THE
HOLOKU: A HAWAIIAN TRADITION
This exhibit trace the design evolution of the Hawaiian holoku, and in doing so, to illustrates how clothing provides a window into the study of cultural adaptation and change. As cultures intermingled in Hawai'i in the early nineteenth century, numerous changes in Hawaiian material culture occurred; the holoku is a visible representation of cultural adaptation.
Holoku, (left to right) 1890s, 1900, 1905, 1915
1890s HOLOKU (reproduction) (group photo, above, left)
This gown was made in 1949 as a replica of a holoku worn in the 1890s. The original trims and buttons were used on the reproduction garment. Fabric chosen for the reproduction garment (a burgundy figured taffeta) was similar in design to the original fabric. The leg-o-mutton sleeves were characteristic of the 1890s.
1900 HOLOKU (group photo, center)
Worn on the Parker ranch at the turn of the century, this black silk crepe holoku is characteristic of both traditional holoku and Western dress of the period. The use of bertha styled collars of figured lace and fringe with a straight silhouette is common for the first decade of the twentieth century. The wearer of this holoku is said to have belonged to the Ka’ahumanu society.
1905 HOLOKU (group photo above, center right)
This lingerie style holoku is made of cotton dimity; it is decorated with hand tatting and a yoke ruffle. Under this ruffle, on the wearer's left side, is a small watch pocket hidden in the seam. The long sleeves end in a "V" shaped cuff. In 1907, the holoku was described as the "Hawaiian modification of the European tea gown". (Holoku- Origins and Evolutions. 1907).
1915 HOLOKU (group photo above, right)
Greatly resembling the European tea gown, this holoku is made of a fine white muslin in a dobby weave. The yoke, mandarin collar, sleeves and hem are decorated with fine pin tucks. This holoku is loose fitting, with a ruffled yoke. The bodice openings may have been created to accommodate a nursing mother. Worn by Annie Akamu Kai in 1915.
1920s HOLOKU
A recent acquisition (10/3/94), this lavender holoku was extensively remodeled in the 1920s. Design details reflect Western costume of the time. This holoku is said to have been worn by Queen Emma in the late 19th century. Historical research has not substantiated this, however. Textile testing has confirmed that the fabric is rayon, which came into common use a decade after Queen Emma's death. Research into the provenience of this holoku is ongoing.
Gift of Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE DESIGN EVOLUTION
OF THE HAWAIIAN HOLOKU
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