Birding in East Sikkim – A Tour Report
East Sikkim- Gangtok, Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary- Tsomgo, Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary
Tour Leader: ChewangRinchen Bonpo
E-mail:
Guest Birders: Mr. AmitTharukta& his wife
E-mail:
Dated:25th June to 28th June 2009
Introduction
Sikkim the second smallest state of India with an area of 7,096 sq.km.and with the least population among all the states of India.Located between the two Himalayan countries of Nepal in the west and the Kingdom of Bhutan in the East,Sikkim is one of the star point for the of the Indo-Malayan type species with most of them endemic to the Eastern Himalayas.
The Birdlife of Sikkim is estimated to be of 550 species with most of the species resembling the Kingdom of Bhutan. Thus if one want to come for a Bird-watching Holiday with reasonable expenses and interest in the Eastern Himalayan species combined with the lovely view of the world’s third highest mountain then Sikkim along with the forests of Darjeeling Hills offers you the best choice with many good important Birdingareas and a minimum of 200 Species in a span of one tour.
Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary: Kyongnosla andTsomgo region lies in East Sikkim.As the name suggestsit is an Alpine forest with dominant species like the Rhododendrons and Junipers and small shrubs making it a good habitat for game birds like the Blood Pheasant , Himalayan Monal ( Dec to May) followed by many good high altitude species like the Fire-tailed Sunbirds. The Bamboo forest on the way to Tsomgo is one of the favourite sites for many good bambooshabituating species like Parrotbills, Laughing Thrushes etc.
Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary: The sanctuary is situated on the hills opposite to Gangtok.The highest point of this sanctuary is Tinjurey, which is one of thebetter places for Birdwatching.The Loghut accommodation within the sanctuary makes bird watching more worthwhile compared to other places. The temperate forests of Oak, Chestnut,and Bamboo with small shrubs of ferns are an ideal habitat for Babblers and Wren Babblers.
Detailed Tour Report
Day 1- 25th June 09
As soon as arriving in Gangtok at noon Amitwas anxious and impatientfor photographing birdswith his powerful 500mmlens so we headed to the National Highway between GaneshTok and Tashi view point after a few meters from GaneshTok westarted our walk on the Highway where we came across a mixed flock of birds which we managed get good shots of some of the species like theGreen Crowned Warbler, Blue-winged Minla, Red-tailed Minla and Red-billed Leiothrix.
As we walked just a few meters we came across a pair of Russet Sparrowsof which Amit could capture the male. After the flock passed on we carried on walking towards Bulbulay as the place seemed to have lessertraffic.As we entered the Park,Amit encountered a Red-headed Laughingthrush perched on a stone sunning itself but could not capture it in his camera.However, we were not as disappointed as we were sure we would encounter it again. As we walked a few meters we came across the sharp-pitcheddual note singing of a Strong-footed Bush Warbler [Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler] which took us a couple of minutes to capture it as like other bush warblers it is also a very restless bird.We did manage to get a very good picture of the species singing in a bamboo grove. As we reached near a gully we could hear a flock coming towards us and we could get good shots of Rufous–capped Babblers in the flock.
Day 2- 26th June 09:After a very good start on the first day, we had great expectations for sighting more star birds especially in the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.We started form Gangtok at half past five in the morning and even the weather which was not on our side with its mist and little showers could not dampen our optimism. After we crossed the 9th mile Check post we came across a Bamboo forest near a small village where we saw a flock of Red-headed Laughingthrush crossing the road.We made a stop and followed the flock.As we approached a waiting shed near the road, we took a shelter for a while form the showers.Suddenly a bird popped out from the nearby bamboo grove whichwas identified was Brown Parrotbill.This was one species we never expected to see on this tour.As usual,Amit was quick enough to capture the bird in his Camera.
We loitered around the area for sometime searching for more birds and happened to sight some birds like Dark-sided Flycatcherflying around thearea and aDark-throated Thrush perched in Electric wire about hundred meters from us of which we had no chance to photo because of the fog. other birds in that area were the Russet Bush Warbler calling from the distance and also Spotted Laughingthrush calling down from the Gully about a kilometre away.We then proceeded on our journey towards Tsomgo Lake.
After a drive of about an hour we reached a small village where we decided to have a sip of tea and wait for the weather to improve, As we were taking our sip of tea I lookedoutside the window of the restaurant and saw couple of Black-faced Laughingthrushes near the restaurant feeding on the food waste and called on Amit to take his shot.Also at a distance was a White Collared Black Bird.
The weather seemed to improveafter half an hour so we moved towards the Sanctuary. As we began our trek to the top of the sanctuary the first bird that we came across were a flock of Stripe-throated Yuhinas followed by Rufous–vented Yuhina.Thedisappointing part was that as we trekked more inside the park, the path slowly disappeared and we were completely lost among the Rododendron Shrubs.So we had to trek back and came across a little wooden bridge where Amitmanaged to photograph anOrange-gorgetedFlyctacher [Rufous-gorgeted flycatcher] and a Fire-tailed Sunbird that was flying around all over the place. On reaching the entry gate we encountered two White-capped River chats [WhiteCapped Water Redstarts].After the trek we drove towards the lake and came across a Grey-backed Shrike perchedon an electric wire.As we reached the lake wescanned the lake for any interesting water birds.Despite the place being a rush of traffic of touristsand Yakherders,Amitsighted aDark-breasted Rosefinch on one side of the lake.
After the visit to thelake we decided to head back towards Gangtok butwere stuck up for couple of hours due to the road construction. On our way back we sighted a flock of birds passing in front of our vehicle. Amitwas able to photograph the male Gold-naped Finch meanwhile I was trying to capture theWhite-browed Shortwingwithout much success due to the place being slowly covered with fog. We also could not capture the Lesser Cuckoo that was perched on an Electric wirea few meters from us.
Though we were hungry we forgot all about lunch as soon as we reached theParrotbillBamboo forest where Amitcaptured very good shot of the Red Headed Laughing Thrush followed by a Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler.
We had a late lunch atTashi view point and decidedto seek birds in North Sikkim highway as it has a
very good Bamboo mixed forest.We soon encountered a flock of Green-tailed Sunbirds, Black-throated Sunbirds, Green-backed Titsfollowed by a Pygmy Wren Babbler and a Slaty-bellied Tesia. After the flock passed on we carried on our walk for half an hour and came across a flock of StriatedLaughing Thrushes.
Day 3-27th June 09
The day started with a drive towards Pangthang to enter the Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary. We reached the entry point towards the sanctuary at about seven in the morning.
The first bird of the day was a White-tailed Nuthatch just by the side of the road. As we trekked few meters inside from the entry point we heard a flock of Grey-sided Laughingthrushesmoving inside a thick shrubbut could not capture them on camera. As soon as we entered the forest there was mixed flock of birds all around us.Some of the species that we managed to take photos ofwherethe Indian blue Robin,Pygmy Blue Flycatcher(both Male and Female) anda Rusty Fronted Barwing. A couple of White-tailed Blue Robins[White-tailed Robin] kept coming near us but was too quick for the camera.
After the entertaining flock passed on we walked a further few meters where we heard the star bird of the tour
*Rufous-throated Wren Babbler.I thought of manoeuvring it in the open area so we could photograph it. We worked very hard to capture the bird by sitting motionless for about fifteen minutes but as usual due to the restless nature of the bird we could only get a few passable shots of it.
On our trek towards the loghut, as we were passing through an open grass field wetook a rest to enjoy the beautiful environment of the forest and suddenly our attention was drawn by a flock of about ten Wedged-tailed Green Pigeon that flew towards us and one of them had very bad crash on the electric wire. Around the same time, I heard the call of a Black-throated Prinia form a nearby bush which gradually moved towards the top while Amit had his best photo shooting session of the species. After a while we saw a couple of the same species flying around the area.
We carried on our walk toward the Loghut for a rest and hot cup of tea as the weather became cold witha light drizzle.After lunch the weather seemed to improve so we decided to carry on our venture towards Chulei. The birds that we encountered on the way to Chuleiwere the Black-throated Sunbirdand a mixed flock of Yuhinas and Minlas.
As we walked a couple of kilometres into the dense forest we made sightings of a flock of Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, Ashy Drongo andthe very shy and difficult to sight Blue-fronted Blue Robin(couple of them singing near the pathway). We reached a point in the forest where the path seemed to be very narrow and difficult to walk with the tripod and the camera so we decided to walk back towards the Loghut.Ourdecision proved to very favourable as we were able to photograph thePygmy Wren Babbler just by the side of the path few meters from us and also had the opportunity to try and capture thecreepy and restless singingGrey-bellied Tesia. On our way to the Loghut we sighted a flock of Red headed Tits [Black-throated Tit]with a pair of Himalayan Green Finch [Yellow-breasted Green finches]and had an interesting wait for the amazing looking Sickle-billed or Slender-billed Scimitar Babblerbut all in vain since it kept itself well hidden inside the bushes.
Day 4- 28th June 09:
On the last day of our tour we started with the same spirit to find new birds in the area to be photographed.We decided hang around the Loghut.Soon the first bird to be sighted for the day was the Large Hawk Cuckoo singing near the hut followed with the same mixed flock of Sunbirds,Minlas and Yuhinas. As we walked quietly far away from our Loghut we had our last encounter with the Rufous-throated Wren Babbler of which we could capture one of the best photos of the bird that I have seen till date. We slowly moved down from the hut and tried our luck in the open grassland for capturing some of the thrushes.We soon sighted a pair of
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblerswho were quite cooperative but due to the fog and bad light,photographing them became more and more difficult for Amit.After a good morning’s sighting we headed for our destination after our breakfast.
The whole tour was one of the most satisfying tours for me as a bird guide in Sikkim in my whole of six years’ birding experience. We could make sightings of more than 50 different species of birds within the three and half days that too in the month where most of the Birds are hard to see’and some of them very prized ones too. I am immensely pleased with the variety on offer and this spells volumes of the prospects of birding in Sikkim within the proximity of Gangtok.
SYSTEMATIC LIST
Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).
ACCIPITRIDAE
1.Black Eagle Ictinaetusmalayensis: Observed in Fambonglho near the Log hut.
PHASIANIDAE
2.Common Hill-partridge Arborophilatorqueola (H): Heard several at Fambonglho WLS
COLUMBIDAE
3.Oriental Turtle -Dove Streptopeliaorientalis: Common almost all the places visited.
4.Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygiaunchall: About a Dozen flying around in Fambonglho WLS
5.Wedge-tailed Green-pigeon Treronapicauda: About a dozen flying and singing in Fambonglho WLS
CUCULIDAE
6.Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyxsparverioides: Commonly heard in Fambonglho but one seen very well near the Log hut.
7.Lesser Cuckoo Cuculuspoliocephalus: Commonly heard all over the tour seen twice well in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary & Fambonglho WLS.
APODIDAE
8.Pacific Swift (Fork-tailed S) Apuspacificus: Seen every day of the tour flying around the sky.
CAPITONIDAE
9.Great Barbet Megalaimavirens: Heard several in Fambonglho WLS
HIRUNDINIDAE
10.Nepal House-martin Delichonnipalense: About two birds seen in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
MOTACILLIDAE
11.Grey Wagtail Motacillacinerea: One seen near by the roadside in Kyongnosla Village.
CAMPEPHAGIDAE
12.Long-tailed MinivetPericrocotusethologus: Scattered sightings in Bulbuly and Fambonglho WLS.
RHIPIDURIDAE
13.White-throated Fantail Rhipiduraalbicollis: Common in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS.
LANIIDAE
14.Grey-backed Shrike Laniustephronotus: A total of 2 seen on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
CINCLIDAE
15.Brown Dipper Cincluspallasi: One seen in the river opposite to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
TURDIDAE
16.White-collared Blackbird Turdusalbocinctus: Relatively common in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
17.Grey-winged Blackbird Turdusboulboul: Two birds seen near office of Block officer In Fambonglho WLS
18.Blue Whistling-thrush Myophonuscaeruleus: Frequently encountered along the roadsides.
19.Dark-throated Thrush Turdusruficollis: Seen one on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary perched in an electric wire.
MUSCICAPIDAE
20.Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapasibirica: One individual seen very close and well near by the road on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
21.Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher (Rufous-g F) Ficedulastrophiata: One of them seen well inside Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
22.Verditer Flycatcher Eumyiasthalassina: Common throughout.
23.Large Niltava Niltavagrandis (H): A Total of 2 were heard at Bulbulay
24.Rufous-bellied NiltavaNiltavasundara: A male seen in Bulbulay on the first day
25.Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapellahodgsoni: A nesting pair in Fambonglho WLS.
26.Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapaceylonensis: Commonly seen with the mixed flock.
27.White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx Montana: (H) One heard near the roadside on our way back.
28.Indian Blue Robin : One male appeared in front of us in Fambonglho WLS
29.White-capped River-chat (W-c Water Redstart, River Chat) Chaimarrornisleucocephalus: Frequently seen in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.
30.Plumbeous Water-redstart Rhyacornisfuliginosus: Somewhat less common than the last species but seen even in SNT Secretariat in Gangtok.
31.White-tailed Blue Robin (W-t Robin) Myiomelaleucura (Seen by Tour Leader only): A couple of birds were heard singing but able to see on beautiful male along the trek to Log hut in Fambonglho WLS.
32.Blue-fronted Blue Robin (B-f Robin) Cinclidiumfrontale: We had brief views of a male crossing the trail.
33.Little ForktailEnicurusscouleri: Seen an individual by Amit in Burtuk waterfall.
TIMALIIDAE
34.Grey-sided Laughingthrush Dryonastescaerulatus: A small groups (about 5) calling in Entry gate of Fambonglho WLS.
35.Spotted Laughingthrush Ianthocinclaocellat (H): Heard on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
36.Black-faced Laughingthrush Trochalopteron affine: Seen a pair feeding on the food waste in Kyongnosla Village.
37.Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned L) Trochalopteronerythrocephalum: Regular sightings in small numbers in the forest and roadside. The subspecies involved is the distinctive nigrimentum
38.Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinusruficollis: The commonest scimitar babbler seen well on our way back from Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
39.Slender-billed Scimitar-babbler (Sickle-b S-b) Xiphirhynchussuperciliaris: This unique babbler was seen briefly in Fambonglho WLS.
40.Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepygapusilla: Commonly heard singing throughout the tour especially in a suitable habitat was seen very well twice once in Bulbuly and second in Fambonglho WLS.
41.Rufous-throated Wren-babbler Spelaeorniscaudatus: Heard many times in Fambonglho WLS were seen extremely well twice about one kilometre radius from the Log hut.
42.Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyrisruficeps : Common in Bulbay usually with mixed flock of Birds
43.Red –billed LeiothrixLeiothrixlutea : Very common in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS often with Mixed Flock.
44.Rusty-fronted BarwingActinoduraegertoni: Flocks were regularly seen in Fambonglho WLS
45.Blue-winged MinlaMinlacyanouroptera: Very commonly seen in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS
46.Bar-throated Minla (Chestnut-tailed M) Minlastrigula: Less common compared to Blue-winged seen In Fambonglho WLS only.
47.Red-tailed MinlaMinlaignotincta: Regular sightings of this boldly-marked Minla in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS.
48.Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippechrysoti (H): Heard once in Bulbulay
49.Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippecastaneceps: Seen regularly with a Flock of Minlas.
50.Rufous SibiaHetrerophasiacapistrata: Seen one in Bulbulay but heard everywhere.
51.Whiskered Yuhina Yuhinaflavicollis: Most Commonly seen in the whole tour.