diameter tubing) or tube cutter

Dapping Block and Punches

Steel Block

Torch, Charcoal Block and Heatproof Surface

Pickle

Hand Punch or drill and awl

Transfer Punches

Pre-cut sterling disks (24 or 26 gauge)

Leather Mallet or Hammer

Jeweler’s Files

Buffing wheel and polish (White Diamond and Red Rouge)

For an average bead, we use ½” disks. Use a transfer punch to mark the center of each disk. Use a hand punch or drill to make a hole in the center of each disk. The tubing should be a snug fit through the hole in the disk. Put the disk into the dapping block. Choose a punch that fits the hole in the dapping block and use a hammer to hit the punch a few times until the dome is a well-formed cap that fits nicely on your bead.

Place a cap on each end of the bead. Insert tubing through the bead and both caps. Mark and cut the tubing so that you end up with 2-3mm of the tubing sticking out of each cap. Don’t forget to allow for the length you’ll lose when you file the ends of the cut tubing! If you anneal and pickle your tubing before the riveting process, the ends will flare more easily. Use an awl or similar tool to flare each end of the tubing.

Working on your steel block, begin with a dapping punch slightly larger than the inside dimensions of the tubing and use a hammer to gently start to flare the end of the tubing with a couple of taps. Turn the bead over and flare the opposite end. Return to the original end and repeat this sequence using increasingly larger punches.

After the rivet is flared to your liking, polish the caps. Take care not to heat the bead too much in this process; it can unanneal your bead and/or cause it to crack. Use Emery paper to remove any scratches, then polish.

Silver Core Beads

Supplies

7/16” OD Stainless Steel Tubing coated with bead release

11 mm diamond core drill bit and Dremel®

Jeweler’s Saw or tube cutter

½” diameter sterling silver tubing

Torch, Charcoal Block and Heatproof Surface

Pickle

Corrugated cardboard

Dapping Punches

Leather Mallet or Hammer

Steel Block

Jeweler’s files

Buffing and Polishing Supplies (White Diamond and Red Rouge)

Make a bead on the stainless tubing that has been coated with bead release. Experiment with various widths and thicknesses, but I’ve found that beads less than 9mm wide and 6mm thick tend to break during this process. Anneal. Use the core drill in water to open up the bead until the sterling tubing just barely fits through the hole.

Cut the tubing so that 2mm extends on each side of the bead. File the ends until they are smooth. Anneal and pickle the tubing.

Make a hole in the cardboard that is slightly larger than the diameter of the tubing. Place the cardboard on top of your steel block and place the tubing into the hole.

Choose a dapping punch that is slightly bigger than the diameter of the tubing. Use the leather mallet to tap the punch into the tubing 3 or 4 times or until the silver starts to flare. Turn over and repeat. Choose a punch that is 3 or 4 sizes larger and repeat until the tubing is nicely flared.

Turn the large punch over and use the flat side against the silver to finish hammering the silver down flush with the bead, or just use your leather mallet.

Use Emery paper to remove any scratches, then polish.

I first learned of these techniques through the articles listed below. I am indebted to Bronwen and Susan, and very grateful for their generosity. It still took a lot of trial and error, and lots of practice to end up with something I liked. I finally developed methods for creating these beads that suited me. I have formulated this class for folks who, like me, have little or no metalsmithing experience.

Lapidary Journal, Oct. 2002 – Capping Beads Step by Step by Bronwen Heilman

Lapidary Journal, June 2001 – Silver Core Beads by Susan Silvy

I purchase my raw metals and some jewelry supplies from:

Rio GrandeSanta Fe Jewelers Supply

800.545.6566 800.659.3835

MetalliferousMetalliferous has a great

of goodies, at

888.944.0909pretty good prices

Dapping blocks/punches at low prices:

Brass Dapping Block - BKH38 - Price: $19.97

There are various punch sets available

I found the hand punch at Harbor Freight Tools. It comes with seven punch/dies ranging in size from 2mm to 7mm. One of my favorite tools!

ITEM 44060-1VGA

It’s $16.99, but often goes on sale for $11.99

Tubing Reference List

For Riveted Caps --

Tubing for beads made on a 3/32” mandrel: 2 or 3mm OD

Tubing for beads made on a 1/8” mandrel: 3 or 4mm OD

For Silver Core Beads –

Some folks use sterling tubing that is the same size as their mandrel. I find that the bead release makes the bead hole a little sloppy for a good fit. Your mandrel should be slightly smaller than your tubing.