ClSt 395 Iowa State University 2001
STUDY ABROAD: THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF GREECE
ITINERARY and SYLLABUS
ClSt 395 consists of supervised on-site instruction in the archaeology, monuments, and art of Greece from the Bronze Age through the Ottoman period by means of lectures, student presentations, discussion, and readings from ancient and modern sources (course pack); attention will be given to the culture of modern Greece. You will be required to give two oral presentations/reports on-site: one on a particular site, monument, political or religious institution, aspect of daily life, etc.; one on an object or class of objects in a museum and their cultural significance (the topics will be determined according to your interests and the availability of resources in English). Those students registering for 1 credit of Cl St 490 will present a third report. These reports must be fully prepared using the resources of Parks Library, before our departure for Greece. Reading assignments must be completed before the day for which they are listed. Please read syllabus information in advance of each day. Reading assignments, maps/plans to bring, our eating schedule, and indications of special clothing requirements are listed in the syllabus. Class participation includes the timely completion of assigned readings, the willingness and ability to respond in our class situations and contribute to discussion, attentiveness during lectures by the instructor and reports by your classmates, and peer evaluations of reports.
Evaluation: Site Report Draft and Bibliography 10%
Museum Report Draft and bibliography 10% An A-F grading
Oral Site Report and Handouts (in Greece) 30% method will be used.
Oral Museum Report and Handouts (in Greece) 20%
Class Participation (in Greece) 30%
(including peer evaluations and group exercises/activities)
Nights: Location/Hotel/Telephone Number: (from the U.S. you need to dial 011 first)
May 10-14 Athens/Astor Hotel (3-01) 335-1000; 16 Karageorgi Servias St., Syntagma
May 15 Delphi/Acropole Hotel (3-0265) 82-676; Vas. Pavlou & Friderikis Sts.
May 16 night on ferry to Crete (Minoan Lines)
May 17 Irakleion (Crete)/Olympic Hotel (3-081) 288-861; Plateia Kornarou
May 18-21 Agios Nikolaos (Crete)/Kronos Hotel (3-0841) 28-761, 28-762; 4 Plastira St.
May 22-24 Phira (Santorini/Thera)/Melina Hotel (3-0286) 22421
May 25-26 Nafplion/Dioscuri Hotel (3-0752) 28-550; Byron & 30th of November Sts.
May 27 Athens/Astor Hotel (3-01) 335-1000; 16 Karageorgi Servias St., Syntagma
Contacting Professor Margaret (Peggy) Mook in Greece:
I will be at the Astor Hotel in Athens on May 8.
cell phone: 011-3-097-247-1078 from the U.S. / in Greece 097-247-1078
on Crete (March 7-May 7) I can also be reached at the INSTAP Study Center:
telephone: 011-3-0842-93027 & 93029; fax: 011-3-0842-93017; e-mail:
N.B. Times listed below are subject to change, and, except for departure times, are approximations. Please listen for announcements about changes in the schedule. You must be prepared to head-out for the day at the departure times. Note the days when we change hotels; you must be packed with your luggage ready to go when we leave. Announcements about procedure will be made on the day before each change of hotel.
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THUR May 10 Arrive Athens, meet in hotel lobby at 5:30 pm for walk to Plateia Syntagma, walk through Plaka to buy snacks, group dinner in Plaka (on the program)
night in Athens, Astor Hotel
**ON THE PLANE, read Camp (1-39), Clogg (44-47) and Camp & Dinsmoor (108-125).
FRI May 11 depart 8:00 am for walk to Athenian Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, Aereopagos, Odeion of Herodes Atticus (8:30-3:00+?)
late lunch in Plaka
night in Athens, Astor Hotel
** Read Plutarch (48-69) and Rhodes (70-107); bring maps/plans Athens (A1-2) and Acropolis (C1-4)
Reports: Krystal (Temple of Athena Nike); Jen (Erechtheion); Trish (extra reportvotive korai); Danielle (extra reportTemple of Athena Nike parapet sculpture); Ryan (extra reportHerodotus and the Persian Wars)
SAT May 12 depart 8:00 am for walk toAthenian Agora and Agora Museum (8:30-1:00)
Kerameikos and Oberlander Museum (1:30-3:00) we will be on-site all day, so pack snacks;
late lunch in Monastiraki
night in Athens, Astor Hotel
** Read Thompson (126-142), Plato (143-163), Knigge (264-284) and Thucydides (285-289) ; bring maps/plans of Athens (A1-2), Athenian Agora (D1-4), and the Kerameikos (V).
Reports: Heather Z. (Greek stoas and construction techniques); Annie (the mint and Athenian coinage); Emily E. (Classical houses); Sarah (cremation burial of a warrior); Emily E. (household pottery); Trish (equipment of the lawcourts); Alicia (museum-plant remains); Sarah (Street of the Tombs)
SUN May 13 depart 8:15 am for walk to South Slope of the Acropolis
Theater of Dionysos, Choregic Monuments above theater, Asklepieion (8:30-ca.11:00)
Olympieion and Arch of Hadrian (ca.11:10-12:00)
Choregic Monument of Lysikrates (ca.12:15-12:30)
lunch in Plaka (12:30-1:30)
Roman Agora, Tower of the Winds (1:45-2:45); Library of Hadrian (ca.2:45-)
night in Athens, Astor Hotel
** Read Wycherley (164-173); bring maps/plans of Athens (A1-2), Acropolis (C1-4), Choregic Monuments (E1-2), Library of Hadrian (F1-2), Roman Agora (G).
Reports: (Theater of Dionysos and Greek theater); Fred (Asklepieion and cult of Asklepios); Toby (ancient Greek quarries)
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MON May 14 FREE MORNING! Please eat lunch before we leave for the Museum.
depart 12:00 noon for walk to National Archaeological Museum (12:30-ca.6:30, if needed)
night in Athens, Astor Hotel
** Bring maps/plans of Athens (A1-2) and National Archaeological Museum (B1-3).
Reports: Adam (Mycenaean shaft grave finds); Emily G (extra report-Vapheio cups); Jen (Theran frescos); Emily G. (monumental Geometric vases); Heather A. (Attic red-figure pottery); Keri (white-ground lekythoi); Fred (bronze sculpture and the lost-wax technique)
TUES May 15 depart 8:30 am with coach for Delphi and Delphi Museum (ca. 3+ hour bus trip; once at Delphi we will drop off luggage, eat, spend rest of day on site, which is open until 7:30 pm)
night in Delphi, Acropole Hotel
** Read Zaidman & Pantel (223-227) and Euripides (228-263); bring plan of Delphi (U).
Report: Ryan (Naxian Sphinx); Keri (Delphi treasuries); Leah (oracle of Apollo at Delphi); Ryan (the Sacred Wars); Danielle (Pythian games)
WED May 16 8:30 am depart to load luggage and get on bus
Delphi-Marmaria/Sanctuary of Athena (9:00-9:30)
Hosios Lukas (10:15-11:15)
Livadhia for lunch, by water (12:00-2:00)
coach to Piraeus/Athens for ferry to Irakleion, Crete (Minoan Lines, depart 7:30 pm)
night on boat
THUR May 17 6:15-6:30 am arrive Irakleion, taxis to hotel
walk in town for breakfast (7:00-7:45)
Irakleion Archaeological Museum (8:00-11:00)
walking tour of Venetian Irakleion, Historical Museum of Crete (11:00-12:30)
check into hotel, lunch (12:30-2:30)
meet at Lion Fountain at 2:30 for public bus to Knossos
Knossos (3:00-5:00+)
night in Irakleion, Olympic Hotel
** Read Cocking Greek Folk Art (191-193), Cameron "Early Iron Age-Hellenstic" (174-175) and Warren (181-190); bring maps/plans of Irakleion (H) and Knossos (I1-3).
Reports: Leah (Minoan stone vessels); Val (snake goddesses and the Knossos temple repositories); Heather Z. (Linear B tablets); Annie (Marine Style pottery); Danielle (LM IIIC goddesses and cult paraphenalia); Krystal (Prinias temple sculpture); Toby (Crete under Ottoman rule); Emily G. (palace planning and architectural elements); Heather A. (lustral basins)
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FRI May 18 9:00 am depart for Nirou Khani and Mallia
lunch in Mallia (swimming time if majority are interested)
brief stop at Selinari, Agios Georgios
night in Agios Nikolaos, Kronos Hotel
** Read Cameron "Roman-Battle of Crete" (175-180) and Hood (194-197); bring maps/plans of Irakleion (H), Nirou Khani (J) and Mallia (K1-2).
SAT May 19 8:30 am depart with coach for Vasiliki (9:05-10:00)
INSTAP Study Center, Pacheia Ammos (10:10-12:00)
Gournia (12:00-1:30)
lunch and swimming at Istron (1:45-3:00)
Lato (3:45)
night in Agios Nikolaos, Kronos Hotel
** Read Rutter Early Minoan Crete (198-208), Skawran (209-214) and Davaras (215); bring plans of Gournia (L1-2), Vasiliki (M), and Lato (Q).
Report: Alicia (site-plant remains)
SUN May 20 8:30 depart with coach for Mochlos (island and coastal sites)
ca. 9:30-10:00 fishing boat to Mochlos island for a threeee hour tour! (given by Thomas Brogan, Assistant Director of the Mochlos Excavations and Director of the INSTAP Study Center for East Crete)
Coast Mochlos sites
lunch and afternoon in Mochlos
swimming, hiking, great atmosphere for relaxing and enjoying a Greek fishing village, the sea and mountains (many good tavernas too!)
return to Agios Nikolaos at a time agreed upon by the group
night in Agios Nikolaos, Kronos Hotel
** Read Rutter The Early Minoan Period: The Tombs (290-292) and Soles (293-295); bring maps/plans of Mochlos (W1-3).
N.B. The time for the boat to Mochlos may be revised, depending on when the fisherman can take us. Also, if it is windy the boat will not be able to go to Mochlos and we will switch plans for Sunday and Monday, hoping that the weather will improve and we can get to the island on Monday.
MON May 21 7:30 am depart with coach for Kavousi
pick-up trucks to Azoria (ca. 8:15-9:15)
pick-up trucks continue to Kastro (ca. 10:15-11:45)
walk down to Vronda (ca. 12:30-1:30)
walk down to Kavousi and through traditional Kavousi village (ca.1:30 -3:00+)
lunch in Pacheia Ammos
night in Agios Nikolaos, Kronos Hotel
** Read Lock "Greek Vernacular Architecture" (43-44); bring plans of Vronda (N1-2) and
Kastro (O1-2).
TUES May 22 FREE DAY. I will give suggestions for activities you can do on your own.
(Agios Nikolaos Archaeological Museum is open 8:30-3:00)
5:30 coach to Irakleion
8:00 pm boat departs for Santorini/Thera (arrives Phira 11:45 pm)
night in Phira (Santorini), Melina Hotel
WED May 23 9:00 depart for public bus to Akrotiri (ca. 9:30-11:30)
Archaeological Museum (ca. 12:00-1:00)
free afternoon
night in Phira (Santorini), Melina Hotel
** Read Rutter Akrotiri on Thera (296-299); bring maps/plans of Santorini/Thera (X) and
Akrotiri (Y).
Report: Toby (extra reportAtlantis)
THUR May 24 departure time to be announced for boat trip around caldera, sulfur springs, etc.
afternoon free to explore the island (I have suggestions, there is a black sand beach at Kamari)
free afternoon
night in Phira (Santorini), Melina Hotel
** Bring map of Santorini/Thera (X).
FRI May 25 11:50 am depart for airport, Aegean Airlines flight to Athens (flt. 353), 12:40 arrive Athens, coach to Nafplion with coach to Nafplion with stop at Corinth canal (ca. 45 minutes)
spend late afternoon and evening exploring this beautiful town and its Venetian and later architecture
night in Nafplion, Dioscuri Hotel
** Read Lock "Post-Byzantine" (40-43).
SAT May 26 8:25 am depart for walk to Nafplion Museum (8:30-9:30)
coach to Tiryns (ca. 9:35-10:45, much is blocked-off because of instability)
Mycenae (ca.11:30-4:00?)
night in Nafplion, Dioscuri Hotel
** Read Taylour (216-222); bring plans of Mycenae (S) and Tiryns (T).
Reports: Val (grave circles A & B and shaft graves); Adam (Tholos Tombs)
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SUN May 27 8:15 am depart with coach for Palamides Fortress, you may choose to walk (ca. 8:30-10:00)
stop at Acrocorinth if majority choose to do so (ca. 11:30-12:30)
coach to Athens
night in Athens, Astor Hotel
MON May 28 Depart from Athens for USA
*taxis from hotel to airport for those who are leaving