Honda S2000
Mahdavi Motorsports
Turbo Kit
Instructions
Step 1: Remove the battery and relocate it in the trunk using a battery relocation kit.
Step 2: Remove the exhaust manifold, and all necessary shields. Now is the good time to wrap all the a/c lines and coolant hoses with the protective wrap provided.
Step 4: Install the waste gate onto the manifold with the discharge facing the rear of the car. You want to do this on the bench in order to make the install easier.
Step 5: Now you can install the manifold with the waste gate attached on the motor with the factory nuts.
Step 6: Now with the turbo not installed yet, it’s a good time to install the feed line fittings needed for the turbo oil supply. You want to retap the threads with the tap provided, remember to apply grease in the channels of the tap before you use it so it catches any debris that is let out from the tapping. Install the T fitting and the line fitting applying a slight amount of Hondabond on the threads, and reinstall the factory sending unit.
Step 7: Now you can install the turbo on the manifold, don’t forget the gasket, and do not use the orange RTV glue like everyone else does. The turbo should be clocked in the correct position with some final small adjustment needed. Make sure you install all the flanges, fittings, and gaskets on the turbo before bolting it in place to save you time.
Step 8: Drain the oil, and remove the oil pan. You can skip this step depending on the tools you have, and how careful you are. You need to tap the pan for the oil drain line fitting. Make sure you use the location shown in the picture so you don’t have any restrictions and don’t hit anything important.
Once you have installed your fitting you can cut your hose to length, and install it with the hose clamps provided.
Step 9: Remove the factory map sensor, and sandwich the Blox missing link between it and the throttle body. Make sure you remove a little of the under hood lining for the clearance of the map sensor since it sits higher. If you skip this step you can end up with a MIL for the Map sensor.
Step 10: Install the FMU by removing the fuel line from the factory regulator and follow the instructions for the FMU on the routing of the fuel lines. I would install it where the throttle cable hold down bracket is located. You may have to modify the bracket slightly. Make sure you zip tie all your lines away from anything that can cut a hole in them resulting in a fire.
Step 11: Now that there is no pressure in the fuel lines, it’s a good time to install the fuel pump. Remove the spare tire, and the inside trim panels where the top sits and access the fuel pump. The fuel pump housing may have to be modified to install the pump. Make sure you don’t damage the fuel level sensor, or float.
Step 12: Relocating the air pump. You have to move the air pump to a location on the core support in order to make the intercooler and piping work. You want to take it off the factory bracket and use the provided straight bracket to install on the core support in an existing threaded hole. Use the filter provided in the kit so the air pump is still pumping clean air. Use the existing hoses and trim them to make them work. This step will avoid a check engine light, and make for a clean install.
Step 13: Now you want to install the intercooler. Position the cooler where you need it and drill your holes through the core support and install the cooler. You will also later have to drill a couple holes in the lip of the bumper in order for it to clear the bolts’ heads. Then you can reinstall the radiator cover.
You will have to cut some material out of the bottom shields in order for the plumbing to be able to be run through the car.
All the lower shields can be reused when all the plumbing is in place. As for the routing of the pipes, There are two 3” to 2.5” reducer sleeves that will be installed at each end of the intercooler. Then you will find a number in the inside of the pipes telling you where they go and in what order. C is for cold side, and H is for hot side. You’re going to start number 1 at the intercooler working your way toward the engine on both the hot and colds sides. There is one 2.75” to 2.5” reducer that will be used for the throttle body pipe going to the lower 90 degree 2.5” pipe. The 2.75” sleeve is for the actual throttle body. Make sure you install the B.O.V. before installing the last pipe, and don’t forget to apply a little grease on the O ring.
Now you can reinstall the front bumper.
Step 14: Now that you have your turbo mounted and battery relocated, you have to move the fuse block. All you do is move it from one place, down and turn clock wise 90 degrees and reinstall it, by tweaking one factory bracket, and using the other provided S bracket.
Step 15: Now you want to install the down pipe. I recommend having an exhaust shop do this step because they have to incorporate it into your exhaust. There will be cutting and welding involved. As for the waste gate dump tube, I have added a long flexable pipe so you can run it back into the exhaust if you so chose. Or you can dump it anywhere facing the ground and support it in place. I would recommend using the sleeve provided to reroute it back into the exhaust.
Step 16: Refill the motor with oil. Reconnect the battery terminals. Install the new plugs gapped at .32. And install the air intake. I have provided fittings and hose to install the breather back into the intake, or you can install a little breather filter. I recommend recirculation the air back into the intake. Last, you need to provide vacuum the BOV and the FMU. T off the factory regulator for the FMU, and use the other port for the air valve to T off for the BOV. Now you can finally crank it up and go for a ride. Make sure you use only the super unleaded gasoline.