Colonial Heritage Travel Club

GERMANY BULLETIN #8 ROTENBURG, GERMANY

Day 11 – Wednesday - Rothenburg (ROE-ten-burg) and the Romantic Road

Hotel: Hotel Rappen Rothenburg ob der Tauber Click here for hotel info (NOTE: page opens to Reservation page. Look on RIGHT of TOP line, click on ‘ENGLISH’, then towards middle of line click on ‘BACK TO HOMEPAGE’)

The Romantic Road takes us through Bavaria’s medieval heartland, a route strewn with picturesque villages, farmhouses, onion-domed churches, Baroque palaces, and walled cities.

In the Middle Ages, when Berlin and Munich were just wide spots on the road, Rothenburg ob der Tauber was a ‘free imperial city’ beholden only to the Holy Roman Emperor. During Rothenburg’s heyday, from 1150 to 1400, it was a strategic stop on the trade routes between northern and southern Europe. Because of its privileged position, Rothenburg thrived. With a whopping population of 6,000, it was one of Germany’s largest towns. But as with many of Europe’s best time-warp towns, Rothenburg’s fortunes tumbled. With no money to fix up its antiquated, severely leaning buildings, the town was left to languish in this state. Today, it’s the country’s best preserved medical walled town, enjoying tremendous tourist popularity without losing its charm.

One of the most popular tours, which we will take, is the Night Watchman’s tour. According to Rick Steves, “this tour is flat-out the most entertaining hour of medieval wonder anywhere in Germany”. The Night Watchman jokes like a medieval Jerry Seinfeld as he lights his lamp and takes us on his rounds, telling slice-of-gritty-life tales of medieval Rothenburg. Tour begins at 20:00 (8:00pm) at Market Square.

There is also a free ‘Walk the Wall’ self-guided tour. It’s about a mile and a half around and provides great views and good orientation to the city. Click here to download a map of the city.

Rick Steves Suggestions for Eating:

Reichskuchenmeister – a forgettable big-hotel restaurant, but on a balmy evening, its pleasant tree-shaded terrace overlooks St, Jacob’s Church. It’s reliably good dishes are hard to beat (main courses – €13-23, Flammkuchen – German style pizza €7-10)

Altfrankische Weinstube am Klosterhof – a very dark pub, classically candlelit in a 600-year-old building. Mario whips up gourmet pub grub (€7-15 main courses, hot food starting at 18:00). Want to mix it up with the locals? Wednesday night (18:00-24:00) is the English Conversation Club. This group of intrepid linquists has met more than 1,000 times. Hermann the German and his sidekick Wolfgang are regulars.

Gasthof Goldener Greifen – in a historic building with a peaceful garden out back, is just off the main square. The Klingler family serves quality Franconian food at a good price...and with a smile. (€8-17 main courses, €12-15 three-course daily specials)

Alter Keller – is a modest, tourist friendly restaurant with an extremely characteristic interior and out door table on a peaceful square just a couple blooks off Market Square. The menu has German classics at reasonable prices – Spatzke, schnitzel, trot and roasts – as well as steak (€8-14 main dishes, steaks higher but reasonable)

BIERGARTENS – can be great fun, but they’re open only when the weather is balmy.

Unter den Linden – 20 minute hike in the valley along the river. A family-friendly, slightly bohemian Biergarten, self service food and good beer. Take a sweater – it’s cooler in the valley.

Gasthof Rodertor – just outside the wall through the Rodertor, runs a biergarten that’s popular with the locals. Good for pizza, classic beer garden fare, and good beer. Their passion is otatoes – the menu is dedicated to spud cuisine.