Buenos Aires, Argentina
By: Anna McMurray, fall 2015
Introduction
When I chose Buenos Aires, I didn’t know much about it. I knew I wanted to go somewhere Spanish-speaking so that I could improve my language skills, but my checklist pretty much ended there. I eventually decided on Argentina because I thought it would be a very different experience than the typical European study abroad experience and I was not interested in traveling to a new country every weekend, opting instead to engage more deeply with my host community. After doing some research and talking to other people that had also studied abroad in Buenos Aires, I was confident in my choice. Looking back on my 4 months, I’m still just as happy with my decision.
I arrived in Buenos Aires at the end of July, the middle of their winter. It was cold and rainy, but with temperatures in the 60s. I began taking classes at the IES Abroad center, located in the heart of one of the busiest neighborhoods in the city, as well as the Catholic University of Buenos Aires. IES gave us many opportunities to engage in the community and travel to places all over the country with organized and educational trips. I met amazing people from both the United States and Argentina who I will keep in touch with for a long time. The people I met, the memories I made, and the language skills I acquired all helped significantly shape my experience abroad into some of the best 4 months of my life.
Housing
IES offers two options for housing in Buenos Aires. The first and by far most popular among the other students on my program was the homestay. Before getting matched with a household, everyone fills out a form to help best fit each student based on items such as dietary restrictions, desired proximity to the IES center, and whether or not you were okay with having kids in the house. I was paired with a family composed of a young mother and father and their three young sons, ages 4, 9, and 11, as well as their live-in housekeeper. They gave me breakfast every day and dinner Monday-Friday. Although the apartment was about a 40 minute commute to the IES center by bus, I loved my homestay. The apartment was in a very desirable neighborhood close to many shops, parks, and restaurants. Plus, I got very good at navigating the infamously challenging Buenos Aires bus system. My host family was extremely accepting and friendly and treated me like one of their own kids, bringing me along on weekend trips and taking me to the kids’ sporting events. They proved to be a huge highlight of my abroad experience as a whole.
The other option for student housing was the dorm-style apartment building. Since they had strict rules about who could enter, I never saw it from the inside, but it seemed like a pretty typical dorm kind of building. Students who lived here liked the freedom of living without adult guardians. They also enjoyed meeting other students from all around the world because it was an international housing center. The dorms were farther from the IES center than most homestays, so students took the bus to class. Included in both homestays and dorms were some but not all meals during the week.
Weekend trip Host family & real family dinner
Finances
The Argentine peso has been in steady decline for a while now, making the dollar stronger and stronger. This was a big bonus for me and the other American students on my program because it was relatively cheap to live in Buenos Aires and even cheaper in other parts of Argentina when we traveled. Many people brought cash (about $1,000) and then exchanged it there for a much better rate. While it is clearly a little risky to carry that much cash while traveling, the rate that you can get at cuevas or unofficial exchange locations is much more favorable than the official rate. $1,000 US dollars was a little bit on the low side, especially for students who traveled more (buses are cheaper when you pay with cash). An average meal in Buenos Aires would cost around 120 pesos, the equivalent of about $11 depending on the exchange rate you get.
Another option for getting pesos was to use a money transfer service called Xoom. Through Xoom, you can just place an order on their website for the amount of money you want and then pick it up at a specified location the next day. The service simply withdraws from a checking account and pickup is secure, as they always check a passport before handing over the money. Also, Xoom offered a better exchange rate than the official rate making it a desirable option.
Academics
IES offered a wide variety of classes, many of which fulfill some kind of Santa Clara CORE credit. Additionally, there are also options for various majors and minors. There are classes in both English and Spanish, though all students are required to take a Spanish grammar and language class that they are placed in based on proficiency level. There is also the option to take classes at the local university, but only if students have a proficient level of Spanish.
IES is very flexible with their classes and allow students to choose from a wide selection, although most people ended up taking whichever classes counted at their home universities. Individual class schedules depended on the specific classes each person took, but there were classes at various times throughout the day with the earliest one starting at 9:00am and the latest one ending at 6:00pm. Many classes took frequent field trips that allowed us to see in real life what he had learned in the classroom. These were a great way to solidify and animate what we read or discussed in class.
Another option was to take classes offered at the local universities. Students could choose from a vast list of more specialized classes, such as psychology or business classes that were not offered at IES. In order to be admitted into one of these classes, students had to submit forms and pass an entrance exam. Only a handful of students chose to take additional classes at local universities. However, everyone in the IES program was required to take one class at UCA, the local Catholic university. This course focused on Argentine Culture and Identity and was taught in English. The class only met 5 times over the semester, and each time we had a different professor. This class allowed us to get a unique opportunity to see how a real university in another country operates. For example, grades are done on a 10 point scale, with a 10 being equivalent to an A+. Also, it was nice to be in a university environment, a change of pace from the IES center.
Student Life
I was very impressed with IES as a program and how much they do for students. They arrange many activities for students to get acquainted with the city and become more comfortable. They took us on tours of popular areas if the city and gave us bus cards. IES also planned activities that we wouldn't have known about if not for them. For example, on a Saturday, they took us to a typical Argentine ranch house where we ate barbeque, participated in traditional Argentine dance and live music, and watched a horse show. The IES center is three floors of an office building located in the heart of the city. It was very easy to get to either by walking or taking a bus or subway.
The local university, UCA, had a typical “college” feel. There were several on-campus cafes and many students would hang out or do homework outside along the river when it was nice out. UCA is a pretty active campus, both socially and politically, and always seemed to have some kind of event happening. Many students in IES joined fútbol leagues so that they could meet other students at UCA and from Argentina. Additionally, UCA students seemed to be quite involved with on-campus events and with their campus community.
Engagement
IES offered two main opportunities for engagement, both through classes and then one other one time engagement opportunity. One weekend, students had the opportunity to do a build through a program called Techo. Similar to Habitat for Humanity, students could go out and actually help build a house for two days. For more consistent engagement students could opt to sign up for an engagement class. First, the internship seminar, which was a biweekly seminar class plus a weekly internship placement. Students could choose from a wide variety of options of where to be placed. Every week for a few hours, they would go to their placement and fulfill whatever duties were asked of them.
The other option was the service learning class which was the same format as the internship but with a more service-based approach. Students could choose from several different NGOs and then would volunteer with them weekly. I chose to volunteer with Pilares, a nonprofit organization in the slums that teaches mothers of young children basic life skills to raise healthy kids with the limited resources they have. Every Wednesday, I would take the bus for almost an hour to the street corner where I met the other volunteers to walk into the villa together. The other volunteers and I would entertain the kids while their mothers participated in classes run by the organization. I really got to know the mothers, the other volunteers, and the children and began to form bonds with them. My time at Pilares was one of the highlights of my abroad experience because I got to interact with and meet people in a place that I would have never been exposed to otherwise.
Religion
Argentina is a strongly Catholic country, which is visible in many aspects of day to day life. One of the first days riding to school on the bus, I noticed that nearly everyone on the bus would do the cross motion to themselves whenever we passed a church. Additionally, the beloved Pope Francis is from Buenos Aires, further increasing Argentine’s desire to express and be proud of their faith. However, these Catholic values are present, but not imposing. There were many Jewish kids on my program and they had no trouble finding temples to go to for services. Although there is not very much religious diversity in Buenos Aires, the people are generally accepting of various religious backgrounds.
Race & Ethnicity
Argentines, especially in Buenos Aires, are not particularly politically correct when it comes to race and ethnicity. The people of Buenos Aires are, in general, much lighter-skinned than people in other regions of Argentina and South America. Many are of recent European descent and therefore identify more strongly with Europeans than other South American countries. They can be very blunt and straightforward about race, even to a point that would considered rude in the United States. It is totally normal and acceptable in Argentina to identify people based on their race or ethnicity. For example, referring to a Chinese person as “chino” is very common and even considered endearing! So, while in Buenos Aires, it’s important to remember that it is an entirely different culture with different rules and social norms, but Americans may be surprised by the comments that may be made regarding appearance, especially based on race and ethnicity.
Gender & Sexuality
There were definite and immediately noticeable differences between the experiences of men and women in Buenos Aires. Overall, the men in Buenos Aires are much more forward in pursuing women. As a woman, walking alone at night, I was certainly noticed. I had to get used to men blatantly stopping and staring at me as I walked past on the street. The cat-calling in Buenos Aires was much more forward and aggressive than anything I’ve experienced in The States. On the first day during orientation, one of our female IES staff members gave us a spiel about being a woman in Buenos Aires. As a young and attractive woman, she said she takes these cat calls as compliments and holds her head a little higher after getting told she looks good. This shocked me as well as most of my female classmates. This was one of the first cultural differences I noticed. Though catcalling was uncomfortable and at times intimidating, the key is to be alert and look like you know where you’re going and there shouldn’t be any problems.
The people of Argentina are not shy to embrace their sexuality. Overall, it’s a very passionate and open country. It was the first country in Latin America to legalize gay marriage back in 2012 and is very accepting of all kinds of sexualities. There are many, many gay clubs and there is a huge gay pride parade held in the spring.
Socio-Economic
There are definitely noticeable wealth disparities in Buenos Aires and even more so in Argentina as a whole. The first week or so I hardly noticed because we spent most of our time in the nicer neighborhoods of the city where the homestays, dorms, and IES center are. However, when we took a field trip outside of the city, we were all shocked to see the villas, or slums, that exist right outside of one of the most affluent and nice neighborhoods. These slums line the city and are a place where extremely destitute people live. They often do not have running water or electricity and are unsafe and have high rates of drug use. This was a stark contrast to the upper class areas we were used to seeing.
Poverty is also very widespread in Argentina as a whole. When we took a trip to the north, the economic trouble was evident. Many people live in poverty without proper nutrition and in run-down houses. This is a problem that is very apparent and is always an issue that politicians aim to address.
Leisure
Buenos Aires is a city that always has something interesting and new happening. The main neighborhoods with the most shops and attractions are Belgrano, Palermo, Recoleta, and San Telmo. I loved visiting the MALBA, the Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art. It had a diverse collection of older works as well as more current artists. In the warmer months, the parks in Buenos Aires are something that are not to be missed. On a weekend, people will go with family or friends and sit in the park for hours, chatting, playing sports, and sipping on mate (a South American tea).
Soccer (fútbol) and polo are both huge in Argentina. Buenos Aires has several places to go and watch a match. In Palermo, there are many polo fields. There are also several soccer stadiums of major teams. Tickets can be tricky though, so it’s best to go with someone from Buenos Aires who knows what they’re doing.
One of many parksArgentina vs. Brasil
Shopping
Buenos Aires offers a variety of shopping experiences. Depending on what you’re looking for, there are different areas that have various kinds of shops. San Telmo is known for its huge Sunday market that takes up miles of the street. There, you’ll find all kinds of handmade goods and souvenirs. This is a great place to go when looking for authentic gifts. The prices at the San Telmo market also can’t be beat. In Recoleta, there are more the more mainstream stores that would be similar to the U.S. equivalent of a Zara or Forever 21. There are also many malls in Recoleta, primarily along Avenida Santa Fe. Palmero offers a more upscale shopping experience. The shops in this area are all more expensive but the atmosphere is more chic and pleasant. There are cobblestone streets lined with trendy stores where hip, young Argentines shop.
As far as grocery shopping or shopping for food, there are fairly well-stocked markets all over the city. These grocery stores have most of the typical items you’d find in any US grocery store (crackers, meat, yogurt, milk, etc.), but one big difference is that there are far fewer options than US grocery stores. In the US, we are used to seeing 30 or more different varieties of cereal on the shelves, but in Buenos Aires there would be maybe 5 or 6. Also, they don’t have many of the same big brands that we are used to seeing on shelves in the US. There are also little markets and stands on nearly every block that sell fresh and surprisingly cheap produce.
Overall Impact
Studying abroad is truly what you make of it. If you go in with the intentions of learning about a new culture and participating in it fully, you will be much more likely to come out with deeper insights and understandings both about yourself and your home culture as a whole. There are times where you will be uncomfortable or in a new situation that you don’t know how to handle, but these turn out to be the integral moments that teach you a lot and help to shape your abroad experience as a whole.