Chapter 12: Handling the Guide Dog Around the Building

Your new dog needs help readjusting to living in a home environment, it has been months since they have been able to roam free in a house. They will need to explore your room and dormitory on leash and under control as you reintroduce to them the various rules for canines living indoors with humans. Because you are living with a service dog that has high expectations placed on how they need to behave in public, the rules are essential for you and your dogs to master.

Until your dog demonstrates an understanding of appropriate indoor behavior it is important that they are kept on leash, tie down or crated. This time period will vary from dog to dog. Your instructor will work with you to let you know when it is appropriate to allow your dogs freedom in your rooms while here on campus and in your homes following graduation.

When moving about the dormatory keep your dogs on leash and under control, this is an opportunity for you and your dog to practice good behavior in publicand indoor spaces. Dogs explore their environment with their mouths and noses so pay attention to where their heads are when you have them on leash.

Heeling your dog while moving through public spaces at Guiding Eyes

When you first arrived for training certain rules concerning the manner of moving about the building were explained. Now that you have dogs, the dormitory is more crowded, and observing these rules helps to assure that neither students nor dogs will be hurt by being bumped into or stepped on.

To review, here are the rules for moving about the building:

  • Stay to the right side of hallways and stairways.
  • Announce your presence entering a room or hallway.
  • Keep your dog close and out of the way of others.
  • Do not work your dogs in harness indoors or without an instructor present until Instructors communicate to you that it is time to do so.
  • Anytime you are stationary have your dog sit or lie down, a standing dog will be more likely to wander and get into mischief.
  • When seated dogs should be kept lying down and out of the way of other students. When there is sufficient space, the dog should be under the chair, otherwise, the dog should be lying in close proximity to you.
  • Dogs in class should only be allowed to play with one another if there is an instructor present.
  • Focus on your own dogs and do not make attempts to interact with your classmates’ dogs.
  • Use the “side” or pivot method when going through any closed door with the hinges on the dog side of the team.
  • Until you begin working your dogs in the building, when you arrive at a change in elevation while heeling you should ask them to sit and then reward before they step up or down to reinforce their guide work training. This includes stairs, curbs and stepping up into vehicles.

From the beginning of your relationship with your new guide dog it is essential for you to maintain a certain level of control over them. They should be walking nicely beside you with slack leashes. If they are pulling on leash it should be addressed immediately otherwise you may create a habit of sniffing, scavenging or distraction.

We will have you start giving leash cues to get back into the heel position and leash corrections if they fail to respond to the "Heel" command. Remember that a leash correction is a snap in the direction you want the dog's head to go: if the dog is pulling ahead of you, the snap should be straight back; if the dog is pulling to one side, the snap should be towards your body, etc. A leash correction consists of a snap followed by an immediate release of tension on the leash once the dog has responded. It is important to remember to praise the dog after a correction.

When you are heeling the dog, it is your responsibility to know where you are going. The dog should not be corrected for failing to stop for a step; you must know the step is coming up and be prepared to have the dog stop and sit. To do this, you can switch the leash to your right hand before you give the "Sit" command so your left hand can reach down and feel whether the dog has responded to the command or not.

If necessary you may use your cane while heeling your dog; however you should get to know the building by moving to trailing the wall as soon as possible. If you choose to use your cane in conjuction with heeling your dog, be aware of times when you might be aproaching another dog and avoid using in areas of the building where you might touch and startle another dog with the cane. This can be accomplished by communicating with classmates as you aproach seating or common areas and inquiring where they and their dogs are located.

Navigating doors with your dog

Doorways:

You must use caution when navigating doors with your dogs. Doors of all types will be utilized by the dog guide team during the course of their normal day. Doors can be set up in a variety of ways. In training and throughout the dog's working life the dog begins to recognize the shape and configuration of doors. Glass doors allow the dog to see to the outside and are useful to them in identifying exits. There are several methods in which a team can handle doors. They involve working or passing through on leash. Doors may be hinged on the right or left side. The handler should always position themselves between the door and the dog thus allowing the dog to pass through on the open or free side of the door, away from the hinges. This allows the dog to have the most room for negotiating. The handler should never attempt to pass the dog between themselves and the hinged side. This is dangerous to the dog and could result in an injury, particularly getting the tail caught. Dogs that get pinched in doors can easily develop a fear of working through doors and it will be some time before it will willingly approach any door again.

When the door handle is located on the dog’s side of the team and the hinges are located on the handler’s side, the handler can simply open the door and walk through with the dog. These doors are also called right hinged doors because the hinges are on the right side of the door.

When the door handle is located on the handler side and the hinges are located on the dog’s side;dogs should be moved to the opposite side of the handler. Opening the door without moving the dog to the other side can cause foot injuries and fear of passing through doors. These doors are also called left hinged doors because the hinges are on the left side of the door.

In either case, the handler needs to make sure the dog is clear of the swinging door at all times.

Left Hinged Doors

There are two methods for navigating (left hinged) doors where the handles are located on the handler side:

Method #1- Side

To use the side method, approach the door and praise your dog. Next pass the leash from left hand to right hand behind your back, the dog is given the cue "Side,” at the same time light collar pulses can be given to communicate to the dog that you would like for them to move behind and to the other side of your body. Next say “lets go” and open and step through the door with your dog on the right side, once clear of the door allow the dog out in front of you and give the “heel” command. The sequence is as follows. "Side", "Let's Go", "Heel". "Side" positions the dog, "Let’s Go" gets the dog moving through the door and "Heel" returns the dog to the working position. For dogs that are not fluidly initiating movement behind the handler, It can be helpful if upon arrival at the left hinged door if you step in front of the dog, open the door slightly and hold the open door in place with your left foot. This does two things it blocks the dog from forward movement on the left side and gives them an environmental cue or pathway to travel, around your back and through the open door. Your body remains between the dog and the door at all times.

Method #2- Pivoting

Pivoting is a technique similar to the recall exercise in obedience. Once the left hinged door is located and the dog is praised for finding the door, command “stay” then simply turn and face the dog as you open the door simultaniously protecting your dog by keeping your body between the dog and the moving door. Your right shoulder and back will be against the door as it swings open. The dog will pass through the door on leash, in front of you into the open and safe area on the other side of the door. Once through reposition the dog using the “heel” comand and continue with work. This pivoting or rolling method works well when the handler is carrying something in the right hand.

Both methods have value and the dogs understand each one. This is a clear example where the dog is reading the handlers body language. Simply by moving the leash to the right hand tells the dog that the "Side" method is occurring. By facing the dog and turning your right shoulder towards the door the dog will interpret a pivot. These simple methods are designed to keep both dog and handler safe. Students in class training will be shown both methods

Right hinged doors

If the door is hinged on the right you may work the dog through. It is important to be sure the door is open as wide as possible to allow both members of the team to pass through. Be sure to hold the door open long enough for the dog to completely pass through including the tail to avoid any accident or injury.

When locating doors with the dog the handler will have to be understanding of what the dog perceives as the actual door. It is unrealistic to think that the dog will target the handle or knob of each door accurately every time. Banks of doors, especially glass doors are framed out in metal. The dog will bring you up to what they perceive the door to be. With a bank of doors the dog will gravitate towards the metal framing. It is your responsibility to help the dog by searching for the actual handle or knob. Using food rewards at the handles and practicing targeting the handles can help improve your dog’s accuracy with locating the handles as they approach doors. Through repetition and reward your dog will learn to recognize specific locations at the door and become more accurate with locating the handle.

Tonight

•You can use the bed provided so that your dog has something comfortable to sleep on. You should check the bed occasionally to make sure it is not being chewed.If your dog chews the bed, you will have to take it away. You may try the bed again in a few days when the dog has adjusted to life with you in the dorm room.

•Dogs dream when they're sleeping. They may whimper, twitch their paws, or even growl in their sleep.

•Most dogs sleep fairly well through the night. However if your dog starts whining during the night, you can tell it "Quiet" in a low, firm voice. If the whining is persistent, the dog may have to park. You can take the dog outside and give it a few minutes to relieve itself. If it doesn't go, then take it back inside, put it back in the crate, and tell it "Down" and "Quiet".

•When we wake you up in the morning at 6:00 a.m., your dogs will wake up too. It is important that you get them outside quickly to give them a chance to park. You will park the dog, then feed and water it, then park it again.

•Please keep your dog in the crate until the 6 AM park time. If you wake up prior to 6 AM please be aware that noises carry easily through the dormitory, close doors gently and keep voices and other noises to a low volume.

Nylabones

You will all receive a nylabone for your dog to have and this is yours to keep. Your dog may have the bone whenever you choose. We recommend picking the bone up at night as it can be noisy when dogs chew and can become a crutch if always given when your dog is on tie down or crated.

Chairs:

There are two types of chairs in the building; stationary and moving. Stationary chairs are chairs positioned against walls. When we refer to moving chairs we refer to chairs at places like the dining table where you have to move them out from under the table in order to sit down and then move or slide them back under in order to eat.

With stationary chairs, dogs can be placed under them using the “close” command. You sit down in the chair first, tap your inner thigh saying “close” and the dog should come in between your legs, turning so they face outward and then go into a sit. After the dog is in sitting position, ask them to go into a down. Then you place your hands in front of their chest and slide them back under the chair. If the dog’s chest is out of reach reposition the dog so that it can be reached. If they are wearing a harness, check to make certain the handle does not get caught as they slide back under the chair. Be careful not to grab the groinal area to slide them back. This can be uncomfortable for the dog,

Being under the chair places them out of harm’s way, and decreases the chances of them getting stepped on by others. Booths should be handled in the same way if possible. When you go to exit a stationary chair, the dog should always exit first; using a “let’s go” with the leash cuing them out from under the chair. After they are safely out and away from the chair, then you may rise. Your weight holds the chair in position. Do not rise out of the chair if your dog is under it. A dog can easily lift a chair up on their backs and this could cause injury or frightnen the dog, making it difficult for you to ever get them back under a chair.

Dogs should not be positioned under moving chairs. For these chairs, they will be placed on the side of the chair in a down position. First position yourself behind the chair and then give the command “side”. Once the dog is positioned on your right side, move the chair out from under the table and sit down moving in from the right side of the chair. Slide the chair back under and then bring the dog around the front of your knees so the dog is once more on your left side but facing out away from the table. Put the dog into a sit and then into a down. Facing outwards allows the dog to see wait staff coming towards the table and protects their tails. If there is a wall behind you, the dog will want to turn around and face the other way. This is fine as the wall protects the dog.

Once again, when you get ready to sit on or vacate a chair, regardless of whether it is stationary or moving, always be certain you sit down first and get up last. Your weight keeps the chair from moving and potentially harming the dog. Use a “let’s go” command to get the dog out and away from either type of chair. Only then should you get up. Please remember at tables to push in your chair when leaving.

Stairs

When working a dog guide up and down stairs it can feel quite different then when working on level ground. Dog guides are conditioned in training to target nearby staircases. After locating a staircase either up or down the handler should check by probing with the left foot. A step up for upstairs, a step down for downstairs. The handler can locate the handrail in conjunction with locating the step edge. In navigating stairs you have the choice of holding the harness handle and asking the dog to work up or down the stairs with a “forward” command, or holding the leash and asking your dog to heel on the stairs. In either case, it is acceptable to hold the railing if you so desire.

When working upstairs extending your left arm in front of you can create a problem if the dog gets too far ahead and crests the top of the stairs too early. It is important for you to work the dog at a comfortable pace and to let up on the pressure in the chest strap. Holding back with pressure in the chest strap on the stairs can cause the dog to pull more firmly causing them to move out of position in front.