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A Checklist for Selecting Camellias

Some things to consider when selecting camellias
(c) 2001-2004 Mississippi Gulf Coast Camellia Society
HomeSelection > A Checklist for Selecting Camellias

The large commercial camellia growers through their picture-on-the-label do a good job in showing the buyer what the bloom on a given camellia will look like and by examining the plant you can get a good indication of its overall vigor. This guide suggests some additional criteria for selecting camellias and gives some examples of cultivars that spectacularly meet or fail a given criteria. It also suggest a few companion plants that enjoy similar soil conditions.

Checklist

Which species? Although there are dozens of camellia species in China, Japan, and south east Asia where they originate, there are only a handful commercially available species in the United States.

Camellia japonica is the plant that most commonly comes to mind when camellias are mentioned. It is a more formal and varied plant than the sasanqua (below) having larger leaves and later blooms. In this checklist we are mostly talking about cultivars (cultivated varieties) of the Camellia japonica.

Camellia sasanqua is characterized by small leaves as well as a small, simple bloom and is widely appreciated in a hedge or naturalized setting. It is early blooming and tolerates sun and adverse soils better than the japonica. Some particularly early and late blooming varieties of sasanqua (or possibly sasanqua-japonica crosses) are sometimes classified by botanists as Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis.

Camellia reticulata is among the most glorious of the camellias, but cold hardiness problems tend to confine it to the greenhouse (and keep it out of the garden-center trade). The "retics" are, however, very popular with amateur growers, and are one of the best reasons for joining a camellia society.

Camellia sinensis is the famous tea camellia of China. (The different blends of teas result from the varied flavoring added to the camellia’s leaves.) Somewhat sasanqua-like, it’s a nice plant to have if only to show the grandchildren, and can be purchased mail order.

Other varieties of camellia are mostly used for crossing with japonicas and reticulatas in order to add a characteristic such as cold hardiness.

Healthy plant? The local nurseries do a good job in providing healthy plants. The larger home and garden centers sometimes display picked-over, ill-cared for stock. Avoid poor quality plants including those that show signs of scale, branch die back, trunk damage, or a girdling of the root by remaining too long in a nursery pot.

Note: Yellow variegation in an otherwise health green new-growth leaf, which may look like a problem, may simply indicate that the flowers on that plant will also be variegated. If in doubt about a plant, ask the nurseryman.

Named cultivar? Some of the national chains and home builder centers occasionally offer unnamed cultivars e.g., "Red Camellia Japonica," or "Pink Sasanqua." While you may save a few dollars by buying such plants, if you care about your camellias you will probably want to spend a few dollars more for a named cultivar that has known characteristics (such as bloom time, disease resistance and so forth.) Camellia Nomenclature, which is published and updated every three years by the Southern California Camellia Society, lists virtually all commercially available registered cultivars and provides basic information about each cultivar. Later this checklist will identify a number of recommended cultivars.

Bloom time. In general the sasanquas bloom in the fall. The japonicas follow blooming mostly during the winter, and finally the more exotic "retics" come out. Within the japonicas there is a wide range of bloom time. The fact that a plant is in bloom at the time you purchase it is a good, but not infallible indicator of bloom time — where a plant was grown and the quality of its care can affect bloom time. Camellia Nomenclature can alert you to expected bloom times for plants that you are unfamiliar with.

To pot or not? If you are going to leave your plants in pots, it is preferable to obtain a sasanqua or a grafted japonica cultivar ( i.e., a japonica grafted onto a sasanqua). Potted plants are more subject to root rot than landscape plants, but the sasanqua root stock is more resistant to the rot than the japonica.

Die-back resistance. Dieback is a camellia plant disease characterized by the sudden death of a branch. It is usually caused by wounds such as broken branches. Unhappily rather than killing the plant out right, the plant under goes slow decline perhaps dying years later. Some japonica cultivars that are particularly proned to dieback include: ‘Tiffany’, "Ville de Nantes’, ‘Betty Sheffield’, ‘Mathotiana’, ‘Elegans’, and ‘Tomorrow.’ While the following cultivars have shown good resistance: ‘Professor Charles S. Sargent’, ‘Gov. Mouton’, and ‘Rose Dawn.’ Some especially resistant sasanqua’s include: ‘Day Dream’, ‘Maiden’s Blush’ and ‘Apple Blossom.’

Bloom types and size. Camellia japonicas blooms are generally classified as being of one of five forms: single, semi-double, anemone, peony and formal double. It is worth considering the overall form of the bloom in placing the plant. The single japonica (and to a lesser extent semi-double) form is perhaps the most "natural looking" and along with the sasanqua the best suited in a woodland setting, while the more elaborate anemone and peony bloom forms will perhaps fit best in formal gardens and closer to the house. The formal doubles cry out to be placed where their blooms can be inspected closely. (Click here for illustrations.)

Unique blooms. Some blooms defy easy form characterization. Here are a few to look for:

‘Fircone’ — Is a semi-double which as the name suggests, the bloom opens in stages resembling a conifer cone. ‘Purple Pine Cone’ apparently has a similar bloom.

Among the semi-doubles a few plants develop pronounced "rabbit ears" in which the petal end point out, adding extra elegance to the bloom.

‘Adolfe Audusson’ blooms go through an attractive puckering stage before fully opening.

Fragrance. Scent is not something camellias blooms are usually known for and if you want a perfumed atmosphere as you walk among your camellias, your best bet perhaps is to plant as companions the sweet olive (Osmanthusfragans). There are a few japonica cultivars, however, that do sport a scent including the readily available, self-advertising ‘Scentsation.’ See Camellia Nomenclature for others including, for example, ‘High Fragrance’ and ‘Sweet Emily Kate.’ ‘Kramer’s Supreme’ is found by some to have a fragrance, but others find it hard to detect. In addition, most sasanquas also have some scent.

Flower blight resistance. Flower blight, which is characterized by an apparent rotting of the bloom while on the bush, is a fact of life with camellias. There are no known varieties that are inherently resistant, but by picking early- blooming varieties, and picking up fallen petals the disease can be controlled. In general plants which bloom prior to mid-January will avoid the blight. Along with the sasanquas and the following are some of the early blooming japonicas that put on their show before blight season: ‘Ballet Dancer’, ‘Carter’s Sunburst’, ‘Chandleri Elegans’, ‘Dawn’s Early Light’, ‘Edna Bass’, ‘Kickoff’, ‘Mrs. Charles Cobb’, ‘Nuccio’s Gem’, ‘Nuccio’s Pink Lace’, and ‘Tomorrow’ and its various sports.

Blossom fall. Collecting fallen blossoms is one way of controlling flower blight. But all blossoms are not created equal. Some sprinkle their petals over a period of time; others conveniently fall more or less in tack making cleanup much easier. The following are example of some of the worst offenders: ‘Pink Perfection’, ‘Governor Mouton’, and ‘Alba Plena.’ The following are two examples of some of the ones that are most easy to police up after blossom fall: ‘Tulip Time’, and ‘Professor Charles S. Sargent.’

Habit. Growth and branch habit (upright, open, weeping) can vary widely among the japonicas. Most typically is perhaps the strong upward habit of plants such as ‘Professor Charles S. Sargent.’ (Which seems to dominate the modest old homesteads on the backroads of the MississippiGulfCoast). Others such as ‘The Bride’ have weeping branches. Still others such as ‘Little Slam’ have a very columnar up right habit. It is worth thinking about the habit of your camellia as part of the selection process.

Leaf shape and size. Here are some interesting cultivars to look for because of their unique leaf quality. ‘Debutante’ has a saw blade like leaf margin. ‘Black Magic’ and ‘Holly Leaf’ have holly–like foliage.
If you like large healthy leaves on your camellias be sure to water well and fertilize regularly. The leaf of a well cared for camellia can be three to four times larger than a neglected plant.

Cold resistance. Since a camellia-killing cold spell is inevitable, its wise to keep a few particularly cold-hardy plants in your landscape. Dr. William Ackerman has been developing cold-tolerant cultivars (such as the ‘Winter’s’ series — ‘Winter’s Beauty’ …) as has Camellia Forest Nursery in North Carolina with its ‘April’ series — ‘April Blush’ …. Here are some of the more cold resistant of the commonly available varieties: ‘Governor Mouton’, ‘Victory White’, ‘Leucantha’, ‘Magnoliaeflora’, and ‘Paulette Goddard.’ For the reticulata grower, the following retics are somewhat cold hardy along the coast and with proper protection will grow out of doors: ‘Miss Tulare’, ‘Alaska Beauty’, ‘Dr. Clifford Park’, and ‘Valentine Day.’

Understock for grafts. Along the Gulf South the following sasanquas are preferred for use as understock for grafts. ‘Daydream’, ‘Maiden Blush,’ and ‘Kanjiro.’ Of the three ‘Kanjiro’ is the most readily found in garden centers. ‘Daydream’ and ‘Maiden Blush’ can be had as cutting or liners from friends at the camellia society. The japonica ‘Professor Charles S. Sargent’ is also recommended.

Seed production. Some japonicas are more likely to produce viable seeds under GulfCoast conditions than others. One member’s ‘Dr. Tinsely’ regularly produces a crop of seed, some of which fall in the mulch and germinate on their own. Although the odds of producing an award winning new plant from seed may be on the order of winning the lottery, its fun to see what you get from seed, and the planted seedling can always be used for grafting root stock. In general the semi-double’s are among the best seed producers.

Camellias cultivars your grandparents had. Many of the older varieties have stood the test of time and are readily available. Here are some cultivars to look for: ‘Adolfe Audusson’, ‘Donckelarii’, ‘Ville de Nantes’, ‘Gigantea’, ‘Magnolieaflora’, ‘Professor Charles S. Sargent’, ‘Prince Eugene Napoleon’, ‘Elegans’, ‘Alba Plena’, ‘Herme’, ‘Governor Mouton’, ‘Debutante’, and ‘Pink Perfection.’

Award winning Camellia japonicas.In addition to the old cultivars here are some of the best introductions primarily from the past 50 years: ‘Beau Harp’, ‘Joseph Pfingstl’, ‘R. L. Wheeler’, ‘Mrs. D. W. Davis’, ‘Reg Ragland’, ‘Tomorrow’, ‘Guilio Nuccio’, ‘Marie Bracey’, ‘Carter’s Sunburst’, ‘Tiffany’, ‘Grand Slam’, ‘Charlie Bettes’, ‘Julia France’, ‘Snowman’, ‘Grace Albritton’, ‘Nuccio’s Gem’, ‘Man Size’, ‘Miss Charleston’, ‘Kramer’s Supreme’, ‘Show Time’, ‘Magic City’, ‘Cherries Jubilee’, ‘Something Beautiful’, ‘Nuccio’s Jewell’, ‘Lady Laura’, ‘Lucy Stewart’, ‘Sawada’s Dream’, and ‘Moonlight Bay.’

Award winning Camellia sasanquas. ‘Chansonette’, ‘Harriette Ruster’, ‘Leslie Anne’, ‘Miss Ed’, ‘Bonanza’, ‘Star Above Star’, ‘Yuletide’, ‘Our Linda’, ‘Egao’, ‘Misty Morn’, ‘Shishi-Gashira’, ‘Rosette.’

Award winning miniature blooms: ‘Man Size’, ‘ Tammia’, ‘Little Slam’, ‘Fircone’ (and ‘Fircone Variegated’), ‘Suger Babe’, ‘Hopkins Pink’, ‘Mini Pink’, ‘Pearl’s Pet’, ‘Men’s Mini’, ‘Dryade’, ‘Cinnamon Cindy’, ‘Lemon Drop’, ‘Something Beautiful’, ‘Frances Councill’, ‘Grace Albritton’, ‘Little Michael’, ‘Tootsie’, ‘Ann Clayton’, and ‘Little Red Riding Hood.’

A popularity poll. An American Camellia Society poll of members on the east and gulf coast some years ago revealed these japonica favorites. ‘Adolphe Audusson’, ‘Betty Shefffield’, ‘Debutante’, ‘Donckelari’, ‘Drama Girl’, ‘Dr. Tinsley’, ‘Guilio Nuccio’ (one of the all time best), ‘Herme’, ‘Lady Clare’, ‘Tomorrow’, ‘Ville de Nantes’, and ‘White Empress.’ And these sasanquas were considered among the best. "Cleopatra’, ‘Hugh Evans’, ‘Jean May’, ‘Setsugekka’, ‘Sparkling Burgundy’, ‘Mine-No-Yuki’, ‘and ‘White Frills.’

Other award winners. See Camellia Nomenclature or the American Camellia Society Yearbook for updates to the above lists as well as additional awards.

Preserving locally-introduced cultivars. An interesting idea for a camellia garden or grove is a collection of locally introduced cultivars. Some examples of cultivars which were locally introduced include: ‘Pretty Thing’ — Bob Leeton of the MSGCCS. ‘Betty Sheffield Blush Supreme’ — Al LeFebvre also of the MSGCCS. ‘Elaine’s Betty’ (pictured on the cover of the 1999 Camellia Nomenclature illustrated earlier) – Jim and Elaine Smelley of Moss Point. The various Clower cultivars including ‘The Bride’ , ‘T.S. Clower Jr.’, ‘Clower White’, ‘Marianne Rankin’, and many others. Dr. L. Audioun’s ‘Amy McCay’ and ‘Melissa Anne.’ L. B. Wilson of Gulfport’s introductions include ‘Broadwater’, ‘Betty Sue’ and ‘Dorothy Brown.’ Some other introductions from the MississippiGulfCoast include ‘George O. Anderson,’ ‘Georgia Rouse’, ‘Miss Biloxi,’ ‘Bill Stewart’, and the many recent introductions of Dr. O. V. Lewis of Picayune Mississippi. Further a field, ‘Dr. Tinsley’ is a HammondLouisiana introduction that has found its way into the gardens of BuckinghamPalace.

Some of these may be hard to find, but the hunt is part of the fun. For a fuller list of locally-introduced cultivars consult Camellia Nomenclature.

Companion plants. Companion plants include plants that grow in like kind soils and environments. In the case of the camellia, its most often considered companion is the azalea. Other evergreens which fit well in a camellia hedge or grove include the Illiciums, Michelias, and Osmanthuses, and of course the hollies. If you would like a summer-blooming "camellia" consider instead the camellia’s American cousin, the Loblolly Bay (Gordonia lasianthus), or, if you live a bit north of the coast, the famous Franklin Tree (Franklinia alathamaha) both of which are closely related to the camellia. The LoblollyBay is native to our immediate area, likes wet, sunny places, grows easily and blooms throughout the summer. The famous Franklin tree wants moist well drained soil but is very difficult to grow on the coast. A less challenging plant for well drained, moist soils is the Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) a plant that is mostly native to the Northeast, but can be found as far south as Washington Parish Louisiana. The misnamed Silky Camellia (Stewartia malacodendron) sports a white flower somewhat like the LoblollyBay, but requires conditions similar to the Mountain Laurel and is both hard to find and grow. Like the Franklin Tree it will do a better a bit north of the coast. Finally the Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum) and the blueberries are easily grown and should be considered. For good examples of how companion plants can be mixed with camellias visit public gardens such as Bellingrath Gardens near Theodore Alabama.

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(c) 2002-2004 Mississippi Gulf Coast Camellia Society

From Clemson Extension

CULTIVARS AND VARIETIES

Camellia japonica varieties: Following is a list of C. japonica varieties that are old standbys. The listing specifies bloom season and flower size. The earliest types start blooming in November in the Low country, while late varieties still have flowers in May. Very large flowers are over 5 inches in diameter, large are 4 inches, medium are 3 inches, small are 2 inches or less across.

  • ‘Adolphe Audusson’- Midseason; very large; red.
  • ‘Betty Sheffield Supreme’- Late; large; red.
  • ‘Berenice Boddy’- Midseason; medium; light pink.
  • ‘Daikagura’- Early-late; large; rose-red.
  • ‘Debutante’- Early-midseason; medium-large, pink.
  • ‘Desire’ - Midseason; medium large; pale pink.
  • ‘Kramer’s Supreme’- Midseason; very large; red.
  • ‘Kumasaka’- Midseason-late; medium-large; pink.
  • ‘Lady Clare’- Midseason-late; large; dark pink; above-average cold hardiness.
  • ‘Magnoliaeflora’- Midseason; medium; pale-pink.
  • ‘Mathotiana’- Midseason-late; very large; crimson.
  • ‘Guilio Nuccio’- Midseason; very large; rose.
  • ‘Nuccio’s Gem’- Midseason; medium-large, white.
  • ‘Pink Perfection’- Early; large; pink.
  • ‘R.L. Wheeler’- Late; large; red.
  • ‘Rev. John G. Drayton’- Late; semi-double; carmine-rose.

Camellia sasanqua varieties: