INTRODUCTION
Welcome to this special part of the world, St Helena Bay – also known as “Die Agterbaai” – which is one of the world’s prime fishing centres. Fed by the nutrient-rich Benguela Current, the waters provide the livelihood for its coastal inhabitants. The main harbour at SandyPoint bustles with activity and shipbuilders and fishermen rub shoulders as they go about their daily work. The fisherfolk haul in thetrek nets to harvest the day’s catch and the women’s sleight of hand as they vlek the haul is a marvel to behold. Their cultural heritage is unique and the quaint tongue of the locals will bring a smile to the face of those who stop to savour their vernacular. When in production – and by prior arrangement – visitors can join a tour of a fishing factory or watch the trek nets being repaired.
HISTORY
During the 15th century navigators seeking the route to the East explored the shoreline in search of freshwater, one being Vasco da Gama who landed here on 7 November 1497. A granite monument markingthe landing has been erected next to the beach at Stompneusbaai. Visit the Vasco da Gama Nautical Museum in ShelleyPoint to view replica artifacts of those adventurous years. The Britannia lies buried beneath the waters of the so-named bay and the wrecks of many other old sailing ships offer up a challenge to the underwater diver. In more recent times the hillside caves of BritannicaHeights hid escaping British soldiers during the Anglo-Boer War. And did you know that our own Madiba was escorted on asecret outing to the West Coast while still in prison?
DO’S AND DON’TS
As in most coastlines around South Africa, vehicles are not permitted on the beaches. Visitors are asked to remember that it’s not only wildlife that can suffer: vehicles driven on beaches pose a threat to children who innocently play on the sands. While the use of other marine craft is allowed, jet skis are banned in BritanniaBay in deference to the many cetaceans that visit these waters. Other rules that apply include the need fora permit to collect white and black mussels, as well as rock lobster. In fact, any harvesting/fishing requires a permit and there are limitations on how many, what size and when so do check with the local Marine andCoastal Management (MCM) officials or in the most up to date Marine Recreational Activity booklet distributedby Dept. of Environmental Affairs & Tourism (“DEAT”). Permits can be purchased at the local SAP office or the two postal agencies at St HelenaBay andStompneusbaai.
CLEAN WATER FOR ALL
The Constitution of the Republic of South Africa decrees that everyone has the right, inter alia, to clean water. With this in mind, an organisation called the St Helena Bay Water Quality Trust was formed which body acts as a facilitator between the Dept. of Water Affairs & Forestry (“DWAF”) and the fishing and alliedindustry and whose role it is to monitor the quality of the waters from Dwarskersbos to Cape St Martin. Their aim is not one of policing but rather working with all parties that have an impact on the sea and shoreline and wehope in the near future to be able to say that the waters of our bay are clean. When it is deemed unsafe to swim or collect shellfish, the local municipality erects warning boards and visitors are asked to heed these signs inthe interests of their health.
FAUNA, FLORA AND AVIFAUNA
We care about our animals and visitors should drive with caution, especially after dark, which is a vulnerabletime for owls and other nocturnal birdlife, and we ask you please to watch out for wildlife alongthe roadside and given that birding is the world’s fastest growing pastime, we are sitting on a gold minein terms of eco-tourism. It has the potential to be a great money-spinner and birders will pay big bucksjust to tick off another“lifer” on their list – and here in St HelenaBay there are numerous species to be found. Professor Phil Hockey says, “The Vredenburg peninsula (Vredenburg-Paternoster-St Helena Bay-Velddrif) drive is a good one”.
Being at the southernmost point of the migratory route from Europe and the Steppes of Russia makes the West Coast a must in the birder’s calendar. The diversity of vegetation and many lagoons, marshes and river estuaries support huge migrant Palaerctic populations. Over 250 species of birds have been recorded - some 65 of which are seabirds, including flamingos, a variety of duck species and the striking African Black Oystercatcher that breeds both onshore and on the offshore islands and is threatened bypredation of its natural home – the pristine beaches where it lays its eggs.
The West Coast is known internationally as a wader's hotspot that peaks between November and March when visiting migrants appear on these shores. Some of the more sought after species include Red-necked Phalaropes, Common Redshanks, White-rumped Sandpipers and Black-tailed Godwits.
This area is home to many resident and endemicspecies: CapeClapper and CapeLong-billed Larks, Karoo Scrub-robin, Capped Wheatear to name but a few and is a rewarding birding experience all year round.
From Rietvlei at Milnerton, headquarters of Sanccob where injured seabirds are rehabilitated and released,to BirdIsland at Lambert’s Bay, birdwatching can be both fun and fulfilling. Recently launched, the Flamingo Birding Route embraces Intaka Island at Century City on the perimeter of Cape Town northto the Olifantsrivier mouth and estuary, inland to Vanrhynsdorp and then meandering south via Citrusdal to Malmesbury. A user-friendly checklist is available to assist birders to tick off their ‘lifers’ and the detailed map makes traversing this terrain in search of an elusive species that much simpler.
Besides the nature reserves, birders should visit the hides at the West CoastFossilPark and the golf clubin Vredenburg. Also highly recommended is Rocher Pan Nature Reserve and Verlorenvlei furthernorth – another ‘hotspot’ – with its roost of terns. The mountainous backdrop is home to Verreaux’s Eagle and the strandveldvegetation supports birds such as Cape Penduline-Tit, Southern Black Korhaan and the Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler. On BritannicaHeights at St HelenaBay four of the lark species can be seen.
Many of the larger species can be seen from the comfort of the car, in particular the Black Harrier - whosehome is the West CoastNational Park that lies parallel to the R27 - the Lanner and PeregrineFalcons and theBooted Eagle.
Alternatively, drive 25km north of Velddrif through Dwarskersbos to Rocher Pan Nature Reserve, a wild coastal strip based around a seasonal vlei (or pan) – a wonderful place to see Great White Pelicans and LesserFlamingos, which are all threatened species – but you wouldn’t think so! They spend muchtime feeding here, flying north to Botswana and Namibia to breed. From the pristine beaches you’ll also see seasonal whales and dolphins. Entry fee is minimal and the reserve is open daily from 7am till dusk.
For further informationtelephone 022-9521727 / 931 2900. Still well within a day’s trip is Verlorenvlei. An IBA RAMSAR site, this 22km permanent fresh water lake lies inland from the coastal town of Elandsbaaiand isnot to be missed, especially after good winter rains. There are 12 maps covering the area to help you get to the best bird spots.
Whatever your needs in the avifaunal field, the West Coast offers you the opportunity to list a ‘lifer”.
MARVELLING AT OUR MARINE MAMMALS
We on the West Coast are privileged to see a number of different species of cetaceans (dolphins and whales) in our nutrient-rich waters, fed by the Benguela current, among them southern right whales, humpback whales, Bryde’s whales, common dolphins, killer whales, Heaviside’s dolphins and dusky dolphins. There have been reported sightings of Arnoux’s beaked whales, but occasions are rare. You may well be one of the fortunate visitors to the West Coast who can watch whales doing what whales are supposed to do (other than make Homo sapiens have a nice warm feeling!).
The following descriptions are taken from articles published by courtesy of Dolphin Action and Protection Group’s (DAPG) Dolphin Whale Watch and edited by Meredith Thornton of the University of Pretoria’s Mammal Research Institute (“MRI”). They include information on strandings garnered from Whales and Dolphins of the Southern African Subregion by Dr Peter Best, Extraordinary Professor at the MRI. In particular I would like to thank Meredith, who has been an inspiration to me personally. Her patience in reading through the article (over and over again so that I got it right) is highly appreciated.
Bryde’s Whale was named after a Norwegian businessman, Johan Bryde (pronounced “brew-der”), who was one of the financiers of the SA Whaling Company land station at Durban in 1908 and later expanded the company’s operations to Donkergat, Saldanha, in 1909. It was in 1912 that he financed the first scientific investigation of whales in Southern African waters which showed that a local whale species, previously described from a skeleton found in Burma in 1878 and named B. edeni (in honour of Sir Ashley Eden, Chief Commissioner of Burma at that time), was in fact a new species. Previously, Bryde’s whales had been confused with sei whales, whose external features they closely resemble.
Distribution of this species is worldwide in temperate and sub-tropical warm waters between 40°N and 40°S. Off South Africa, as in other areas, there appear to be two populations: one resident inshore over the continental shelf and another, which is migratory, found off the shelf edge. Whales from these two populations differ in size, scarring, baleen (horny plates growing from the palate – in their case numbering about 280 on either side of the top jaw) shape and reproductive behaviour.
They grow to an average length of 12 m and their weight averages about 12 000 kg, with a maximum of 20 000 kg. Their coastal distribution is recorded mainly between East London and Cape Point, although sightings have been made beyond but taper off after CapeColumbine in the west and Port St John’s in the east and more likely to be encountered at sea than close to shore.
Once thought to be a cold-hearted killer, the orca – as in Free Willy - or killer whale (Orcinus orca), to give it its correct name – and just to clear up any misunderstanding, it is a dolphin, not a whale! - is one of the only cetaceans that live on warm-blooded animals. Today we know that its much maligned reputation is fable not fact, thanks to the many studies and films made about their biology and to see these beautifully marked creatures in the wild is an experience that will remain with one forever.
Says Meredith, “There are three different types of killer whales: transients that are mostly mammal eaters, residents that are fish eaters and the offshore type that probably do both! We suspect that the ones occurring off our coast are the mammal eating type.” The group (pod) is cohesive and consists of the same individuals (males, females and juveniles) that travel together throughout the year and over a period of at least seven years. They are co-operative hunters and a typical pod ranges in size from single animal to about 50 animals. Found worldwide, they are more abundant in Arctic and Antarctic waters where the food source is guaranteed: fish, cephalopods and other cetaceans, seals and seabirds.
They are the super-chargers of the sea and are capable of swimming at speeds of 50 kph and can dive to depths of 250 m. Their ‘spyhopping’ (lifting the head vertically above the surface of he water) gives them a clear view of what’s around them and their ‘breaching’ (leap out of the water) and ‘lobtailing’ (slapping of their flukes on the water’s surface – a sound which carries for a considerable distance) are behaviours which may be used to communicate, navigate and herd their prey.
Songsters of the Sea
Named Megaptera novaeangliae (“big winged New Englander”) by the Yankee whalers of yore because of their enormous flippers, the male humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) are renowned for their song renditions that they deliver during the mating season.
Slow swimmers, humpbacks are well known for their spectacular breaching performances, leaping clear of the water, usually in an arching back flip and falling into the water with a resounding slap. Their distinctive fluke patterns and serrations have enabled scientists to recognise individual whales and follow their movements.
Apart from feeding on krill in Antarctic waters, humpbacks also feed on zooplankton in our coastal waters. In the Northern Hemisphere their diet stretches to copepods and other crustacean zooplankton, a variety of fish species and pteropod and cephalopod molluscs. They feed below or at the surface and employ a number of techniques to ensnare their prey: horizontal lunging (the most common feeding behaviour in South African waters), circular swimming and thrashing “flick feeding” in which the fluke is used to stun or concentrate prey. But perhaps it is their “bubblenet feeding” that’s the most intriguing of all, an action that releases a single large bubble or clouds of bubbles in spiral patterns which corral schools of zooplankton or small fish. There has, however, only been one possible report of bubblenet feeding in South African waters.
Righting the Wrong
Once considered the ‘right’ whale to catch (because of its high oil yield and its tendency to float in the water when killed), the numbers of the southern right whale (Eubalaena australis) are steadily increasing by 7% every year, although its status remains vulnerable. “The 1997 estimate for South Africa was 3100 animals, which,” says Meredith, “means that we should theoretically have more than 7000 in the SA population now!”
Easily identified by its V-shaped ‘blow’ (the humpback’s is ‘pear-shaped’) and the pale brownish callosities on the head, the right whale lack a dorsal fin. Its low frequency call – somewhat of a moan – is akin to a spiritual experience.
The southern right is indeed the most prolific of the visiting whales and whose practice it is to move to our waters mid-year to mate and calve, the females having stocked up on krill before embarking on this migration. Once the young are sufficiently strong enough, the journey reverses itself and they head back to colder waters in December. A significant number do stay longer and some (most likely juveniles) may remain all year round. They move up along the west coast in spring to feed in area between St Helena Bay and Saldanha, remaining there while food is still plentiful, before heading off down south to fatten up again (usually from January onwards).
Mass strandings
Dolphins and whales that beach singly are, in most cases, either ill, old or injured, but mass strandings are a phenomenon still to be fully understood, although scientists agree it is due to misfortune. As Dr Best writes, “It is very likely that no single cause is responsible for each and every event, and elements of some of the … hypotheses may have to act in combination to produce the circumstances necessary for a mass stranding to occur.” He adds that, “In the case of beaked whales it now seems that human intervention, in the form of mid-range sonar, may have to be added to the list of probable causes …” Corrective measures can save a threatened pod, but only Marine and Coastal Management (MCM) officials and helpers who have been specifically trained to do so should attempt to undertake this.
The West Coast has had its fair share of mass strandings, the first report being on Kommetjie beach on Christmas Eve in 1928. The BergRiver mouth was the platform for 58 false killer whales beaching themselves in 1936 where all died. Then 26 Risso’s dolphins mass stranded in the St HelenaBay area in May 1989 of which 17 were saved and nine died. Four Arnoux’s beaked whales grounded on a sandbank in St HelenaBay harbour on 7 January 1998, but were saved.
A more recent threatened mass stranding - of a large group numbering about 200 made up of false killer whales, Risso’s dolphins and Atlantic bottlenosed dolphins – took place in October 2003 at an area in St Helena Bay called Doctor Reef, a shallow corner of the bay, making it a veritable whale trap, 81 false killer whales having mass stranded here in 1981. It took MCM officials 36 hours to herd the pod out to sea to safety, thus averting another disaster.
In February 2007 two Risso’s dolphins were rescued in Stompneusbaai and returned safely to the open ocean by MCM inspectors.
Do’s and don’ts
Report any strandings to the nearest Fisheries Control Officer who will take control of the situation in consultation with experts, failing which one of the following:
Michael Meyer021-4023911 a/h 021-7902675
Meredith Thornton021-4813854 / 082 746 5579
Nan Rice021-7825845 a/h 021-7825845